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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 04:36 PM
  #8311  
98 brutus's Avatar
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From: Randoph ohio!
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Best tranny fluid and transfer case fluid??? need to buy tomorrow don't know what my 98xj takes
Old Dec 2, 2011 | 04:42 PM
  #8312  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by 98 brutus
Best tranny fluid and transfer case fluid??? need to buy tomorrow don't know what my 98xj takes
What transmission?

AX-15 5-speed manual = 75W90 GL-4 Gear Lube (not GL-5)
AW4 automatic = Dexron/Mercon III compatible Multi-vehicle ATF (not ATF+4)
Transfer Case = Dexron/Mercon III compatible Multi-vehicle ATF
Old Dec 2, 2011 | 04:46 PM
  #8313  
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From: Randoph ohio!
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Sorry automatic
Old Dec 2, 2011 | 04:46 PM
  #8314  
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From: Randoph ohio!
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by dukie564

What transmission?

AX-15 5-speed manual = 75W90 GL-4 Gear Lube (not GL-5)
AW4 automatic = Dexron/Mercon III compatible Multi-vehicle ATF (not ATF+4)
Transfer Case = Dexron/Mercon III compatible Multi-vehicle ATF
Thanks dukie!
Old Dec 2, 2011 | 04:50 PM
  #8315  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by 98 brutus
Thanks dukie!
No problem. It's usually off to the side and looks like this

or
Old Dec 2, 2011 | 05:36 PM
  #8316  
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From: Hutchinson Ks
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by dukie564

What transmission?

AX-15 5-speed manual = 75W90 GL-4 Gear Lube (not GL-5)
AW4 automatic = Dexron/Mercon III compatible Multi-vehicle ATF (not ATF+4)
Transfer Case = Dexron/Mercon III compatible Multi-vehicle ATF
Hows come everyone says no +4 atf in the AW4? Ive been a jeep tech for 10 years and have filled more than I can count w/o any problems including my own. Just curious on the logic with this. Thanks
Old Dec 2, 2011 | 10:52 PM
  #8317  
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
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Originally Posted by bsmith97xj

Hows come everyone says no +4 atf in the AW4? Ive been a jeep tech for 10 years and have filled more than I can count w/o any problems including my own. Just curious on the logic with this. Thanks
Well from what I've heard is some transmissions friction martial is made for the ATF and the ATF+4 can fasten the life of the material. But also I see it always a good idea to stick with what the factory choose in the first place. Also I'm not sure if it's true but you arnt suppose to mix them.
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 09:41 AM
  #8318  
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From: Southern California
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Default New here and my question about 1995 Cherokee

Hi,

I have a 1995 Cherokee Country that is having a no-start condition, after it sits for a couple of days. Something is draining the battery. The alternator is good, and it has a new battery. It has 115,000 miles.

My retired neighbor started doing some testing, and pulled the fuse that controls the radio and door locks (not sure what else is on there) and so far it starts fine for the past two weeks, even after sitting a few days.

He said if I can find a wiring diagram for my Jeep that he will isolate and fix it - yay! (plus I really want my radio back)

I found this link doing a search http://www.scribd.com/doc/10078577/J...ring-diagrams-

But it doesn't say (or I can't find) if this is specifically for a 1995, and which wiring diagram would I need?

Thanks for your help!
Mary Lou
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 12:01 PM
  #8319  
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From: Vancouver, BC
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Use the knowledge base. You can pick out your specific year and find the correct wiring diagram for it.
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 12:11 PM
  #8320  
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From: Southern California
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by Bugsy
Use the knowledge base. You can pick out your specific year and find the correct wiring diagram for it.
Thank you! I just looked at that link, and unfortunately it has 1993 or 1996 - 2001, no 1995
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #8321  
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From: Vancouver, BC
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Faafil
Thank you! I just looked at that link, and unfortunately it has 1993 or 1996 - 2001, no 1995
Don't let that throw you...I have a 91 XJ and I have been using the listing for the 1993 Cherokee and it hasn't failed me yet.
I would use the 1996-2001 listing. I'm not sure what the differences are but the wiring diagrams for what you're looking for should be the same.
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 01:52 PM
  #8322  
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From: Missoula MT
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
Default Stuck

What the F*CK do you guys do when you just cant get a nut to break loose?!!

Something in my bell housing is hitting that inspection cover that covers the flex plate. Sounds like the guts of my car are ready to blow. From what I've researched, it's probably the bolts that fasten the flex plate to the torque converter loosening up and hitting that plate on the front of the housing. Simple enough, right?

I can't get the inspection plate off to save my life. The bolt right below the starter is immovable. I just basically did pullups on my ratchet for 45 minutes and it didn't so much as groan. The fastener doesn't seem to be badly corroded. No rust.

To top that off, the bolt on the other side seems to have been installed backwards when the tranny was out. I got it loose, but the bolt is too long, it hits the exhaust pipe. I can't figure out how I'm going to get it out without cutting it or the plate.

So, could this nut that's giving me trouble have been torqued good and hard with an impact wrench? Any ideas?
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #8323  
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
Default

Originally Posted by Nate Biehl
What the F*CK do you guys do when you just cant get a nut to break loose?!!

Something in my bell housing is hitting that inspection cover that covers the flex plate. Sounds like the guts of my car are ready to blow. From what I've researched, it's probably the bolts that fasten the flex plate to the torque converter loosening up and hitting that plate on the front of the housing. Simple enough, right?

I can't get the inspection plate off to save my life. The bolt right below the starter is immovable. I just basically did pullups on my ratchet for 45 minutes and it didn't so much as groan. The fastener doesn't seem to be badly corroded. No rust.

To top that off, the bolt on the other side seems to have been installed backwards when the tranny was out. I got it loose, but the bolt is too long, it hits the exhaust pipe. I can't figure out how I'm going to get it out without cutting it or the plate.

So, could this nut that's giving me trouble have been torqued good and hard with an impact wrench? Any ideas?
are you using a breaker bar on the immovable bolt? if not, try that.

as far as the bolt hitting the exhaust pipe, depending on where its at, yo may be able to take the exhaust pipe down from its hangers and move it to the side/away from the bolt enough to get at it.
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 02:15 PM
  #8324  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by LoveMy89Anya
are you using a breaker bar on the immovable bolt? if not, try that.

as far as the bolt hitting the exhaust pipe, depending on where its at, yo may be able to take the exhaust pipe down from its hangers and move it to the side/away from the bolt enough to get at it.
And to add on soak that bolt in pb blaster and first tighten the bolt to break it lose then unscrew it. It'll take some effort but it'll come
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 03:11 PM
  #8325  
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From: Missoula MT
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by LoveMy89Anya
are you using a breaker bar on the immovable bolt? if not, try that.
Thanks, this did it.

Dropped some money on a breaker bar and a new socket and got it off. I'm new to wrenching at this level, and a lot of my tools are inadequate. I knew that was the solution, I just didn't want to give in because I didn't want to spend the money. I think it solved my problem, though, so it was worth it.

I didn't have to take the other bolt out, just pivoted the plate on it. The first flex plate bolt I saw was 1/4" out, not even finger tight! Tightened it up, and the noise is gone.

Next question: Do I need to tighten those bolts on the flexplate to a certain torque, or can I just snug them up? Also, Do I put some locktite on them to keep them from working back out?



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