So does your seat come out with little to no effort then?
I like the smacked in the nuts idea, easy fix there! Haha

 

Yep. On here you'll find a writeup called a "fluid exchange". You can let the transmission's pump do the work for you. On these vehicles you can't just drain and fill, run it, and then do a drain and fill again and expect it to get clean. The oil gets mixed up in the pan and torque converter.

Hehe that's pretty normal up here... PB Blaster for about a week might've helped ya... or not

The front two are proper nuts welded inside the seat bracket. Your options amount to cutting up your floor and drilling out the bolts. You'd then need to tap the larger hole and use a larger bolt.

The rear one is a rivnut in the floor cross-member. Crawl underneath and you'll see it. You can just grind it off and use a normal nut in its place.

 

I got lots troubles but in the end i found the solution for that problems. I have learned lot from these problems and become able to solve out problems occurring in these days.

 

Ya, PB didn't work unfortunately. Damn, I just finished the floor. Don't want to mess with it again.
I guess I'll cut the rear one out and use a nut.
Not sure about the fronts now

 

I have little tiny green light near the headlight switch on my 2000 cherokee sport. Anyone know what this is for? It has never come on. If no one knows I will snap a picture when i get a chance.

 

Yes, shift in at 30-35 letting off the gas. Shift out slowing down from 0-5 off the gas.

 

Never come on? You sure it's green?

My XJ had a crappy immobilizer installed by a dealer or some third party shop. Such a light indicates some kind of aftermarket "security" system. In my case there was a module that required the brake and clutch to be depressed to start.

 

Mine was red

 

Don't slow down. Shift out the exact same way as in. Same speed

 

What is spifting?

A new technique that supercedes this?

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in ITALICS are mine.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I let off the gas, throw the lever, and then tap the gas and let off.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

To shift out of 4L, shift the transmission into neutral with the vehicle stopped, shift the transfer case lever to 2H, then to D if you have an automatic, or into first gear with a manual, and continue on.


Revised 01-31-2014

 

Texting and working a double leads to wierd words coming out lol.

 

no matter how i shift it sticks. ive tried at speed, stopped low speed high throwing it in neutral...what it comes down to is me going in reverse till i feel *THUD* "oh i guess im out of 4wd"

 

All same size tires? Pressures the same?

How's the transfer case fluid level?

 

Transmission crossmember good?

 

The O2S electrical connectors are different. Just match them up to the body harness connectors.