Upgrading braking system in my '91 to '95 booster/mc/prop valve. I called dealer to find out how much one was just in case i couldnt find one in a jy local. He asked me if my brakes were 9" or 10". My question is this: Is there really a difference in these two prop valves or are they ACTUALLY one in the same with a different manufacturing # for tracking and record keeping purposes. Any help greatly appreciated!

 

Know it's been covered before on this thread but dont want to look back through pages and pages of post to find it. So, just changed rear main seal and now need to refill with oil and get new oil filter. Want to get the best possible oil and filter for my jeep this time. What's the BEST oil and filter you guys would recommend? 89 limited----

 

So my '99 I6 4.0L Cherokee died on the road a few weeks ago...just kind of sputtered out and wouldn't restart. It would crank and crank, just no turn over. I had a shop check it out and the diagnosis came back as a bum PCM--$1000 bucks! I got one programmed from a company on line for $200 and did the 4 minute install myself...still no luck. I think I have fuel (Schroeder valve on the rail spits, but I don't have an actual pressure gauge; also I can hear the fuel pump priming when I click the key to run). The shop that diagnosed the PCM claims to have tested the Ignition Coil and CPS with no problems, but those are the only other things that I can think of that will keep an engine from getting spark...

If anyone can think of something I'm missing, I'd be very grateful for a little insight/advice. I figure CPS/ignition coil are going to be the suggestions, but was just wondering if anyone had seen these probs and can help me out. Many thanks in advance!

 

First u need to verify good blue spark, and fuel pressure with a gauge. After u determine which one is the problem, Post that up.

 

I had a similar situation a month or so ago (minus the PCM fiasco). My coil was the culprit. I tested the ohms on the coil. It was only 2.something. My understanding is anything under 5 ohms means its junk. Swapped it with a new one and was back on the road. Hope this helps.

 

^^^^

 

Anything 5w-30 for the winter is perfect. I use Mobil full syntec, only recommend if your engine is young, and a high capacity
Mobil filter. I also prefer mopar filters. Oil is essentially oil. Change I often and you won't go wrong

 

Im going to be replacing the control arm bushings in my wife's 2000 XJ. What is meant by "Pre-Load"? Do I Pre-Load (once I know what it is....lol) the control arms?

 

Advance Auto Parts has some good oil change specials right now. I bought 6 quarts Shell Penzoil high mileage 5w30 with PureOne filter for $24.99 before $7 rebate. The Platinum full synth with K&N filter was a couple bucks more.

 

are they rebuildible joints? "preload" means the joint is compressed prior to installation - Johnny Joints for example have to be compressed and a snap ring installed to they have a specific amount of pressure on the bushing. If it's a normal rubber bushing there is no preload - just press it in and bolt it up. Don't tighten it fully until the full weight of the truck is on the ground.

 

It means torque fasteners w/ weight of jeep on ground. Not unloaded. JMHO

 

Thanks guys, sorry for the simple question. The bushings are not rebuildable. Their the moog (I think) bushings, rubber.

 

I've put my ac compressor bypass pulley on and now I'm not sure what to do with one of the ac hoses. (All the freon is discharged) The one I'm talking about is the one going to the condensor in front of the radiator. Should I just cut it?

 

just remove the condenser

where did you get that bypass pulley btw?

 

Ok thanks.

Advance Auto Parts part # Dorman 34237. $47 arrived next day.