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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 04:20 PM
  #8341  
cconrad302's Avatar
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From: North Carolina
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by dukie564

neither. Oversized tires you need to do a "chalk test" to get the pressure right since they are very different. Basically involves coating the treads in chalk, driving forward a little bit, then checking the contact patch. You need to aim for a full contact patch the whole way across the tire with no high spots or cupping.

Start with a baseline pressure of 25psi and go up or down from there.
I'm not familiar with that but I've heard of it. So u see if the tread with chalk line up straight across or what?
Old Dec 4, 2011 | 04:21 PM
  #8342  
cconrad302's Avatar
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From: North Carolina
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by LoveMy89Anya
are you using a breaker bar on the immovable bolt? if not, try that.

as far as the bolt hitting the exhaust pipe, depending on where its at, yo may be able to take the exhaust pipe down from its hangers and move it to the side/away from the bolt enough to get at it.
Breaker bar or impact wrench
Old Dec 4, 2011 | 07:53 PM
  #8343  
spoons's Avatar
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From: NW NY
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by bsmith97xj
First u need to verify good blue spark, and fuel pressure with a gauge. After u determine which one is the problem, Post that up.
Thanks for the insight, I'll check those things and repost
Old Dec 4, 2011 | 07:54 PM
  #8344  
spoons's Avatar
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From: NW NY
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by jx2991
I had a similar situation a month or so ago (minus the PCM fiasco). My coil was the culprit. I tested the ohms on the coil. It was only 2.something. My understanding is anything under 5 ohms means its junk. Swapped it with a new one and was back on the road. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the input. I replaced the coil today and it didn't fix the problem, so I am going to look into other culprits. Thanks again
Old Dec 4, 2011 | 08:03 PM
  #8345  
onlyinajeep726's Avatar
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From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
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Originally Posted by spoons
So my '99 I6 4.0L Cherokee died on the road a few weeks ago...just kind of sputtered out and wouldn't restart. It would crank and crank, just no turn over. I had a shop check it out and the diagnosis came back as a bum PCM--$1000 bucks! I got one programmed from a company on line for $200 and did the 4 minute install myself...still no luck. I think I have fuel (Schroeder valve on the rail spits, but I don't have an actual pressure gauge; also I can hear the fuel pump priming when I click the key to run). The shop that diagnosed the PCM claims to have tested the Ignition Coil and CPS with no problems, but those are the only other things that I can think of that will keep an engine from getting spark...

If anyone can think of something I'm missing, I'd be very grateful for a little insight/advice. I figure CPS/ignition coil are going to be the suggestions, but was just wondering if anyone had seen these probs and can help me out. Many thanks in advance!
Did you check your fusible links? I'm not sure if '99s have them or not, but I know my '88 does. When one blew a couple years back, all my Jeep would do is wind over and over but no crank. Took 2 months of diagnosing and one accidental pull on a fusible link and my problem was solved.
Old Dec 4, 2011 | 08:09 PM
  #8346  
Zoider's Avatar
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From: Utah
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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I'm working on tracking down a power door lock electrical problem and I'm pretty sure that it's caused by not getting the full 12V to the circuit. If I want to test that the circuit is getting 12V to the fuse is it as simple as using a DMM with one probe grounded and touching to other probe to the hot side of the fuse holder with the fuse out?
Old Dec 4, 2011 | 10:47 PM
  #8347  
Jeep95's Avatar
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
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Originally Posted by spoons
So my '99 I6 4.0L Cherokee died on the road a few weeks ago...just kind of sputtered out and wouldn't restart. It would crank and crank, just no turn over. I had a shop check it out and the diagnosis came back as a bum PCM--$1000 bucks! I got one programmed from a company on line for $200 and did the 4 minute install myself...still no luck. I think I have fuel (Schroeder valve on the rail spits, but I don't have an actual pressure gauge; also I can hear the fuel pump priming when I click the key to run). The shop that diagnosed the PCM claims to have tested the Ignition Coil and CPS with no problems, but those are the only other things that I can think of that will keep an engine from getting spark...

