Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 64
Likes: 3
From: PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I've got a 2000 xj sport and since summer we noticed the leaf springs (from factory) are finally starting to give. My father and I replaced the shocks this past year so that shouldn't be a worry, but I was told by another in the forums to look at getting 1.5" Old man Emu leaf spring set. However there was some discrepancy as to whether they still made the 1.5 or if the best i'd get would be the 2" kit. I'm not looking for lift, just something more durable than stock for the next number of years as it's my daily driver and my car for a long haul to college for two more years. If anyone could help me in deciding if the 2" will still be suitable or help me find somewhere to obtain the 1.5" kit and exactly what I need to get to ensure I've got the parts and I'm not missing anything or paying for more of a kit than I need, I'd be very thankful!
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
If you don't want lift why would you buy 2" lift springs?
There are a ton of OEM replacement springs around. You can buy heavier duty ones. Crown makes an HD leaf pack if I remember correctly.
There are a ton of OEM replacement springs around. You can buy heavier duty ones. Crown makes an HD leaf pack if I remember correctly.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 64
Likes: 3
From: PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Since I don't know much in terms of lifting (my family has a long line of cars but mostly body work and any family friends aren't knowledgeable with lifted cars) I wasn't sure how drastic of a difference 2" lift springs would be, I didn't mind the idea of a bit of lift as eventually, once it can no longer be my daily driver, I was going to turn it into a project car that I'm still uncertain of how I want to do it but it'd be an overhaul from the chassis up. anyways, Thank you, I'll look into the Crown leaf pack. I was only going off of OME because of the suggestion made by someone else. This being my first car I'm still learning a decent bit, especially about whether or not one brand is worthwhile over another.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: east TN Mountains
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6I
Had the SAME ISSUE WITH MY XJ
I had the same problem with my XJ it got to the point that it may or may not start at all. I threw all kinds of new parts from fuel pump to tps crank senxor new temp sensors , new plugs, wires, rotor, cap fuel; presure regulator, took it to a shop they had it fro three weeks and they couldnt figure it out. I finally replaced the distributor and that took care of the problem, runs like new 279,000 mile and will still bark a tire. the unit inside on the bottom of the distributor was bad.... no problems at all since,, ut with all the new part I wouldnt expect any...
My 97 tj 4 liter 5 speed 111k miles is getting slower and slower to start. It cranks and spins over fine, just takes forever to start. This started a year and a half ago, and now is real bad. Cranking for 5-10 seconds or longer no start. Let it sit and try again.
No difference hot or cold though it usually is a little quicker when hot. I am heading north for the winter and need this thing to work.
When it starts it runs fine, no knocks or smoke, though occasionally it will stutter on acceleration, like once a month.
No check engine codes.
Has never been submerged in water, hasn't ever been in water deeper than a foot and that was years ago. Garage kept.
I had 456 gears put in but never changed the speedo gear, not sure if that would do anything.
I have owned it over 10 years.
What I have done is below, none has helped nor made a bit of difference:
Turned key to on, then off then on again.
Changed to non ethanol gas then premium
Replaced entire fuel pump module
New Crank sensor on rear top of transmission
Checked fuel pressure many times. Goes to around 45 psi immediately, and holds it for hours.
Flushed injectors with the OTC kit using compressed air and the cleaner in the cans
Changed cap rotor plugs and wires with good stuff.
Checked for spark at the coil and plugs with the HEI tester, good spark.
No difference hot or cold though it usually is a little quicker when hot. I am heading north for the winter and need this thing to work.
When it starts it runs fine, no knocks or smoke, though occasionally it will stutter on acceleration, like once a month.
No check engine codes.
Has never been submerged in water, hasn't ever been in water deeper than a foot and that was years ago. Garage kept.
I had 456 gears put in but never changed the speedo gear, not sure if that would do anything.
I have owned it over 10 years.
What I have done is below, none has helped nor made a bit of difference:
Turned key to on, then off then on again.
Changed to non ethanol gas then premium
Replaced entire fuel pump module
New Crank sensor on rear top of transmission
Checked fuel pressure many times. Goes to around 45 psi immediately, and holds it for hours.
Flushed injectors with the OTC kit using compressed air and the cleaner in the cans
Changed cap rotor plugs and wires with good stuff.
Checked for spark at the coil and plugs with the HEI tester, good spark.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
Both of you gents need to bust out the OBD-II tools and find out what's failing.
Grounds is a good idea. I have no idea what are pertinent on a TJ but I imagine the dipstick ground is the same, and that there's something else from the battery negative to the body. Follow those.
With our OBD-II scanner see if sensors are showing the correct values. Something probably isn't reporting right. Could be something wacky like CMP or O2 sensor.
You changed the cam position sensor but not the crank position sensor? This has to be a Cherokee Forum first! Lol
What are the IAT and ECT sensors *reporting*? particularly ECT since your year still has a separate sending unit for the dash. You can also Czech them with a multimeter or try unplugging.
Grounds is a good idea. I have no idea what are pertinent on a TJ but I imagine the dipstick ground is the same, and that there's something else from the battery negative to the body. Follow those.
With our OBD-II scanner see if sensors are showing the correct values. Something probably isn't reporting right. Could be something wacky like CMP or O2 sensor.
You changed the cam position sensor but not the crank position sensor? This has to be a Cherokee Forum first! Lol
What are the IAT and ECT sensors *reporting*? particularly ECT since your year still has a separate sending unit for the dash. You can also Czech them with a multimeter or try unplugging.
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: Lansing Mi
Model: Cherokee
What rear end?
I looked at the chart with diff covers and mine looks different. It's a 91 and the book I have it looks like a Dana 35 except it has a big rubber fill plug like the Chrysler 8.25. It isn't a 8.25 because case doesn't hand below cover. I also measured u bolts they seem to be 3 1/2 between the two. I want to order lift kit but want to make sure and order the right one. Thanks in advance.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
I looked at the chart with diff covers and mine looks different. It's a 91 and the book I have it looks like a Dana 35 except it has a big rubber fill plug like the Chrysler 8.25. It isn't a 8.25 because case doesn't hand below cover. I also measured u bolts they seem to be 3 1/2 between the two. I want to order lift kit but want to make sure and order the right one. Thanks in advance.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I looked at the chart with diff covers and mine looks different. It's a 91 and the book I have it looks like a Dana 35 except it has a big rubber fill plug like the Chrysler 8.25. It isn't a 8.25 because case doesn't hand below cover. I also measured u bolts they seem to be 3 1/2 between the two. I want to order lift kit but want to make sure and order the right one. Thanks in advance.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Uwharrie
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
1998 jeep cherokee SE 4.0l 5 speed specs?
This is my first cherokee and as far as i know its all stock but i have some questions. Is it the high output motor? Is the ax-15 in it? Im pretty sure its got the chrysler 8.25 but i dont know what gears. Anyone know just by the year and model?
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
1998 jeep cherokee SE 4.0l 5 speed specs?
Your '98 is the High Output motor (which is really just a marketing name for the 4.0L when they switched electrical systems in '91). The manual trans that year was the AX-15. You'd have to look at the axle because the D35 and the 8.25 were both offered that year, unless you have Anti-lock Brakes. Gears would depend on your other options, but (I think) 4.0L/manual would have 3.07s
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; Dec 21, 2015 at 09:43 PM.