APTech,
Thanks for posting the solution. We ask have those moments from time to time, and I'm glad it was something simple

 

Quick question. I'm doing some PM and replacing the my rad and doing a system flush. I pulled the new radiator out of my old 96xj (it was used for about one month) and I am planning on putting into my newer 96xj. I have everything out and ready to be swapped however, the lower trans fitting is throwing me off.

The new rad does not have the metal elbow coming out from it. Is there a way I can remove it from the old rad and install into the new? I'm reffering to the lower trans fitting in this scenario. let me know if there are other options besides buying a new radiator that already has the fitting on it. thanks

 

Wen I bought a rad for my Wrangler from Advance Auto, the fittings were in a little bag in a corner of the box where the cardboard was folded over them. I didn't even see them until I took it back to return it.

The one I bought from CarQuest had the fittings already brazed on.

It seems to depend on brand, but they could be hiding in the box.

 

First off, 99 xj 4.0 auto

I have had problem with charging system, first began with battery gauge dropping from just about 14 to near 12.5 then dropping to 9. It would bounce between these three numbers intermittently for nearly a month and especially after driving for a few minutes. Some days this does not happen at all and no noticeable impact on radio, wipers, or blower motor operation, or even headlights. First i thought alternator, so i had it tested several ways and using different machines with all tests good, battery was also good, checked connections and good, voltmeter at battery even shows 13.86 while running. Then one day i drove to store and when i went to leave my battery did not have enough power to start it and when started it would only continue to run with the throttle pressed a little and tests on battery and alt were good again. The only other issue is a single dtc (sorry dont recall actual code #) that indicates that bank 1 sensor 2 shorted to voltage, and i inspected both the connector and wire for corrosion and/or damage that connects the O2 sensor and all seems well. Could this be related? Or just a regulator that only seems to want to work correctly when being tested?
Any info would be greatly apprciated, thanks.

 

Yup. Same with my carquest brand one. Fittings already done

 

Have you tried cleaning up all your grounds? I can't say for sure that it would fix the problem, but I guarantee it wouldn't make it worse.

 

Where are the major ones located ive only found the one beside the battery on the fender

 

There are 4 major grounds.
1) Battery to fender
2) Engine to firewall
3) Dipstick tube
4) The starter grounds itself to the trans bellhousing, and oil leaks/contamination can disrupt this.

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...und_straps.htm

 

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=245993828. Doesn't hurt to also do this at the same time too...

 

When I originally bought it the fittings were on it as well. But when I was parting out that cherokee I took the fitting off from the rad and kept the rad with the fitting still on the part out xj and so I was trying to take the fitting off of the one I'm currently replace but that 20 yr old rad had no give to it lol

But fortunately the one I bought at AZ had a lifetime warranty and the guy just swapped the rad I had from my part out xj (no fitting) with the same brand new one (with the fitting). So i have it all figured out now. Except I didn't put enough RTV on the thermostat gasket and sprung a leak

 

And here comes cruiser to recommend Indian Head Gasket Shellac instead of RTV

 

^^ now that brings back some memories. Gives me olfactory hallucinations.

 

I used that stuff on the water pump and thermostat gaskets on my '77 chevy c10 about 12 years ago when I replaced them... The truck then sat for about ten years until last week when I pulled it out and got it running. No leaks.

But yeah... that stuff reeks.

 

One of the first actions a person should do in a no start situation is turn on the lights and try to start it.

If it doesnt's start or just clicks and the lights go off when you hit the starter, 9 times out of 10 it's a bad battery connection.

You'd be amazed at how many people have bad battery connections. It may work for weeks or months, then one day.. zilch.

You may want to pull the terminals again and cover them with white electrical grease, then clamp them down tightly and cover the whole terminal with the stuff.

Then you can just about forget about it for a few years.

 

I like "Aviation Grade" Permetex..it's required by the FAA for engine overhauls
..and its still tacky after a year...


On another note: google "worlds fastest hill climb car" ...Fiat X 1/9 with Suzuki Hyabussa (650 HP) ..its unreal..