If anyone can think of something I'm missing, I'd be very grateful for a little insight/advice. I figure CPS/ignition coil are going to be the suggestions, but was just wondering if anyone had seen these probs and can help me out. Many thanks in advance!
I would make sure the crank sensor is good. We see it a lot at our shop other places always thinks it's the PCM and if the crank sensor is bad you will not be able to connect to the PCM with a scan tool. What I would do first is make sure your crank sensor is getting voltage. It runs off of a 5 volt reference. If you don't have 5 volts then the sensor is bad. Hope this helps.
Old Dec 5, 2011 | 01:51 AM
  #8348  
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From: Massachusetts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Just sold my 95 XJ 5 speed and bought another 95 XJ with an automatic trans and less miles. The electric fan seems to be always running, especially when the defroster is on. The temp never gets to 210 degrees. If I turn off the defroster the fan will go off but only til the temp reaches about 180 or so, then it will come on again. If I shut the jeep off while the fan is running, the fan will continue to run. I have been driving around with the fan unplugged and have not had any overheating issues but it is pretty cold here in the Northeast. I noticed that the previous owner had removed the AC relay and put it in the glove box. Not sure why that was. I know the previous owner's mechanic and asked him what the deal was. He does not seem to remember doing any of that, but stated he had replaced the water pump, t-stat, and power steering pump not 6 months ago. Is there just the one temp sensor in the t-stat housing or is there another one? Any info would be great.
Old Dec 5, 2011 | 06:09 AM
  #8349  
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Tango 22
Just sold my 95 XJ 5 speed and bought another 95 XJ with an automatic trans and less miles. The electric fan seems to be always running, especially when the defroster is on. The temp never gets to 210 degrees. If I turn off the defroster the fan will go off but only til the temp reaches about 180 or so, then it will come on again. If I shut the jeep off while the fan is running, the fan will continue to run. I have been driving around with the fan unplugged and have not had any overheating issues but it is pretty cold here in the Northeast. I noticed that the previous owner had removed the AC relay and put it in the glove box. Not sure why that was. I know the previous owner's mechanic and asked him what the deal was. He does not seem to remember doing any of that, but stated he had replaced the water pump, t-stat, and power steering pump not 6 months ago. Is there just the one temp sensor in the t-stat housing or is there another one? Any info would be great.
I have a 98 auto and if any of the heat/AC is on. Its on too.
Old Dec 5, 2011 | 06:39 AM
  #8350  
onlyinajeep726's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
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Originally Posted by Tango 22
Just sold my 95 XJ 5 speed and bought another 95 XJ with an automatic trans and less miles. The electric fan seems to be always running, especially when the defroster is on. The temp never gets to 210 degrees. If I turn off the defroster the fan will go off but only til the temp reaches about 180 or so, then it will come on again. If I shut the jeep off while the fan is running, the fan will continue to run. I have been driving around with the fan unplugged and have not had any overheating issues but it is pretty cold here in the Northeast. I noticed that the previous owner had removed the AC relay and put it in the glove box. Not sure why that was. I know the previous owner's mechanic and asked him what the deal was. He does not seem to remember doing any of that, but stated he had replaced the water pump, t-stat, and power steering pump not 6 months ago. Is there just the one temp sensor in the t-stat housing or is there another one? Any info would be great.
Replace the temperature sensor in the goose neck as this seems to me it could be faulty. It looks like this:


Also, any time the A/C or Defroster is on, the electric fan comes on. It's supposed to do that to pull heat off of the condenser coil.
Old Dec 5, 2011 | 11:08 AM
  #8351  
Disoriented Hillbilly's Avatar
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From: chillicothe, OH
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Will a proportioning valve from a 89 work with a 95 booster and mc? Am upgrading brakes on my 91. Frankenstein style. Gotta get what i can. This (http://www.jeep4x4center.com/brake-p...-pv6070fd.html) says that the prop valve is the same?
Old Dec 5, 2011 | 11:12 AM
  #8352  
dukie564's Avatar
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by Disoriented Hillbilly
Will a proportioning valve from a 89 work with a 95 booster and mc? Am upgrading brakes on my 91. Frankenstein style. Gotta get what i can. This (http://www.jeep4x4center.com/brake-p...-pv6070fd.html) says that the prop valve is the same?
I don't know why places list the 1995 XJ brakes as being the same as 94 and below. They are not. 1995+ (including 1995) have a dual diaphragm booster. I know - I have one. You need a prop valve from a 1995+ XJ, go 1996+ to be safe since obviously websites list it wrong
Old Dec 5, 2011 | 11:18 AM
  #8353  
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
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Originally Posted by cconrad302
Breaker bar or impact wrench
breaker bar should be enough.
Old Dec 5, 2011 | 12:03 PM
  #8354  
Bassfishertim2015's Avatar
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Newman, Lake WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 cold air
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What do you guys think of those walmart goodyear wrangler authority tires? Come in 31x10.50x15. 150 a tire. Has the severe service emblem on the tire, for those of you who don't know what that is. It's rated for severe snow and ice. All four tires come to 634 installed. My walmart offers a 60 k mile warranty. Looks to be a pretty meaty tire.
Old Dec 5, 2011 | 12:25 PM
  #8355  
spoons's Avatar
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From: NW NY
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by onlyinajeep726
Did you check your fusible links? I'm not sure if '99s have them or not, but I know my '88 does. When one blew a couple years back, all my Jeep would do is wind over and over but no crank. Took 2 months of diagnosing and one accidental pull on a fusible link and my problem was solved.
Thanks for the input, looks like I don't have the fusible links, tho. Looks like Jeep did away with them by '99



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