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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 03:26 PM
  #48136  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Would white lithium grease work?
Silicone spray is best
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 03:36 PM
  #48137  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Silicone spray is best
K
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 03:36 PM
  #48138  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Would white lithium grease work?
No. It dries up all gummy.
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 03:37 PM
  #48139  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks

Would white lithium grease work?
It'll leave streaks all over the windows. Just look at my car
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 03:37 PM
  #48140  
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Oh...yeah very good to know. Glad I didn't try that.
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 04:06 PM
  #48141  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by xj400
No I've search for diagrams and the only one I can seen to find is for the headlights but the colors are all different. I looked at the turn signal switch the brown w white and the light blue also run through that but no white w green or extra red w orange. so I'm guessing those turn off the NON existent fog lights when the headlights are on?? And the extra red w orange is a power for foods and white with pink is a signal on off wire? As far as I'm concerned the headlights are wired right and the extra wires are for the figs my jeep doesn't have I do remember reading somewhere that all jeeps are pre wired for all options whether it had then or not is this true?
Alright I'll try to remember again to look tonight, I'm trying to sell my house right now so things are a tad crazy...

The fog lights actually don't have any interaction with a switch other than to power them on initially. The auto-off when highbeams are selected is done by a relay in the power distribution center. For the most part, yes, XJ wiring is a standard harness, but for whatever reason this doesn't apply to fog lights. If your XJ didn't have them from the factory the wiring isn't there.

Originally Posted by Celticclove
Can anyone tell me what size of bolt goes in the front leaf spring mount ?
M14x2.0 120mm ISO Class 10.9 flange-head. Bolt + hardened washer will work too.

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
It'll leave streaks all over the windows. Just look at my car
I figured that was bird ****. Or the passengers. Or all of the above.
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 05:07 PM
  #48142  
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Having trouble compressing my brake caliper, i have a c-clamp but the piston is being a *****. Any tips or ideas to make this easier?
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 05:09 PM
  #48143  
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
Having trouble compressing my brake caliper, i have a c-clamp but the piston is being a *****. Any tips or ideas to make this easier?
un cap the master cylinder
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 05:31 PM
  #48144  
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
Having trouble compressing my brake caliper, i have a c-clamp but the piston is being a *****. Any tips or ideas to make this easier?
Getting even pressure across the piston, or are you putting it in a bind?

Could be a stuck caliper piston also.............
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 06:32 PM
  #48145  
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Alright guys, all done! I got the passenger side done in about 3 minutes, so when i went back to driver side i noticed the piston wasn't compressing evenly. I put a small flat bar in to keep it straight and it went in smooth as silk. I think it was definitely time for new parts... Here's some pictures for a comparison:
Old:

XJ Ask the Question Thread-forumrunner_20150128_182959.png

New:


XJ Ask the Question Thread-forumrunner_20150128_183109.png
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 06:33 PM
  #48146  
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
Having trouble compressing my brake caliper, i have a c-clamp but the piston is being a *****. Any tips or ideas to make this easier?
If you don't mind doing the extra work to bleed them you can always Crack the bleeder valve then compress the caliper! But you will have to bleed them well! If opening the cap on the master doesn't work that is, also if you still cannot compress them after all that your caliper is probably bad (locked up)
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 06:46 PM
  #48147  
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Originally Posted by FOB
If you don't mind doing the extra work to bleed them you can always Crack the bleeder valve then compress the caliper! But you will have to bleed them well! If opening the cap on the master doesn't work that is, also if you still cannot compress them after all that your caliper is probably bad (locked up)
Good advice.

and, bleeding old brake fluid out is never a bad idea.
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 07:30 PM
  #48148  
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Originally Posted by FOB

If you don't mind doing the extra work to bleed them you can always Crack the bleeder valve then compress the caliper! But you will have to bleed them well! If opening the cap on the master doesn't work that is, also if you still cannot compress them after all that your caliper is probably bad (locked up)
Originally Posted by cruiser54

Good advice.

and, bleeding old brake fluid out is never a bad idea.
Brake fluid should be flushed at least every five years as even it breaks down. Brake fluid is hygroscopic meaning it absorbs moisture from the air. By doing so it starts to break down and become less effective.
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 07:54 PM
  #48149  
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Originally Posted by Outlaw Star

Brake fluid should be flushed at least every five years as even it breaks down. Brake fluid is hygroscopic meaning it absorbs moisture from the air. By doing so it starts to break down and become less effective.
True story. Replace with DOT-3, 4, or 5.1 but not DOT-5
Old Jan 28, 2015 | 07:58 PM
  #48150  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

True story. Replace with DOT-3, 4, or 5.1 but not DOT-5
What's bad about plain old 5? Only curious lol



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