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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Seasoned Member


Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 328
Likes: 5
From: Dominican Republic
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
I'd like to stick something a little more comfortable in the XJ. Are there any other make/model seats that are pretty much bolt ins?
Electric isn't necessary.
I'm a big guy - 6'4" 300 lbs.
Electric isn't necessary.
I'm a big guy - 6'4" 300 lbs.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
ZJ or WJ seats. I have WJ leather seats in mine. I'm 6'2" and barely have enough headroom. Just a heads up. They're comfy as hell though.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Muncie, Indiana
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Is it ok to have 4.10 gears in the front and 4.11 in the rear? Or vice-versa? Ive read that that minimum of a difference isn't going to affect anything but I just want to double check.
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
How much play(twisting) should there be in the front and rear driveshafts?
I can twist the rear driveshaft about 1/2-3/4in, and the front about 1 inch.
As far as I can tell, everything is in good shape.
I notice sometimes when I accelerate from a dead stop, there is a clunk coming from the rear end. I have yet to check all my suspension components, but I believe it started happening more after I removed the rear swaybar.
I can twist the rear driveshaft about 1/2-3/4in, and the front about 1 inch.
As far as I can tell, everything is in good shape.
I notice sometimes when I accelerate from a dead stop, there is a clunk coming from the rear end. I have yet to check all my suspension components, but I believe it started happening more after I removed the rear swaybar.
I hope I'm posting this in the right spot...
I have a 94 Cherokee Sport, Automatic, 4WD, 6cyl 4.0 with 210K. I bought it in Jan '14 with 198K.
Just recently switched to AMSOil XL synthetic for the engine and am AMAZED at how smoothly it runs. I'd kind of like to switch the transmission and transfer case to AMSOil's synthetic ATF, but poking around here is giving me 2nd thoughts. I don't know if the ATF has ever been changed.
1. Think it's safe to switch or better to just drain & fill with regular ATF?
2. If regular ATF, what should I get?
3. If safe to switch, do I have to flush? I won't be comfortable flushing myself, so I'd have to find someone who does it without the reverse pressure method I've seen in a few feeds.
This forum has gotten me through a LOT. Thanks!
I have a 94 Cherokee Sport, Automatic, 4WD, 6cyl 4.0 with 210K. I bought it in Jan '14 with 198K.
Just recently switched to AMSOil XL synthetic for the engine and am AMAZED at how smoothly it runs. I'd kind of like to switch the transmission and transfer case to AMSOil's synthetic ATF, but poking around here is giving me 2nd thoughts. I don't know if the ATF has ever been changed.
1. Think it's safe to switch or better to just drain & fill with regular ATF?
2. If regular ATF, what should I get?
3. If safe to switch, do I have to flush? I won't be comfortable flushing myself, so I'd have to find someone who does it without the reverse pressure method I've seen in a few feeds.
This forum has gotten me through a LOT. Thanks!
When shopping for a fluid for the AW4 automatic transmissions, make sure that it meets one or more of the following standards:
- Dexron III or later
- Mercon or later
- JWS-3309
Castrol Transmax Synthetic Multi-Vehicle is a great example of what appears to be an "ideal fluid" as it is certified in the Dexron and Mercon families as well as recommended for use in JWS-3309. No Chrysler ATF+3 or Type F funny business, so you know it's going to be reliable, not a "multi-vehicle" ATF that has every single transmission ever built listed as 'suggested application'.
NP231 isn't picky. Run the same or run whatever. New Process Gear certified the NP231 under every major ATF standard since the mid-'80s so have fun!
In your 4.0L, no. The PCB does not have the pin equipped for it. Some have speculated that you MIGHT be able to solder one on, but do you really wanna solder your own 1999 4.0 manual shift PCM? lol
Same difference. Depending on axles that's just the way it is. You're not supposed to use 4WD on pavement anyway so don't worry about it.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
They're the same thing, like 3.54/3.55 or others. I usually notice a difference when different brands use the 'same' ratio during the same production period
Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: Mississauga, Ontario
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I6
About 1/4" rotational play is what I've noticed on what I think is my "okay" driveline. I have vibes from... something... but I can guarantee that that much slop is absolutely unacceptable. Time to replace some U joints and grease that slip yoke. 1996 should be the first year of the greaseable one.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 8
From: San Jose
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Seasoned Member


Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 328
Likes: 5
From: Dominican Republic
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
I'm liking the leather idea, but then I'd have to change the rear seat as well.
Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: Mississauga, Ontario
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I6
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0




