Ok i know it has been done but what are the pros/cons of taking the doors off of a 91 2 door? And what is the best method for doing so?

 

help 1999 xj a/c and fan not working tested all relays ok pin 85 on coolingfan relay socket ?

 

i want to put a 3" lift . other than the shocks that have to be replaced is there any thing else that might need any attention

 

I just bought a `97 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 w/ 199,000 miles for $900. The gentleman I bought it from said he took her to a shop & they told him he needed an oil pump. When I started her & test drove her, everything seemed doable, so I took her home. Now, while driving, the oil pressure(according to the gauge on the dashboard) would drop to zero. I would pull over, shut her off for a few, then start her up. When I start her again, the pressure would read normal, then after a lil while, drop to zero again. I got her home, the next day ordered a high-volume pump, & installed over the next couple days. Started her up & the dash gauge read Zero. Instead of getting a mechanical gauge, I just purchased/replaced the sending unit. After I installed new sending unit, I fired her up & still no pressure, plus she started tapping. I am unsure what to do next at this point. Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions???

 

I can only guess he means "gusset" the housing so it's basically like a "truss." I'm still a Jeep newb but I know that you want to add gussets from the differential to the axle tubes for additional strength.

 

Same thing happened to me. There was a lot of sludge in the pan that would clog up the strainer. Stop the engine and the pump stops and the sludge goes back down til I started driving again. Drop your pan and check for and clean out any sludge and clean the strainer. Did you prime your new pump?

 

Forgot to prime it. Someone else said there isn't a need to prime it.I saw something about vasoline, but not sure how that works. There is a bunch of sludge, was considering the Seafoam thing, since its so popular. So i guess I gotta pull it apart again. Blast! Don't have any shade or a garage. Oh well.

 

It's 30 spline and a truss is something like this:

 

Please check the lift thread first, thanks.

 

Pros: looks kool, you can stretch your leg better, you get in and out easily etc.
cons: mud, rain, bees and cows will inevitably get through the opening..

 

I'm new to the forum, but this looked like an appropriate place to ask my question, correct me and show me a better place if I'm wrong.

I bought a 1988 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L, 4-door 4x4 automatic 180k/mi, it was cheap and had a bad engine knock in the bottom end, but once oil circulated, it went away until the engine warmed up enough for the oil to thin out.
Several months later, I rebuild a junkyard engine I pulled from a 1991 Jeep Comanche with 96k/mi. When test driving it for the first time, I noted a drop in rpm whenever I hit a bump, dismissing it unless it became a problem I continued on another 30 miles, when I drove it again it died pulling into the parts store's parking lot, my buddy who works there came and looked at it, and said "I don't know".
30 miles down the road it inexplicably dies, I was able to restart it while rolling and made it to a red-light, and it hasn't run for more than a few seconds since.

The coil is not firing for some reason, I replaced it, tested the ICM, replaced the stator/pickup in the distributor, and the CPS as well, still no fire, I have hunted high and low for a dirty connection or loose/shorted wire.
A friend-recommended-mechanic told me to gap the cps to 30-40 thousandths, not really easy considering th location, nor does the oem part allow for fudge-factor, so he says to file out the bracket holes with a chainsaw file until the air-gap is around .030".

Any suggestions comments or ideas would be wonderful, I've done everything anyone has suggested to me so far, and it has done nothing but cost me thousands of dollars at this point.

 

I've never heard of anyone ever filing out the CPS bracket.
New ones come with a paper spacer in place. Paper is no where near .030" thick. I don't have an answer for you, but that answer sounds like BS to me.
And Welcome to CF!

 

Ok so I was driving the other day and my harmonic balancer came apart thew all the rubber out of it so I had to drive it 15 miles to get it home. Did not overheat or anything. but when I replaced the harmonic balancer It has an extended crank before it starts and once it starts has a rough idle, also if you give it a quick snap if the throttle it dies. if you rev it up and let off slowly it goes back to the rough Idle until it warms up. Any Idaes.

 

I put a new ignition switch in yesterday it since it got an occasional spark when turning the key off, and it cranked up immediately, something it hasn't done since the problem started, but ran like hell, so I knew I had messed up the distributor location fiddling with it, so I shut it off after cranking it again, just to be sure it was running, and reset the location of the distributor based on TDC on no.1 cylinder, and rotor button at no.1 wire. now no spark, nothing at all again. So I thought, maybe its firing on the exhaust stroke, so I turned it 180 or so degrees, still no fire.
I guess I'm going to play with proper timing later today after work and lunch.

BTW the CPS I got had no paper spacer, and the bracket hole wasn't elongated for adjustment like I was told they are supposed to be.

 

I'll send you a Private Message.