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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 01:43 PM
  #46051  
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Default What other seats work in my 1990 Cherokee XJ

I'd like to stick something a little more comfortable in the XJ. Are there any other make/model seats that are pretty much bolt ins?

Electric isn't necessary.

I'm a big guy - 6'4" 300 lbs.
Old Oct 15, 2014 | 01:44 PM
  #46052  
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ZJ seat swap.
Old Oct 15, 2014 | 02:10 PM
  #46053  
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Originally Posted by jdjonesdr
I'd like to stick something a little more comfortable in the XJ. Are there any other make/model seats that are pretty much bolt ins?

Electric isn't necessary.

I'm a big guy - 6'4" 300 lbs.
ZJ or WJ seats. I have WJ leather seats in mine. I'm 6'2" and barely have enough headroom. Just a heads up. They're comfy as hell though.
Old Oct 15, 2014 | 03:23 PM
  #46054  
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Would the high idle switch mod work on my 99 5 SPD?
Old Oct 15, 2014 | 03:26 PM
  #46055  
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Originally Posted by jdjonesdr
I'd like to stick something a little more comfortable in the XJ. Are there any other make/model seats that are pretty much bolt ins?

Electric isn't necessary.

I'm a big guy - 6'4" 300 lbs.
Maybe a sunroof? JK.
Old Oct 15, 2014 | 03:40 PM
  #46056  
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Default Gears

Is it ok to have 4.10 gears in the front and 4.11 in the rear? Or vice-versa? Ive read that that minimum of a difference isn't going to affect anything but I just want to double check.
Old Oct 15, 2014 | 03:55 PM
  #46057  
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Originally Posted by Wolf427
How much play(twisting) should there be in the front and rear driveshafts?
I can twist the rear driveshaft about 1/2-3/4in, and the front about 1 inch.
As far as I can tell, everything is in good shape.

I notice sometimes when I accelerate from a dead stop, there is a clunk coming from the rear end. I have yet to check all my suspension components, but I believe it started happening more after I removed the rear swaybar.
About 1/4" rotational play is what I've noticed on what I think is my "okay" driveline. I have vibes from... something... but I can guarantee that that much slop is absolutely unacceptable. Time to replace some U joints and grease that slip yoke. 1996 should be the first year of the greaseable one.

Originally Posted by ASEllis
I hope I'm posting this in the right spot...
I have a 94 Cherokee Sport, Automatic, 4WD, 6cyl 4.0 with 210K. I bought it in Jan '14 with 198K.
Just recently switched to AMSOil XL synthetic for the engine and am AMAZED at how smoothly it runs. I'd kind of like to switch the transmission and transfer case to AMSOil's synthetic ATF, but poking around here is giving me 2nd thoughts. I don't know if the ATF has ever been changed.
1. Think it's safe to switch or better to just drain & fill with regular ATF?
2. If regular ATF, what should I get?
3. If safe to switch, do I have to flush? I won't be comfortable flushing myself, so I'd have to find someone who does it without the reverse pressure method I've seen in a few feeds.
This forum has gotten me through a LOT. Thanks!
Yep a lot of people on here have great luck with AMSOIL's ATF as well as the Mobil 1 product.

When shopping for a fluid for the AW4 automatic transmissions, make sure that it meets one or more of the following standards:

- Dexron III or later
- Mercon or later
- JWS-3309

Castrol Transmax Synthetic Multi-Vehicle is a great example of what appears to be an "ideal fluid" as it is certified in the Dexron and Mercon families as well as recommended for use in JWS-3309. No Chrysler ATF+3 or Type F funny business, so you know it's going to be reliable, not a "multi-vehicle" ATF that has every single transmission ever built listed as 'suggested application'.

Originally Posted by ASEllis
What about the transfer case? It looks easy enough to drain & fill, and I know I'm putting it through hell until I can get and install an SYE. Any problems with switching to synthetic there?
Synthetic should be considered very important to the transfer case. The planetary gears are ALWAYS spinning (just not always under load), the fluid capacity is rather low and there is NO cooling system. In fact if neglected ATF actually evaporates out of these things... do a search for NP231s running dry and blowing up if you want proof...

NP231 isn't picky. Run the same or run whatever. New Process Gear certified the NP231 under every major ATF standard since the mid-'80s so have fun!

Originally Posted by XJwonders
Would the high idle switch mod work on my 99 5 SPD?
In your 4.0L, no. The PCB does not have the pin equipped for it. Some have speculated that you MIGHT be able to solder one on, but do you really wanna solder your own 1999 4.0 manual shift PCM? lol

Originally Posted by ksrummel
Is it ok to have 4.10 gears in the front and 4.11 in the rear? Or vice-versa? Ive read that that minimum of a difference isn't going to affect anything but I just want to double check.
Same difference. Depending on axles that's just the way it is. You're not supposed to use 4WD on pavement anyway so don't worry about it.
Old Oct 15, 2014 | 04:29 PM
  #46058  
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Originally Posted by ksrummel
Is it ok to have 4.10 gears in the front and 4.11 in the rear? Or vice-versa? Ive read that that minimum of a difference isn't going to affect anything but I just want to double check.
They're the same thing, like 3.54/3.55 or others. I usually notice a difference when different brands use the 'same' ratio during the same production period
Old Oct 15, 2014 | 06:43 PM
  #46059  
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Originally Posted by salad
About 1/4" rotational play is what I've noticed on what I think is my "okay" driveline. I have vibes from... something... but I can guarantee that that much slop is absolutely unacceptable. Time to replace some U joints and grease that slip yoke. 1996 should be the first year of the greaseable one.
I'll take a look tomorrow morning. I didn't notice and play in the actual driveshaft though.
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 01:21 AM
  #46060  
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Originally Posted by Wolf427

I'm not sure, how do I check? I have a '96.

Yeah thats how I tested it. No play any other ways, just twists.

I'll do that today.
It either has a boot on it, (unless it was taken off) and will look like a bare splined shaft, or it has a seal housing that it slides into.
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 05:31 AM
  #46061  
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Default

Originally Posted by XJwonders
ZJ seat swap.
Originally Posted by DieselD
ZJ or WJ seats. I have WJ leather seats in mine. I'm 6'2" and barely have enough headroom. Just a heads up. They're comfy as hell though.
So either of these would be a straight bolt in, or would they need to be adapted/modified?

I'm liking the leather idea, but then I'd have to change the rear seat as well.
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 08:21 AM
  #46062  
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Driver door is only opening half way. Any idea what could be wrong? Feels like it is stuck on something. 1990 Cherokee.
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 08:24 AM
  #46063  
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Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep
It either has a boot on it, (unless it was taken off) and will look like a bare splined shaft, or it has a seal housing that it slides into.
Yeah it has a boot on it.
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 08:25 AM
  #46064  
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Originally Posted by rmoore1031
Driver door is only opening half way. Any idea what could be wrong? Feels like it is stuck on something. 1990 Cherokee.
The limiter piece is gummed up or worn badly.
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 08:33 AM
  #46065  
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Thank you for the gear input!



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