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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 12:40 PM
  #40636  
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I would replace it. Too much trouble to re-do.
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 12:51 PM
  #40637  
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From: Clear Lake, TX
Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
I'm not upgrading the manifold. I just got another one and painted it, because the one on it got a crack.

The manifold and gasket appear to be original, and is nearly 140k miles now

Is there any gasket sealants I can use to help? I know it's probably a moot point because of the extreme heat from the header.
Your exhaust could be cracked also if it looks original. After pulling the intake you are actually more than half way to pulling the exhaust manifold. It's only a few more bolts and then it's off. If you plan on keeping the Jeep for a long time why not go ahead and change the gasket and check the exhaust for cracks. If your exhaust is cracked and you have to pull everything off again to get to it your gonna kick yourself for not doing when you had the intake off.

I have no knowledge of what sealant work work for you. Not saying there is not one, I've never used on for that application.
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 12:53 PM
  #40638  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
I'm not upgrading the manifold. I just got another one and painted it, because the one on it got a crack.

The manifold and gasket appear to be original, and is nearly 140k miles now

Is there any gasket sealants I can use to help? I know it's probably a moot point because of the extreme heat from the header.
Replace it. Like any gasket they dry and form over time. Being pressed into the part is essential to create a good seal. Reuse of the manifold gasket is a great way to get a 3000 RPM idle on first startup

Also you can use Permatex Copper Spray on the surfaces if the new gasket's instructions say you can (some are already coated). I don't recommend spraying this into your valves lol
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 01:00 PM
  #40639  
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From: west chester, pa
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Ah I guess I ll replace it. Any tips or hints that I should do while I'm at it?
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 01:24 PM
  #40640  
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So I have a broken stud on my valve cover. I've been trying to grab it with pliers but it won't budge. I'm thinking of welding a nut onto what's left of the stud but am wary about welding so near the injectors and exposed oil since the cover is off. Have any of you guys removed the valve cover bolt this way or you guys have any other ideas?
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 01:41 PM
  #40641  
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If u are capable of TIG welding, u won't create any sparks that can carry splatter into critical areas.

If not, have u tried any penetrating oils? Such as kroil
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 01:44 PM
  #40642  
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From: Plymouth, England
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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My '98 4.0 got really hot (about 220) the other day after town driving, then hard driving, then 20 minutes crawling up hill in 4 lo, then idling for another 20 minutes as I was using the headlights to set up camp.

I could hear through the exhaust it was slightly missing after idling a while. I waited for the e-fan to go off then I shut it down.

2 hours later, after the ambient temp had rapidly cooled to freezing, the XJ would barely start, but ran fine once it did.


What caused that, and is it something to worry about?
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 01:48 PM
  #40643  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
If u are capable of TIG welding, u won't create any sparks that can carry splatter into critical areas.

If not, have u tried any penetrating oils? Such as kroil

I've tried ob blaster and nutz off which our equivalent of kroil over here. I've got one of those cheap harbor freight 90 amp welders which gets most of my jobs done since I'm no pro by any means. It just throws a lot of sparks
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 01:49 PM
  #40644  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Ah I guess I ll replace it. Any tips or hints that I should do while I'm at it?
Check the row of welsh plugs below the exhaust manifold. Replace if weeping or corroded.
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 01:52 PM
  #40645  
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Originally Posted by stitch702
It just throws a lot of sparks
HA, I end up with comet craters and space debris when welding.

Last edited by SteveMongr; Mar 6, 2014 at 01:55 PM.
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 02:01 PM
  #40646  
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Originally Posted by stitch702
I've tried ob blaster and nutz off which our equivalent of kroil over here. I've got one of those cheap harbor freight 90 amp welders which gets most of my jobs done since I'm no pro by any means. It just throws a lot of sparks
Pb blaster doesn't even compare to kroil. Not even close
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 02:04 PM
  #40647  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Pb blaster doesn't even compare to kroil. Not even close

I'll give it a try then if I can find it here
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 02:14 PM
  #40648  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Pb blaster doesn't even compare to kroil. Not even close
^This^

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=350800

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 02:24 PM
  #40649  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
^This^ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=350800 They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. None ..................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................. 238 pounds PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
any specific kind of ATF?
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 02:26 PM
  #40650  
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And thank u for that information. I never knew they did research on it



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