Originally Posted by NewXJaddict

Answering my own question about serpentine belt squeal. Found a short simple article about belt squeal containing small bits of info that I previously had not considered.

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Serpentine belts are a great invention but unfortunately they drive everything on a modern engine which places a lot of load on them. When your belt displays any of the following:
-squeals when accelerating.
-chirps constantly
-squeals constantly
-squeals when wet or moist outside
-squeals when cold
-or any combination of the above.

The belt must be replaced, but wait... If you replace the belt it may stop for a while but then the noise comes back. This is because the old belt was slipping and has polished the pulleys or "glazed" them. So before you replace that noisy belt scrub all of the pulleys well with a scotch brite pad, or a good wire brush to remove the glaze and rough up the surface. Clean them off with brake cleaner afterward. Belts work by friction so if the surface is polished too much the belt will slip. If you have already put on a new belt and it is making noise, -sorry you must buy a new one again. Slipping on the pulleys will glaze a new belt fast which ruins it. Some people say you can apply brake cleaner etc to a new belt to fix it but that may not work well. If it slips it will just mess up your newly cleaned pulleys and you will have to scrub them up all over again. So do the job right and rough up the pulleys AND replace the belt at the same time.

There are a few other things that can cause serpentine belt noise tho so before you replace the belt check the following:
-The bearings in the tensioner and idler pulleys can go bad. To test this put some chalk or whiteout on the edge of those pulleys so it makes a bright "flash" you can see when it rotates. If the chirp is in time with the flash on one of the pulleys most likely you have a bad bearing in that pulley. Sometimes if you have the right tools you can press in a new bearing. Other times you need to get a new assembly. Other accessories can have bad bearings also so you may need to mark and watch them also. WARNING: Never stand in line with a moving belt or fan. If it comes apart etc it could cause severe injury.
-The tensioner can loose it's tension which will cause the belts to slip. If it is easy to move the tensioner then it needs to be replaced and the pulleys cleaned and belt replaced.
-The belt can become delaminated and part of the outer fabric cover can come loose which will "flap" when it hits parts of the engine making a noise. If you hear this tick tick tick noise and it seems to be in time with that printing on the belt then this may be the problem. Always install a serpentine belt so that the cover splice is pushed down by the motion of the belt rather than being peeled upward.
-The belt can crack or delaminate and sections of the inner VVVVV surface may break off and cause mysterious noises. If you see cracks in the inner surface replace the belt.

-Hope this helps!

REMEMBER: NEVER PUT ANY LUBRICANT ON A BELT!!! A lubricant may stop the belt from making noise temporarily but it defeats the purpose of having a belt. You need FRICTION between the belt and pulleys to transfer power. If you lube a belt it changes the frequency of the sound the belt makes to one you can't hear but will not drive the pulleys fast enough and you may end up with a dead battery, dim lights, poor AC, or high engine temps, etc. The slippage and lubricants work together to produce heat in the belt which will destroy the belt rapidly.

Originally Posted by candi198

Howdy from Texas,

My name is Candi. I am currently caretaker of a 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport (Automatic 4WD 4.0L i6 engine) with 228000 miles on it. This Jeep has been in my family since 1997 and became mine 2 years ago. Since then I have invested a good chunk of change into repairs.

2 months after I bought it I had to have the transmission rebuilt as it would not switch in to gear properly (you could hear and feel when it was not properly in gear)

The electric cooling fan had to be replaced (it was not coming on and the bearings were shot and caused over heating)

The alternator was replaced after 4 brand new batteries failed over the course of several months

The catalytic converter was replaced (it failed Texas state emissions inspection).

The O2 sensor replaced the year after (it failed Texas state emissions inspection).

The neutral safety switch replaced (got to work one morning and could not put it into park with out the parking brake being up)

Upgraded the Freon from R12 to the R134 after the ac system was flushed and hoses cleaned out (ac had a leak it which was fixed but it needed to be refilled. The upgrade was cheaper by about $250 than refilling the ac with R12)

The thermostat was replaced (to try and help with the inaccurate gauge readings)

The AC compressor was replaced (when you'd run the ac for more than 10 min in 80+ degree outside temperature then it would make a hideous noise like a fog horn and I was told by several people noises like that indicate a failing compressor).

So as you can see I have had extensive work done to this vehicle. Though I have often considered getting a new car through all the repairs, from research I have determined that I could not afford the payments on a vehicle with a comparable setup every month. I would like to restore my Jeep gradually as that seems to be the most affordable option. I'd like to turn my Jeep from a heap to a Performance machine! I figured the best plase to start would be on the forms, where there are others that in to tweaking their Jeep. I’m getting a bit tired of going to the mechanics every time a repair needs to be done (though the ones I have are fair in the way they price) I am very mechanically inclined and would like to do any repairs I can my self. I have the complete Jeep Service manual from Jeep its self (which was helpful when I installed an aftermarket radio) and would like to roll up my sleeves and get in to it.

