You could cut your existing and secure it to the new axle. It's easy to adjust. Cheap too

 

excellent I guess I'm pretty much set. Lol

 

Trying to figure out what this is, seems to be rusting out rather good and would like to get it changed.

 

And vague questions get vague responses, I apologize. It's the piece that bolts up to the frame area, I could be wrong to say I think the track bar hooks up to it?

 

yes that's track bar body mount

 

track bar bracket

most people replace it with a double-shear setup, but the length is determined partly by ride height, and stock height requires a different track bar length. if you aren't going to lift or wheel aggressively then stock-style is fine

 

I plan on lifting, but won't be for a little while. So I suppose stock will work for now. Thanks!

 

Ok so my jeep Cherokee sport a 1995 keeps stalling at random times I've replaced crank postion ting sender coil and pick up coil in distributor what do I do

 

Nothing is random with a jeep. Be specific. Is it when idling at a red light. Speeding. Reg city driving. Also is it standard or an auto

 

Have you ever cleaned your throttle body and IAC?

Courtesy of TJWalker:
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The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is retracted, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is extended, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea. This should be part of a normal tune-up procedure and whenever idle/stalling issues are present.

CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL

Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a Torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to). On 91 and later, it may be easier to just remove the whole throttle body. Be sure to use a new throttle body to manifold gasket when reinstalling.

“Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket/O-ring on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged

Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and oxygen sensors. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.

Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner

It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body bore itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and it’s edges, and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled

Revised 10-6-2014

 

1988 Jeep XJ 4.0l 4x4

Here's my issue: Pulled dash for Heater core replacement. Got everything back together and go to recharge AC using actual gauges. When trying to recharge my system the system takes about 1/2 a can and won't suck anymore in. The clutch does NOT engage even when jumping the LP switch. I switched the relays around and it still will not kick.

I disconnected the ac power lines and touched them directly to the positive terminal and the clutch locks instantly when the vehicle is off. So I tried the same with the vehicle running and it engages but seems to be turning very slow and sounds funny. Pressure does not really change in the 5 seconds or so I leave it touching the battery.

What could be my issue and where do I start diagnosing the no power to relay issue.

The AC worked fine before I discharged it and pulled the dash apart.

 

Attempted the OFA gasket today, defeated. Tried it, read some, motivation kicked in tried more, looks like another 3k of leaking before I give it a go. Cut down a socket, 12mm wrench with some tape, bar from floor jack, no can do. Can't keep the bit in straight enough. Slightly Beveled tip seems to be an issue, tried using a pick to get it out.

can I get a new OFA and just cut that one off lol!

 

What are you using? I've been told Torx T60 is the standard size there, but every OFA I've done has been a 14mm hex key (Allen wrench)

 

T60. Ratchet. Cut off for clearance couldn't punch it out. I swear some people on here are superman

 

96 cherokee sport
First off want to start out by saying that I am new to the jeep world and that hopefully I'm posting this in the right place. Just bought my first jeep 2 days ago and so far so good. Bought a 96 cherokee 4x4 4dr sport. So far the only compliant that I have is that I'm 6 ft 3 and the drivers seat doesn't quite go back far enough! So my question is, is there a new base I can buy to push the seat a few inches back? ... or am I going to have to fabricate my own? I've looked around and tried to find something like what I'm looking for to no avail, also searched this forum but like I said I'm new and could be searching wrong. Or is there a aftermarket seat that would accommodate me without choosing an arm and a leg? Any advice and tips will be greatly appreciated!