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10-07-2010, 01:30 PM
#1606
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: woodbine
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So the tailpipe on my 95 cherokee has rusted out at the support after the muffler (The support is literally cutting through the tailpipe, its about halfway through it now). I have had this hole for a while, and it is under the jeep, yet ive never had any issues with exhaust leaking into the cab.
Money is low, so im wondering if there is any problem with taking the tailpipe off completely after the muffler, and just putting a small L shaped pipe on the muffler so it just throws exhaust to the side?
Thanks
Money is low, so im wondering if there is any problem with taking the tailpipe off completely after the muffler, and just putting a small L shaped pipe on the muffler so it just throws exhaust to the side?
Thanks
10-07-2010, 01:42 PM
#1607
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Logan, UT
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
There are plenty of how to's and threads that are explaining better
10-07-2010, 09:48 PM
#1608
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10-08-2010, 12:47 AM
#1609
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Join Date: Jun 2010
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
you absolutely can do it.
I'll be the first person to raise my hand and say that I just plain don't get wiring, mechanical stuff comes naturally to me. IF I can do it YOU can do it.
Nugget of Advice: drop the cash for at least a decent multi-meter. Don't get some POS, you will regret it. Typically the way I test wires is I use the probes to just get through the insulation jacket into the copper core of a wire. The +12 wire to the cluster is going to be the one that provides power to the cluster, there will also be one ground wire, everything else are signal wires. If you have a short or bad connection in either the ground or "hot" wire, you'll have major gauge cluster issues. My bet would be on a problem with the ground wire which is probably grounded to the unibody inside the Jeep.
FYI: whenever you probe a wire, its good practice to use some brush or spray on electrical tape to reseal the insulation.
I'll be the first person to raise my hand and say that I just plain don't get wiring, mechanical stuff comes naturally to me. IF I can do it YOU can do it.
Nugget of Advice: drop the cash for at least a decent multi-meter. Don't get some POS, you will regret it. Typically the way I test wires is I use the probes to just get through the insulation jacket into the copper core of a wire. The +12 wire to the cluster is going to be the one that provides power to the cluster, there will also be one ground wire, everything else are signal wires. If you have a short or bad connection in either the ground or "hot" wire, you'll have major gauge cluster issues. My bet would be on a problem with the ground wire which is probably grounded to the unibody inside the Jeep.
FYI: whenever you probe a wire, its good practice to use some brush or spray on electrical tape to reseal the insulation.
P
10-08-2010, 12:59 AM
#1610
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10-08-2010, 01:25 AM
#1611
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: IDAHO
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
hey, i have a 2001 XJ w/ power windows. currently i can not roll down any of the 4 windows..... it seems like there is no power but i have checked the fuse......ideas? and since i have owned the jeep my front pass. window never rolled down i checked the wiring and nothing seemed to show.....????
10-08-2010, 02:36 AM
#1612
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Eastern Pa
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Quick update I replaced the drums and there is no more vibration. Brought up another question though. I replaced the brake shoes drums and e-brake cables. The brakes are adjusted properly and the adjuster is all the way in and the e-brake holds a little bit but no where near what it should, especially with the adjuster all the way out and handle all the way up. I just spent about 3 frusrating hours on the brake cables only to find the e brake a small bit better. Any help is much apreciated. Does anyone know if there are differant e brake cables for cherokee's. My thinking is that the 2 door might have a shorter cable then the 4 door. That sound right to anyone?
Last edited by bakerg; 10-08-2010 at 03:26 AM. Reason: idea
10-08-2010, 04:12 AM
#1614
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Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
So the tailpipe on my 95 cherokee has rusted out at the support after the muffler (The support is literally cutting through the tailpipe, its about halfway through it now). I have had this hole for a while, and it is under the jeep, yet ive never had any issues with exhaust leaking into the cab.
Money is low, so im wondering if there is any problem with taking the tailpipe off completely after the muffler, and just putting a small L shaped pipe on the muffler so it just throws exhaust to the side?
Thanks
Money is low, so im wondering if there is any problem with taking the tailpipe off completely after the muffler, and just putting a small L shaped pipe on the muffler so it just throws exhaust to the side?
Thanks
10-08-2010, 04:15 AM
#1615
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Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
Quick update I replaced the drums and there is no more vibration. Brought up another question though. I replaced the brake shoes drums and e-brake cables. The brakes are adjusted properly and the adjuster is all the way in and the e-brake holds a little bit but no where near what it should, especially with the adjuster all the way out and handle all the way up. I just spent about 3 frusrating hours on the brake cables only to find the e brake a small bit better. Any help is much apreciated. Does anyone know if there are differant e brake cables for cherokee's. My thinking is that the 2 door might have a shorter cable then the 4 door. That sound right to anyone?
10-08-2010, 08:50 AM
#1616
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Greensboro, NC
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO 242
New Question here. I recently installed (<2 months ago) a rough country 4.5 lift with 4.5 coils in front. I have had some awful rubbing of the driver side coil against the track bar bracket and my left coil is all kinds of bent outta wack. I plan on contacting Rough Country about the issue, but wanted to get a feeler here first. I have uploaded a few pics to show the issues. I am pretty sure this isnt normal for the spacing to be so odd.
10-08-2010, 11:39 AM
#1617
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
you wouldn't necessarily need to replace the whole wire, just the part thats damaged. or if its not getting a good contact where its bolted to the unibody for a ground, you clean up the connector and where its bolted to till they're shiny, bolt it back on and spray a thin coat of paint to protect it from messing up again. replacing an entire wire would be a royal pita. you'd have to take the jeep half way apart.l
bathed in mud!
P
10-08-2010, 11:50 AM
#1618
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Calgary, Alberta
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I want to replace my leaf springs in the rear (they're bending backwards.... they're not even flat anymore) and I have been shopping around, I want to buy new ones... unless I can get as many miles out of a Junk-Yard one... but I doubt it. How much should new ones cost? I want a small lift kit with shackles but I shouldn't put that on fatigued springs right? Or can I? Anyways cheapest I've found so far is around 180 for a pair, then HD ones are more expensive, they have an extra leaf... is this worth the extra money to buy HD leafs? Because they might last longer? Any input?
10-08-2010, 03:33 PM
#1619
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Eastern Pa
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Update. The drums are adjusted up right. Apearantly the cables for the 89 are about a quarter of an inch shorter then the ones on the 90 and my production date just so happens to be 1 of 90. Haha
10-08-2010, 08:41 PM
#1620
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: NE FL
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
How do I access the blower motor?
I've been searching for a write up but havent found one. Do I need to go in under the glove box or is it under the hood and I need to take out the water tank thing by the firewall? Anyone have a link?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.