Here is the list of things that need to be done and problems that I've been having.

Head liner needs to completely redone (I need to know if there is any where I can buy a head liner kit though I have instructions on how to make my own)

The transmission is exhibiting some of the same signs it was before I had it rebuilt. This time id like to completely replace it with a new one (I've read about Coleman Taylor’s ability to custom make tranny's has any one had experience with them?)

I would like to replace the entire dash with digital gauges (I'd like to know exactilly numbers instead of inaccurate needles)

I do tons of freeway driving and have noticed that when I accelerate above 65 and hold it for the car heats up (above 220 temp which is the normal operating temp from what the mechanics tell me) The temp climbs to the line right before the red if I have the ac on than the typical trip I make is probably 15 min freeway and 15 on the road.

So I’m looking to upgrade the cooling system so it cools quicker and more efficiently. The eclectic fan switches on but it dose not seem to help much (or some times at all) once the temp passes the 220 thresh hold (this is with the ac on). This is bad because where I live it is currently in the dead heat of summer and it is common to see an average daily temp from 95 to over 100. So I’m looking to tweak the cooling fans (possibly add another some where to keep the ambient temperature inside the engine between 210 and 220 at the most.

I have also noticed that the fuel gauge falls back to the right then I slow down to a stop... Not just a hare but like from half to full which it only recently started doing.

I am also under the impression there may be an issue with either the head lights having a short in the wiring or an issue with the alternater/charcing sys. If I have my ac on the battery gauge reads a hare to the left of middle (the 14) if I turn my head lights on it falls drastically to the left to like what I'm guessing is 10 or 11. I’ve read normal is any where between 12.5 and 13.5. Is there currently an option to install head lights in this year model that draw less power or maybe user more energy efficient bulbs. Also on the subject of light I am looking into putting the large “spotlights on the roof of the jeep and wiring a switch for them on the inside.

When I run my AC I hear a rattling noise comming from the vent on the furthest right on the front passenger’s side. I think there may be a clog in it but have not took it a part to see yet. None of the other vents make this noise.

I’d like appreciate any opinions on who makes the best aftermarket parts ad far as fuel pumps, high performance cooling fans, digital dash gauge assemblies, new transmissions and a head liner kit.

Thanks for reading.

Originally Posted by Daugherty Boys

I was wondering what your opinion on using a spray in bed liner in my XJ floorboard instead of the carpet(I HATE THE CARPET!!!)???

Originally Posted by candi198

Howdy from Texas,

My name is Candi. I am currently caretaker of a 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport (Automatic 4WD 4.0L i6 engine) with 228000 miles on it. This Jeep has been in my family since 1997 and became mine 2 years ago. Since then I have invested a good chunk of change into repairs.

2 months after I bought it I had to have the transmission rebuilt as it would not switch in to gear properly (you could hear and feel when it was not properly in gear)

The electric cooling fan had to be replaced (it was not coming on and the bearings were shot and caused over heating)

The alternator was replaced after 4 brand new batteries failed over the course of several months

The catalytic converter was replaced (it failed Texas state emissions inspection).

The O2 sensor replaced the year after (it failed Texas state emissions inspection).

The neutral safety switch replaced (got to work one morning and could not put it into park with out the parking brake being up)

Upgraded the Freon from R12 to the R134 after the ac system was flushed and hoses cleaned out (ac had a leak it which was fixed but it needed to be refilled. The upgrade was cheaper by about $250 than refilling the ac with R12)

The thermostat was replaced (to try and help with the inaccurate gauge readings)

The AC compressor was replaced (when you'd run the ac for more than 10 min in 80+ degree outside temperature then it would make a hideous noise like a fog horn and I was told by several people noises like that indicate a failing compressor).

So as you can see I have had extensive work done to this vehicle. Though I have often considered getting a new car through all the repairs, from research I have determined that I could not afford the payments on a vehicle with a comparable setup every month. I would like to restore my Jeep gradually as that seems to be the most affordable option. I'd like to turn my Jeep from a heap to a Performance machine! I figured the best plase to start would be on the forms, where there are others that in to tweaking their Jeep. I’m getting a bit tired of going to the mechanics every time a repair needs to be done (though the ones I have are fair in the way they price) I am very mechanically inclined and would like to do any repairs I can my self. I have the complete Jeep Service manual from Jeep its self (which was helpful when I installed an aftermarket radio) and would like to roll up my sleeves and get in to it.

Here is the list of things that need to be done and problems that I've been having.

