indeed I plan to get a boostwerks linkage

By the way I just put up a thread in miscellaneous because app wouldn't let me post it in the wanted section, so could one if the mods please move it? Thanks!

 

Are the holes for the window motor already drilled into the frame of the door?

 

I replied because I thought I recognized the connector. A swing and a miss on that one. Both of the Jeeps I have owned have been OBD-1. Yours is an OBD-II.
Any furthher advice would be like the blind leading the hard-of-seeing. The only real advice I have is to get a FSM from Pacific Coast Manuals, http://www.pacificcoastmanuals.com/. Wish I could have been more help.

 

My 99 XJ started this weird thing. My turn signal "clicker" goes off on its own randomly. Also clicks a whole bunch after using the signal. Where is it? I know somewhere under the dash but I don't know what it looks like. If I pull it out, would I have any I'll effects besides not having a noise when I use my signal?

 

Haha XJs do this too?

Over time the metal contacts wear down and the filings turn dielectric lubricant into fully electric lubricant. What happens is after using the signal this conductive grease allows electricity to jump the gap. The noise is the turn signal relay being energized. My VW Golf does this.

Clean the multifunction switch out. On my Golf I just jammed some contact cleaner in there and let it rip.

 

OK. Makes sense. I'm on vacation and didn't bring my garage with me lol.

If I find some help with my other issue:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f42/va...e-help-198888/

I may take care of this ticker problem too it gets annoying and Friday I'll be driving for about 14-16 hrs (~750 miles)

 

Hello everyone,

Over the past couple of weeks I have entered my journey into converting my 2wd into a 4wd a long desired thing I have been wanting to do for years. One failed donor turned out to be a waste of money a year and half ago and this year I purchased a good donor at an auction. I've learned so much from this conversion which was part of what I wanted, including welding, and other mechanic tricks. Both front and rear axles are now in my original jeep and this weekend I removed the transmission and transfer case off the donor. Long winded to get to my my question... Should I replace the seals on the donor transmission? And I don't mean the pan seal. I mean should I partially get it apart and put new sealant between the pieces (transfer case chain cover, yolk, tranny/transfer joint) or is it time wasted? Thanks for the input.

 

Jeep Grand Cherokee 1994, just turned 190,000 miles. Did a 1650 mile jaunt this summer, NYC, Vermont, Canada, Vermont, Connecticut, Vermont, NYC. Car ran great with no issues, except the "3000 miles to service" panel reset itself twice and once it did it while I was driving. I had to reset the clock.

My question is: I need to replace upper and lower control arms. Is there a preferable make? Auto Parts Warehouse has them for 32 dollars. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...tt=Control+Arm
Would appreciate your insite on this. Thanks, Thomas

 

One more quick question.
My parking brake doesn't work 100%. I noticed underneath that the two brake cables coming from the drums are different lengths. Is that normal? I assume it isn't.
Now if it isn't, what should I do?

 

In what way? The cables have to be different lengths because the parking brake equalizer isn't in the middle of the vehicle.

Most likely your drum brakes just need adjusting.

 

Isn't it in the middle though?
Well when I engage the parking brake fully, one cable is tight, and the other is loose.
I tried adjusting them, but they need a rebuild pretty bad.

 

emergency lever is in middle but the equalizer is located on the drivers side frame rail just forward of rear tire. So thus the cable going from there to passenger side of rear axle is longer than the one going to drivers side of rear axle

 

Oh okay. Time for a rebuild!

 

What symptoms would a bad map sensor be? What symptoms would a bad upstream O2 sensor be?

 

Well my jeep stumbles until it warms up. I'll start it up and it sounds like a motorcycle popping when you give it gas. I'll drive it down the road and after about 30 seconds it clears up and runs fine. smells like gas when it stumbles. Also if I cut it off and cut it back on it won't start up. It'll get up to 200 rpm and just die. But if I try and start it again it runs and still stumbles. I've replaced the IAC, TPS, cleaned the injectors, done a complete tuneup.