Thanks. I figured it out after I posted. I didn't realize one connector was gray the other was black.

 

Follow up.
Drilled holes for the front bolts. I got one bolt into the nut on each side, but there was still one on each side with the old bolts stuck in. So I drilled holes and just threw in some bolts, no nuts. I know its not going to be safe, but its all I can do right now.
As for the back bolts, I'm going to grind them off today, and just use a nut and bolt.

 

HI all, first post to this forum, sorry its problem related.

I own a 98 Cherokee XJ, 2 door, 115k miles, manual and pretty much stock down to the original dealer sticker. Ive only had it a few months but it is hands down the best car Ive owned.

The back story: I recently had some issues shifting into 4-low and found out my transmission was cockeyed due to a bent cross member. Fixed it and the next day the battery died (happens a lot in AZ). I had some issues getting the engine to turn over even when it was getting jumped because the battery was so dead. The engine would turn but really slow and painful sounding

As soon as I got it started a new grinding/rubbing noise appeared in my tranny. It only occurs when I let the clutch out in 1st gear, and only when getting started from a complete stop, but it is very noticeable when it happens.

I'm wondering if it is a result of me trying to crank the engine hard to get it to start, or if it is related to the transmission being put back to straight (although there was no sound happening in the 10 miles i drove it after replacing the cross member).

If anyone has experienced this before, any advice would be sincerely appreciated.

 

I'd vote for a drivetrain alignment issue resulting from the bent transmission crossmember.

 

That was my initial reaction, that it might be from the drive shaft coming in at an angle to the rear diff for so long. But the sound is definitely coming from in front of and next to the driver, either the engine or where the transmission connects. The U joints and the rear drive shaft dont look like they're messed up in any way.

 

OK I need some help my 1998 Jeep XJ 4.0. For that past few days it's been idling rear rough, almost like it's missing. I start it up and it sounds like a motorcycle popping while it's running. I start driving it and as soon as I get up to speed it runs fine. If I come to a stop light and idle there for a bit it'll start acting up again. Also it smells like gas. This all started happening after I replaced my radiator and clutch fan.

 

not sure what the problem is man, similar thing was happening to me. It would talk two or three times of holding the ignition to get it to start and then it would idle rough till I drove it like 10 ft. But after I romped hella hard out on the trail it stopped. I knocked off my catalytic convertor, dented the **** out of the body and the whole time whenever I stopped for a break it got better and better at starting. Now it's first crank every time. Good luck with your problem though man

 

Well the problem turned out to be the coolant temperature sensor

 

easy fix!

 

Need some input. I want to do the cut and fold on the rear quarters, but the driver's side quarter is smashed - has been since before I got it. Should I attempt to bend the sheet metal into submission while doing the cut and fold or just go ahead and cut it all out and weld in new sheet metal?

Pics for reference:

 

how many cranks to start is normal? Im aware every car is different, every starter is different, and string isnt the same length, but this is just for comparative purposes.

 

Interesting question.... I don't even think I can count mine, it starts right up. I'd say a crank to a crank and a half I guess.

 

Royally f'd up the other day. I was fixing the trunk/cargo bay with a sheet of 18g steel, and I was drilling holes and using pop-rivets. I swear I had enough clearance to not drill into the tank. Well I was wrong. Noticed a strong smell of gas after I put some in the tank, decided to drop it this morning. Found five 1/8th in holes. Ended up using pop-rivets with Goop automotive to seal it. I'm pretty sure the goop isn't fuel resistant though.

 

I had a similar issue for one day, rough start, had to floor accelerator to get it to start and it smelled rich. CEL code that related to the coolant sender and later an injector, and the e-fan would come on at cold start-up sometimes.
I have the manual override switch for the e-fan which usually will trigger that CEL code when used.
After researching and working on diagnosis I was leaning towards coolant sensor also.
Glad you fixed it with something simple and 'seemingly' unrelated.

 

Auto parts store has a putty that is made for gas tanks. I would start sourcing another tank.
Next time, use a collar on the drill bit that sets the maximum depth.
Glad nothing worse happened, like a spark.

After I upgraded injectors, jeep would start nearly the instant the starter engaged. Almost too easy.