Head liner needs to completely redone (I need to know if there is any where I can buy a head liner kit though I have instructions on how to make my own)

The transmission is exhibiting some of the same signs it was before I had it rebuilt. This time id like to completely replace it with a new one (I've read about Coleman Taylor’s ability to custom make tranny's has any one had experience with them?)

I would like to replace the entire dash with digital gauges (I'd like to know exactilly numbers instead of inaccurate needles)

I do tons of freeway driving and have noticed that when I accelerate above 65 and hold it for the car heats up (above 220 temp which is the normal operating temp from what the mechanics tell me) The temp climbs to the line right before the red if I have the ac on than the typical trip I make is probably 15 min freeway and 15 on the road.

So I’m looking to upgrade the cooling system so it cools quicker and more efficiently. The eclectic fan switches on but it dose not seem to help much (or some times at all) once the temp passes the 220 thresh hold (this is with the ac on). This is bad because where I live it is currently in the dead heat of summer and it is common to see an average daily temp from 95 to over 100. So I’m looking to tweak the cooling fans (possibly add another some where to keep the ambient temperature inside the engine between 210 and 220 at the most.

I have also noticed that the fuel gauge falls back to the right then I slow down to a stop... Not just a hare but like from half to full which it only recently started doing.

I am also under the impression there may be an issue with either the head lights having a short in the wiring or an issue with the alternater/charcing sys. If I have my ac on the battery gauge reads a hare to the left of middle (the 14) if I turn my head lights on it falls drastically to the left to like what I'm guessing is 10 or 11. I’ve read normal is any where between 12.5 and 13.5. Is there currently an option to install head lights in this year model that draw less power or maybe user more energy efficient bulbs. Also on the subject of light I am looking into putting the large “spotlights on the roof of the jeep and wiring a switch for them on the inside.

When I run my AC I hear a rattling noise comming from the vent on the furthest right on the front passenger’s side. I think there may be a clog in it but have not took it a part to see yet. None of the other vents make this noise.

I’d like appreciate any opinions on who makes the best aftermarket parts ad far as fuel pumps, high performance cooling fans, digital dash gauge assemblies, new transmissions and a head liner kit.

Thanks for reading.

Originally Posted by Gryphon439

Does anyone know if it is possible to put our torque converters on a switch. I have a 91 with an Asain AW-4 and it drives me nuts when it locks and unlocks the torque converter on hills. I want to make a three-way switch.

1 - Lock
2 - Auto
3 - Unlock

Originally Posted by Cj.stuff

I know that many people refer to Dana 35's as garbage, but I have a question. I found one from a 1989 cherokee that has a detroit ez locker with "31 spline superior axles" with 3:42 gears. I've never heard of these? Everything I've read says dana 35's had 27 spline. Is there any validity to this?

Originally Posted by Daugherty Boys

I was wondering what your opinion on using a spray in bed liner in my XJ floorboard instead of the carpet(I HATE THE CARPET!!!)???

Originally Posted by kwando

Hi everyone, first time poster here. Long time lurker though

I have been browsing through all the diagnostic code and troubleshooting threads I could find and still cant come up with an answer so here goes:

On my way to work today, my 2000 Cherokee started putting a bit, almost like a spark plus mis-firing or something. My transmission clunks a little when I put it in reverse and if Im at the end of 3rd gear almost in 4th (auto trans) I noticed it will clunk if I let off and tap the gas again, like its a bit loose. This is not the main issue, however.

The main issue is the putting and also if I am at a stand still, I can rev my engine up, and almost 10 times out of 10 it will die when I let off the gas. It will not die if left to idle, only if I rev it up and let off.

I tried the old school key trick (on/off 3-4 times) to no avail, then read about the newer method of pushing the trip then turning the vehicle on. I get the scrolling 1111111 through 9999999 like I should, but then it just goes back to my mileage, which is just over 113k.

My check engine light came on the second it first happened on my way to work and has been on since. I have never had this happen before and I have owned the Jeep for 7 years. The only thing out of the ordinary is that my wife and I just returned from a 6 day vacation and it sat idle at home in 90-95F degree heat in my driveway.

Should I have a diagnostic ran on it or am I missing something here? I even tried making sure the parking brake was on before attempting the key trick. I am hoping this is just the spark plugs but I sure would love to know for sure before I hand it over to some crook with a wrench so he can fix all the things its not first, draining any savings I may have.

Any and all help is much appreciated, thanks guys!!
-Kwando


Here are my specs:
2000 Jeep Cherokee Freedom Edition
4.0L In-line 6
Automatic transmission
113k original miles
Stock suspension with max size tires (roughly 30x9.5)

Originally Posted by fantic238

Upgraded dana35 are not uncommon.
The super 35 kit from Superior Axle & Gear gives about +35% of strength with 1.31 inch, 30 spline axles and a matched detroit locker.
Truss the housing and you've got an axle with the same performances of a dana44.