Oh no sorry. I pulled the relay/flasher off and cleaned the contacts.

 

Oh lol.

 

What's the wire that connects my distributor cap to the electrical system called? It doesn't come in a standard pack of spark wires. It was alllll coked up when I just replaced my cap & rotor.

 

Coil to cap wire? Came in every wire kit I've ever opened... What kind of Dollar Tree junk did you get?

 

Just looked through my old shopping history and it looks like I got a box of 8. Maybe I just forgot to replace it last year?

Second question:

Does anyone know what I did with the 2 spare wires I didn't use from this box I purchased in May 2013???

 

I have been fighting the good fight with my '88 XJ's brake lights. At first, they did not work at all, but I found that the fuse box has some issues for that specific fuse and I have somewhat fixed that part. Bought new bulbs. Bought and installed the brake light switch that hooks on the brake pedal. Still though, the lights are now permanently on.

It is a fairly simple circuit, suggests the Haynes manual, but this XJ has had some electrical butchery done to it before I came into possession of the truck so I am not sure where to look next to fix this.

Anybody else fight this fight and win? How?

(Because the brake lights are now permanently on, I must remove the fuse when I turn off the ignition...and then plug the fuse back in when I want to drive somewhere. A bit frustrating, as you might imagine...)

 

Anyone with experience changing brakelines in a 1989 jeep cherokee

Are all the main hard line the same width? 3/16?
I know the adapters are different but I ant tell I the actual lines are the same width
Thanks!

 

Make sure you don't overtighten the pivot bolt. The switch needs some movement.

 

How much play(twisting) should there be in the front and rear driveshafts?
I can twist the rear driveshaft about 1/2-3/4in, and the front about 1 inch.
As far as I can tell, everything is in good shape.

I notice sometimes when I accelerate from a dead stop, there is a clunk coming from the rear end. I have yet to check all my suspension components, but I believe it started happening more after I removed the rear swaybar.

 

Is your slip yoke greased or self lubricating? Some twist is fine on flat ground with the transmission in park and the ebrake on. What you don't want is slop in your driveline. If you can push or pull sideways on your driveshaft and it moves, thats bad.

There's probably close to 700 things that could be clunking when you accelerate. jack 'er up, Stick yer 'ed under and start checking things fer play.

 

I hope I'm posting this in the right spot...
I have a 94 Cherokee Sport, Automatic, 4WD, 6cyl 4.0 with 210K. I bought it in Jan '14 with 198K.
Just recently switched to AMSOil XL synthetic for the engine and am AMAZED at how smoothly it runs. I'd kind of like to switch the transmission and transfer case to AMSOil's synthetic ATF, but poking around here is giving me 2nd thoughts. I don't know if the ATF has ever been changed.
1. Think it's safe to switch or better to just drain & fill with regular ATF?
2. If regular ATF, what should I get?
3. If safe to switch, do I have to flush? I won't be comfortable flushing myself, so I'd have to find someone who does it without the reverse pressure method I've seen in a few feeds.
This forum has gotten me through a LOT. Thanks!

 

stick with DM III fluid.

 

I'm not sure, how do I check? I have a '96.

Yeah thats how I tested it. No play any other ways, just twists.

I'll do that today.

 

What about the transfer case? It looks easy enough to drain & fill, and I know I'm putting it through hell until I can get and install an SYE. Any problems with switching to synthetic there?

 

no u can use ATF in the t case, no problem