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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
From: Clear Lake, TX
Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm not upgrading the manifold. I just got another one and painted it, because the one on it got a crack.
The manifold and gasket appear to be original, and is nearly 140k miles now
Is there any gasket sealants I can use to help? I know it's probably a moot point because of the extreme heat from the header.
The manifold and gasket appear to be original, and is nearly 140k miles now
Is there any gasket sealants I can use to help? I know it's probably a moot point because of the extreme heat from the header.
I have no knowledge of what sealant work work for you. Not saying there is not one, I've never used on for that application.
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I'm not upgrading the manifold. I just got another one and painted it, because the one on it got a crack.
The manifold and gasket appear to be original, and is nearly 140k miles now
Is there any gasket sealants I can use to help? I know it's probably a moot point because of the extreme heat from the header.
The manifold and gasket appear to be original, and is nearly 140k miles now
Is there any gasket sealants I can use to help? I know it's probably a moot point because of the extreme heat from the header.

Also you can use Permatex Copper Spray on the surfaces if the new gasket's instructions say you can (some are already coated). I don't recommend spraying this into your valves lol
So I have a broken stud on my valve cover. I've been trying to grab it with pliers but it won't budge. I'm thinking of welding a nut onto what's left of the stud but am wary about welding so near the injectors and exposed oil since the cover is off. Have any of you guys removed the valve cover bolt this way or you guys have any other ideas?
Member


Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 210
Likes: 18
From: Plymouth, England
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
My '98 4.0 got really hot (about 220) the other day after town driving, then hard driving, then 20 minutes crawling up hill in 4 lo, then idling for another 20 minutes as I was using the headlights to set up camp.
I could hear through the exhaust it was slightly missing after idling a while. I waited for the e-fan to go off then I shut it down.
2 hours later, after the ambient temp had rapidly cooled to freezing, the XJ would barely start, but ran fine once it did.
What caused that, and is it something to worry about?
I could hear through the exhaust it was slightly missing after idling a while. I waited for the e-fan to go off then I shut it down.
2 hours later, after the ambient temp had rapidly cooled to freezing, the XJ would barely start, but ran fine once it did.
What caused that, and is it something to worry about?
I've tried ob blaster and nutz off which our equivalent of kroil over here. I've got one of those cheap harbor freight 90 amp welders which gets most of my jobs done since I'm no pro by any means. It just throws a lot of sparks
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
Likes: 22
From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
Likes: 22
From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Pb blaster doesn't even compare to kroil. Not even close
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
^This^
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=350800
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=350800
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
^This^ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=350800 They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. None ..................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................. 238 pounds PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.




