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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 09:47 AM
  #1591  
Marine Mike's Avatar
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From: Arizona
Year: 98
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Red face coil buckets???

Well I'm welding on the new brackets, on my D44, and I'm having a hard time getting a accurate messurement with my D30 on my jeep. It would help me tons if some one knows the center to center on the coil buckets....... please let me know what you got!
Old Oct 6, 2010 | 10:23 AM
  #1592  
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Originally Posted by Marine Mike
Well I'm welding on the new brackets, on my D44, and I'm having a hard time getting a accurate messurement with my D30 on my jeep. It would help me tons if some one knows the center to center on the coil buckets....... please let me know what you got!
Are you sure about the dana 30? not 35? If it's the 30 i can go measure the distance on my spare one.
Old Oct 6, 2010 | 10:39 AM
  #1593  
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Originally Posted by fantic238
Are you sure about the dana 30? not 35? If it's the 30 i can go measure the distance on my spare one.
Measured 910mm (36 inches) between the two coil perches, center to center.
Old Oct 6, 2010 | 05:54 PM
  #1594  
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Originally Posted by fantic238
Measured 910mm (36 inches) between the two coil perches, center to center.
I'm pretty sure I have the HPD30, that's what came in the 98' if I'm not mistaken, but either way the messurement of the coil buckets should stay the same shouldn't they??
Old Oct 6, 2010 | 06:59 PM
  #1595  
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1990 Cherokee. Had the "sloppy column" syndrome until I changed out columns. Now I have an issue with the shift lever (auto trans) and getting the key out. It's like it doesn't go all the way into park so I can turn the key back to take it out. The button on the lever is also hard to push in to take it out of park. It did it with the old sloppy column, and I just figured it was part of the slop. I noticed when it does it I can pull the shift lever back into gear without putting my foot on the brake. I know the shift lock is connected to the key in some way (cable, if I remember right), is there a way to adjust this so I don't have to fight to get it in park and take the key out?



Scratch that. Found out how to fix!

Last edited by damageincracing; Oct 6, 2010 at 07:07 PM. Reason: Current inability to read... Long day...
Old Oct 6, 2010 | 09:37 PM
  #1596  
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Default 89 jeep 5 speed

i have a 89 jeep cherokee with a 5 speed ax15 transmission in it and when i go forward it hops and jumps and dies but when i go reverse it works fine and the engine runs perfect in netural and the jeep sat for a year and a half would any body like to help me out

Last edited by 89jeepcherokeex4x4; Oct 6, 2010 at 09:42 PM.
Old Oct 6, 2010 | 10:56 PM
  #1597  
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I just replaced the rear brake shoes, drums, and hardware on my 90 xj 2 door and now I have a moderate to severe brake pulsation under moderate to hard braking. I took the drums back off and everything is in its proper place. No blueing of the shoes or drums either. Aside from my bad luck of possible getting drums that are out of round, could it be a drive line issue such as the trans mount. My thinking on that is because the pulsation in not consistent and i noticed that it may be worse when the clutch is in while down shifting. Clutch in equals drive line dissengaded though huh. haha. I was just wondering if anyone had any similar issues. Thank you for your time
Old Oct 7, 2010 | 01:05 AM
  #1598  
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Originally Posted by fantic238
Zach's right 100%. First thing to test is the +12 to the cluster and the ground. You need wireing diagrams and tester.
thanks guys....i have the FSM and can buy a tester if that whats needed, but not to sound like a newbie, ive never 'tested' wires before.
im trying to learn to do the work on this jeep myself as mush as possible.
i tried looking at the wiring diagrams for a few things but was a bit confused.
how does one go about testing the wires,say the +12 to the cluster and the ground, as and example....can a rookie like me do it?
thanks again heaps
P
Old Oct 7, 2010 | 01:16 AM
  #1599  
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Originally Posted by #999
thanks guys....i have the FSM and can buy a tester if that whats needed, but not to sound like a newbie, ive never 'tested' wires before.
im trying to learn to do the work on this jeep myself as mush as possible.
i tried looking at the wiring diagrams for a few things but was a bit confused.
how does one go about testing the wires,say the +12 to the cluster and the ground, as and example....can a rookie like me do it?
thanks again heaps
P
you absolutely can do it.
I'll be the first person to raise my hand and say that I just plain don't get wiring, mechanical stuff comes naturally to me. IF I can do it YOU can do it.

Nugget of Advice: drop the cash for at least a decent multi-meter. Don't get some POS, you will regret it. Typically the way I test wires is I use the probes to just get through the insulation jacket into the copper core of a wire. The +12 wire to the cluster is going to be the one that provides power to the cluster, there will also be one ground wire, everything else are signal wires. If you have a short or bad connection in either the ground or "hot" wire, you'll have major gauge cluster issues. My bet would be on a problem with the ground wire which is probably grounded to the unibody inside the Jeep.

FYI: whenever you probe a wire, its good practice to use some brush or spray on electrical tape to reseal the insulation.
Old Oct 7, 2010 | 02:23 AM
  #1600  
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Originally Posted by Marine Mike
I'm pretty sure I have the HPD30, that's what came in the 98' if I'm not mistaken, but either way the messurement of the coil buckets should stay the same shouldn't they??
Yes..
Old Oct 7, 2010 | 02:27 AM
  #1601  
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Originally Posted by tacmedic909
My '95 4.0L, 5 speed ahs been acting up. When I start it I have no problems, driving is hit or miss. Sometimes it will shut off for no reason and give no warnings, i.e. no trouble codes, no shuttering, just goes from normal RPMs to 0! I don't lose power though, my lights,radio, etc. all work fine.
I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump relay and have put gas/fuel injector cleaner in the tank but it is still screwing up. When it does shut off Ill pull to the side of the road and give it a few seconds and try to start it and it starts fine. Please help its my only daily driver.
Check the CPS connector.
Old Oct 7, 2010 | 02:58 AM
  #1602  
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Originally Posted by Marine Mike
I'm pretty sure I have the HPD30, that's what came in the 98' if I'm not mistaken, but either way the messurement of the coil buckets should stay the same shouldn't they??
I don't even bother answering questions like these anymore.

The answer to your question is right here: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/ch...ck-specs-6345/

My advice would be to bookmark that thread and refer to it often. The info in there will do you well.
Old Oct 7, 2010 | 03:02 AM
  #1603  
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
I don't even bother answering questions like these anymore.

The answer to your question is right here: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/ch...ck-specs-6345/

My advice would be to bookmark that thread and refer to it often. The info in there will do you well.
There is a LOT of bull**** written in that thread.
Example:
Dana 30 high pinion - reverse cut - 27 spline, 1.16" diameter shafts, 7.13" ring gear - used 86-92 (all axles are vacuum disconnect, and have 5-260x u-joints)
You should be better "bookmarking" this thread.
Old Oct 7, 2010 | 08:39 AM
  #1604  
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Originally Posted by fantic238
Yes..
Ok cool! Thanks for the info!
Old Oct 7, 2010 | 01:12 PM
  #1605  
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sorry i have a noob question that i have searched for an answer but cant seem to find an answer. What is a bastard pack?



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