That's why I kinda took offence when I was criticized for using 10w30. Lol

 

Another question, If I replace my 4.0 with a stroker. Is there anything that has to be done to the computer or anything like that? Or is it just a basic engine swap?

 

My mistake, indeed you are correct! I just remember the 0° part. Stupid American units lol

Most strokers... not necessarily. Supporting mods are required (air, exhaust, fuel) but usually the PCM can take it all as the engine still basically works the same way and the fuel mapping tables vs sensory input is all the same. If you want to do something like forced induction or really mess things up then the picture's different.

 

Who are you callin' stupid ??

 

If memory serves, an adjustable MAP sensor is needed...but that may just be for the turbocharger I was considering

 

Steelybill, I had a similar problem with my XJ when I bought it. I actually had to lift the door by the door handle for it to close completely.

What I did was loosen the bottom hinge bolts holding the door, and had a friend elevate the door while I installed washers between the hinge and the door.

Doing that moves the bottom of the door slightly to the rear, and raises it at the same time.

I had to experiment a couple of times to find the right combination of washers. In the end, I would estimate the thickness I used to be about 3/16th of an inch.

Make sure you check the door after you tighten the bolts to make sure you didn't move it "in" or "out" when you did the adjusting. It should still be flush with the front fender.

Since I did this fix, my door now shut practically by themselves. Big difference.

 

Your legislators if you want...

The adjustable MAP is to "turn down" the true reading right? AFAIK atmospheric pressure and lower is how the PCM deals. Wouldn't know how to handle more than one atmosphere's worth. At least that's my understanding.

 

Up or down by modifying the 5V input signal.

 

Anyone know how long the rear hard steel brake line on a 96 cherokee are ?

 

Long as hell. Just replaced mine. On my 91, the flare for the prop valve is a bubble flare and the other end uses an inverted (double) flare. To make my life easy, I just cut the line near the control arm, salvaged the good stuff with all the bends going to prop valve, flared it, and snaked it back into place with a proper flare union installed on the bottom. Then I took another short section to connect that hppe piece to the frame rail. Using a second union, I ran the longest piece of line AutoZone had from that union to the rear soft line.

 

Front brakes smoking. Replaced pads and rotors, calipers didn't show signs of locking. Whats happening?

 

Could be deteriorated soft lines. Chased my tail for weeks with the Camaro before I finally listened to someone and replaced them. No more problems there. My truck needs the same thing, but it only drags a little and doesn't lock.

Edit: What happens is the inner line wears out from the corrosive brake fluid. It can peel and develop a 'flap' inside that acts as a valve. It gets pushed against the wall when you apply pressure, and it pulls back and blocks flow when you release the pedal

 

Should I rebuild or replace my power steering pump? It's leaking at the pulley now.

 

replaced as well

 

Are your steering knuckles notched? Not sure if that's what you meant by calipers not locking. I had to file my knuckles out a bit so my pads would slide properly. They're great now.