I can't see your sig on the mobile app, but removing the rear DS would allow you to drive it in the 4WD setting, leaving you with Front Wheel Drive. I did it for quite a while in my Wrangler.

Exact height depends on your lift, transmission, and axle. A front shaft is usually good to about 4-5"

 

Dammit... Now I want to know if anybody ever put a white glove on the right mirror of a Comanche just for kicks.

Then do a "Fiat/Chrysler is not my lover.. YAO! She's just a girl, who says IIII am the one... AH... the Jeep is not my son" with like a Compass or a Renegade or something.







Yes, I am normally like this. Quit staring.

Sig says: 4.0L/AW4, 3.5" lift, C8.25. Long transmission, long axle, yeah go for it. "Normal" length SYE, right? None of this super short business? (I can't remember who makes that one)

 

3.5" OME Lift, AW4, Chrysler 8.25. I'll be going up to 4 to 4.25" as soon as this Michigan weather stays consistent.

I drive quite a bit of highway miles every day, so I'd rather not drop the rear DS and drive in 4hi.

EDIT: Salad, we must have been typing at the same time. I'm gonna be getting an Advance Adapters SYE.

F'n Love Fear and Loathing!!!

 

It won't hurt a thing, and it's the same gear ratio as 2WD. It's your Jeep and your decision, but it wouldn't cause any damage if you did.

 

Hey everyone, new to the group here and I am falling down the xj rabbit hole again.


I am unfortunately looking at replacing my AW-4 in my 99 xj with 271,000 mi. I found the loose torque converter issue which was creating a huge racket in the bellhousing between 1500 and 2500 rpm. I tightened it back down and the noise improved but still had a rumble like feeling/noise from 1800-2200 rpm. I drove it for a week or so like that and the noise started to get worse again. I got underneath and found the bolts loose again. This time I did a closer inspection and found two small cracks in the flex plate as well.


It seems that this is a somewhat common issue with the xj. Wondering if anyone makes a heavy duty flexplate and if it is worth the extra dough.


I am also going to replace the transmission as I did a tranny swap when the original tranny bands got smoked 30 days after I bought it. Being strapped for cash at the time I got a used tranny for $400 but found the wiring harness was different and missing a sensor that was on mine. I went ahead with the swap as I needed to be rolling in 2 days. Everything went fine except the CEL would come on but not show a mil code in the scanner. Now in Colorado you will fail emissions if the CEL is on. Time to do it right and get a remanufactured AW-4, new flexplate, some Loctite this time, and an auxiliary tranny cooler.


I'm looking at a tranny from smartpartsauto.com. anyone have any experience with them? $1,100 plus core and shipping with a 3 year warranty seems good to me.


Thanks

 

What model year transmission did you swap in? This thread may help you save a few bucks: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970 Note specifically the part about using a pre-1998 TCU. If you have a source for a cheap junkyard TCU this might be worth a shot.

As far as the flexplate goes, I have never heard of an upgraded one. Loose bolts are far more common than the unit actually being cracked. Really, if the bolts stay tight, it should never be able to blow apart like that. MHO keeping the bolts tight should avoid the issue entirely.

I don't know if the bolts are held in with LocTite or not, perhaps someone more knowledgeable can comment.

 

Blue loctite was used in the bolts I took out so I used blue loctite when I swapped in another trans

 

Thanks, I wish I had at least taken before/after pics but it seems to be brighter.

 

If nothing else, take comfort knowing all that current isn't going through your headlight switch anymore

 

I finally broke an end link shaft at the bushing, time for end links and sway bar doughnuts. I was looking at changing to a pr@c@mp double eye setup. Is this a good direction to go with the changeover on a stock lift?

 

I took this from a jeep at the junkyard thinking I could potentially modify it a little to accomodate some light(s) in there. my XJ doesn't havea hole in the headliner, but I'm guessing the two holes for the screws should be there?

also would there be any wiring for a power source up there even without the factory option? I once read all the wiring for those kind of options is there ready to be used. if not I'd probably try using some batteries if there is enough space in there. my main concern is that I don't want to start messing with the headliner and realizing there is no mounting holes for the screws.

 

Supposedly it was from a 98 xj. After looking at the writeup you posted it seems like it is a 97 or earlier. I can't confirm as it was already pulled when I bought it. I think for the sake of comfort and sanity I will just replace it with the correct model and add a real cooler to it. I am one of those crazy people that actually replaces the tranny filter and fluid every 20,000 mi or so. Starting with a reman tranny might make this the last tranny I have to swap.

 

Do y'all think this rim is still ok to use? My friend was gonna give me 4 rims with new tires on them but one of them has this chip on it. No crack, just a chip.

 

I wouldn't air down or take it offroad, but I'd use it. I wouldn't recommend using it, but I'd ignore it myself

 

I'd use it as a spare or on a farm vehicle. Loaded with Slime