I have a 91 Laredo with command-trac transverse case. I used it tonight for the first time and the part time light stays on. Due you have to drive it awhile after disengaging to get the light off?

 

Tap the gas and let off a few times. Normal.

also, are you shifting it wile moving like it was designed to be shifted?

 

It was out when I started the Jeep this morning. And yes put in clutch to shift it in and out. Thanks

 

Not a clear answer.....

while moving you don't have to push the clutch in to go back and forth between 2 hi and 4 hi.

 

Anyone have experience installing an axle repair bearing on an 8.25 rear? Does the sleeved bearing assembly get installed the same as a separate bearing and seal?

 

I was looking for the type in the attached picture. I can't find the one with the metal braces in the middle. Maybe they don't make it anymore.

 

Yeah that's what the PermaDry (Plus) looks like. My black one had the braces.

 

My 97 tj 4 liter 5 speed 111k miles is getting slower and slower to start. It cranks and spins over fine, just takes forever to start. This started a year and a half ago, and now is real bad. Cranking for 5-10 seconds or longer no start. Let it sit and try again.

No difference hot or cold though it usually is a little quicker when hot. I am heading north for the winter and need this thing to work.

When it starts it runs fine, no knocks or smoke, though occasionally it will stutter on acceleration, like once a month.

No check engine codes.

Has never been submerged in water, hasn't ever been in water deeper than a foot and that was years ago. Garage kept.

I had 456 gears put in but never changed the speedo gear, not sure if that would do anything.

I have owned it over 10 years.

What I have done is below, none has helped nor made a bit of difference:

Turned key to on, then off then on again.
Changed to non ethanol gas then premium
Replaced entire fuel pump module
New Crank sensor on rear top of transmission
Checked fuel pressure many times. Goes to around 45 psi immediately, and holds it for hours.
Flushed injectors with the OTC kit using compressed air and the cleaner in the cans
Changed cap rotor plugs and wires with good stuff.
Checked for spark at the coil and plugs with the HEI tester, good spark.

 

Hello, folks. I have something that might be quite simple hiding right under my nose, but I'm out of ideas. Jeep Cherokee SE 4.0 1996. All 6 cylinders misfiring. Here are my codes, they don't ever seem to change, and my check engine light flashes. P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, and P0306. P0303 says catalyst damaging. Here is a list of the parts I have changed: Battery, cap & rotor (x2), cam position sensor (x2), distributor (helped going down the highway, but still misfires a lot at idle), spark plugs (Champions), spark plug wires, coil pack, fuel pump, fuel filter (x3), blew compressed air through fuel rail and fuel line from rail to filter, fuel injectors (went to 4-port), throttle position sensor, and coolant temp sensor. All parts are brand new except the TPS and coolant temp sensor. It does shift normally. When it is really acting up on the highway, the engine temp gets pretty high, but hasn't overheated yet. Thermostat is new, too. Any help at all would be EXTREMELY GREATLY appreciated as my Tacoma's transmission crapped out, so my XJ is my only way to work an hour away.

 

If you're being literal, there's a good chance you burned up your starter.

 

No the starter works fine, cranks over fast. You are right, not minutes literally but way too long.

 

If it cranks over and you have spark then the problem is either fuel pressure or air

Check fuel pressure at the rail

Try holding the pedal down while you crank it, to eliminate the IAC

 

I am getting around 45 psi at the rail, I have tried with the gas pedal down also. No difference. And the air filter is new. Stock air box.

It really has me stumped. Its been getting slower to start since last year. I only use it maybe 2 times a year, 20 days total. I last used it in August which really isn't long enough for the gas to have gone bad and I have run that gas out of it. It was slow to start then but not like now. Now, I crank it till i start to cringe knowing that I am gonna burn the starter up if I continue. Then wait and do it again.

Is there any ground I could check that may be intermittent during cranking? Once it is running it doesn't quit unless I turn it off. I use the HEI spark checker and can hear it snapping, but don't keep it on there.

 

How are poly coil spring isolators? I'm thinking my factory ones are quite worn out. I was going to go with the ZJ since they had metal inserts inside the bushings and sit at 3/4" (I think stock XJ is 5/8"). Just curious what the better alternative would be since they're about the same price.

 

Both of you gents need to bust out the OBD-II tools and find out what's failing.

Grounds is a good idea. I have no idea what are pertinent on a TJ but I imagine the dipstick ground is the same, and that there's something else from the battery negative to the body. Follow those.

With our OBD-II scanner see if sensors are showing the correct values. Something probably isn't reporting right. Could be something wacky like CMP or O2 sensor.

You changed the cam position sensor but not the crank position sensor? This has to be a Cherokee Forum first! Lol

What are the IAT and ECT sensors *reporting*? particularly ECT since your year still has a separate sending unit for the dash. You can also Czech them with a multimeter or try unplugging.