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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 08:47 AM
  #46066  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by ksrummel
Thank you for the gear input!
He's always clowning around.............
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 08:47 AM
  #46067  
rmoore1031's Avatar
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From: Bentonville, AR
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

The limiter piece is gummed up or worn badly.
Thanks cruiser. Is the limiter piece the metal bar that retracts? I tried to spray it down with liquid wrench.
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 08:49 AM
  #46068  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by rmoore1031
Thanks cruiser. Is the limiter piece the metal bar that retracts? I tried to spray it down with liquid wrench.
Yes.

It can be removed pretty easily. Gotta knock the roll pin out at the body side and then unbolt it from outside the door, and remove the limiter from inside the door.
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 09:11 AM
  #46069  
Roler's Avatar
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From: Australia
Year: 1997 (RHD)
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 ltr
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Yes.

It can be removed pretty easily. Gotta knock the roll pin out at the body side and then unbolt it from outside the door, and remove the limiter from inside the door.
And all that, with the door half open
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 09:20 AM
  #46070  
rmoore1031's Avatar
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From: Bentonville, AR
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Yes.

It can be removed pretty easily. Gotta knock the roll pin out at the body side and then unbolt it from outside the door, and remove the limiter from inside the door.
Cruiser you right on the money again! I popped the pin out and noticed that one of the bolts/nuts is missing. Using a zip tie for the moment. I have a replacement door for a different issue.

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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 09:22 AM
  #46071  
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by jdjonesdr

So either of these would be a straight bolt in, or would they need to be adapted/modified?

I'm liking the leather idea, but then I'd have to change the rear seat as well.
I have the leather and didn't change the back seat. Its cloth. Really doesn't look bad because the colors match up.

You need to swap the XJ seat brackets to the WJ/ZJ seats then they bolt in.
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 09:52 AM
  #46072  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
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Would a radiator from a 96 fit on a 99?
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 10:26 AM
  #46073  
DieselD's Avatar
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Would a radiator from a 96 fit on a 99?
It should.
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 01:03 PM
  #46074  
CJG's Avatar
CJG
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From: Pasadena, Ca.
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L 4-cyl.
Default Muffler Replacement Question...

I need a new muffler because the Jeep sounds like everything past the manifold fell off. (Okay, I needed a new muffler a year ago when the Jeep only sounded like a motorboat.) I figured I'd do it myself but when I recently had my car aligned the mechanic said my muffler needed to be WELDED in place. That didn't sound right to me so I went under the Jeep and saw two U-bolts at either end of the muffler which looked simple enough to remove but then I saw weld marks further down the exhaust pipe.

Am I going to have to deal with any welding or just undo the U-blots, slip off the old muffler and replace?

Also, anything wrong with going with a low-cost muffler? Don't care about the exhaust note, just want to stop turning heads a 1/4 mile away...

If no welding is required and I can do it myself, any tricks to making the job easier?

Thanks in advance.

CJ
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 01:23 PM
  #46075  
884x4's Avatar
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From: Justin, TEXAS
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by CJG
I need a new muffler because the Jeep sounds like everything past the manifold fell off. (Okay, I needed a new muffler a year ago when the Jeep only sounded like a motorboat.) I figured I'd do it myself but when I recently had my car aligned the mechanic said my muffler needed to be WELDED in place. That didn't sound right to me so I went under the Jeep and saw two U-bolts at either end of the muffler which looked simple enough to remove but then I saw weld marks further down the exhaust pipe.

Am I going to have to deal with any welding or just undo the U-blots, slip off the old muffler and replace?

Also, anything wrong with going with a low-cost muffler? Don't care about the exhaust note, just want to stop turning heads a 1/4 mile away...

If no welding is required and I can do it myself, any tricks to making the job easier?

Thanks in advance.

CJ
It is an absolute pain in the *** to try to remove clamped sections of exhaust. If you can get it off, sure clamp it. but welding the peices together is always the best option.
For example, when I had little mechanical experience, I took off all the exhaust from the cat back. It took a come along strapped to the rear bumper along with hooked to the old muffler to get it off, it was clamped previously. In all that, it bend my downpipe about 3" back the way I was pulling
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 03:26 PM
  #46076  
ITTs_Cole's Avatar
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From: Hagerstown MD
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 w/Flux Capacitor
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Originally Posted by CJG
I need a new muffler because the Jeep sounds like everything past the manifold fell off. (Okay, I needed a new muffler a year ago when the Jeep only sounded like a motorboat.) I figured I'd do it myself but when I recently had my car aligned the mechanic said my muffler needed to be WELDED in place. That didn't sound right to me so I went under the Jeep and saw two U-bolts at either end of the muffler which looked simple enough to remove but then I saw weld marks further down the exhaust pipe.

Am I going to have to deal with any welding or just undo the U-blots, slip off the old muffler and replace?

Also, anything wrong with going with a low-cost muffler? Don't care about the exhaust note, just want to stop turning heads a 1/4 mile away...

If no welding is required and I can do it myself, any tricks to making the job easier?

Thanks in advance.

CJ
Just clamp it.

Nothing wrong with a cheap-o

Anti-Seize all the things.
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 05:35 PM
  #46077  
ThatPurpleXJ's Avatar
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From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Found a powertrax locker for my d30 on Craigslist and may be buying it. Question, I'm on 3.55 gears now but will be going to 4.56 or 4.88 within the next month or two. With the new carrier can I still use the same locker?
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 06:02 PM
  #46078  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ
Found a powertrax locker for my d30 on Craigslist and may be buying it. Question, I'm on 3.55 gears now but will be going to 4.56 or 4.88 within the next month or two. With the new carrier can I still use the same locker?
Yes, 3.55:1 and up is the carrier break. It's only below that ratio that you need to be concerned (us guys with 3.07:1).
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 06:16 PM
  #46079  
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 896
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From: Phoenix, A-to-Z
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Howdy folks!

The little elbow on the front of the valve cover of my '88 XJ 4.0 is all jacked up, and had been glued in with gasket maker goo. I want to replace it but I can't find an appropriate part at Autozone... Since I have seen some other 4.0 Jeep motors with a tiny cone filter there instead of the hose from the airobox, I thought I might just do that because it is like 10 bucks and a bit of elbow grease, har har...

What are the downsides of doing this, if any?

I am aware of older motors having an oil blow-by issue, but the motor in mine had been rebuilt perhaps 20k ago and such blow-by shouldn't be a huge issue.... (hopefully)

Thanks for the insight you have!
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 06:30 PM
  #46080  
kuzican's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,468
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From: Forest Hill, Maryland
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Does anybody have any clue as to what would make the Jeep idle/lope like this?




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