Yes I'm serious, do I look jokious? No, in reality, fun aside, I do want 2.xx gears, I am going to run 16+psi intercooled (obviously) all of the necessary paraphernalia will be happening here the week after next. I have a cam, timing set, MLS head gasket, studs, springs, and I put in a stage 3 clutch a couple of weeks ago since my throwout bearing went to hell.
My brother has a 2008 GT Mustang you see.......
I have already put in 34 lbs/hr injectors, and EFI controlled by a Mega Squirt MS3X. Looks pretty wild to pop the hood on an '88 renix era jeep and see coil near plug mounted on the manifold.
2.42 gears would allow me to go pretty well on the road, and extend the life of everything except tires.
The target rwhp is 400, torque would be close to 500 at the flywheel, maybe more, so gearing isn't the kinduv thing I need more of

 

All I can say is good luck finding 2.xx gears anywhere for any axle put under the XJ. I am unaware of any (usually everyone goes the opposite direction lol). Lowest I've seen is what's been mentioned, and that is the 3.07's.

 

Bigger rubber will solve that problem. Lowest I've seen easily available for XJ axles is 3.07s. Breaking even on fuel costs after installing custom gears that low will take a loooong time.

 

I believe I can buy gears for the front, and put matching gears in an 8.8 or 8.25, haven't priced it out yet, but I''ll have to do half of it regardless, so the fuel economy will pay out the other half eventually as I drive about 50k a year.

 

Not even six months unless the ring and pinion are over 500 bucks, I will HAVE to buy a set unless the explorer or ranger or whatever happens to have 3.55's already. I also HAVE to upgrade, if standard rigs upgrade their axle, then doubling the torque will cause problems, so my dana 35 is out, the front matters a great deal less.
Bigger rubber kills handling unless you go with bigger wheels, and that opens yet another can of maggots.

 

not to mention the offset on the cost of bigger rubber and wheels, my jeep thing is so far much cheaper than the mustang, and I'd like to keep it that way.

 

So you're trying to build a fuel-efficient race car??

 

Any idea as to what this is supposed to be plugged into?



Under the hood, back left corner. 2000 sport

 

could be worn tie rod ends.

 

For that area it looks emissions or air conditioner-y. Lets see to the right of it where the condenser and evap canister are.

 

and as usuall I didn't see the last 2 pages

 

I'll be honest and say I'm not sure, I want it very fast, faster than the standard-a police package- very cheap and easy to work on- a jeep Cherokee- good off road and to visit the family-so I can embarrass my brother's $20k mustang with my hunk-a-junk 80's Chrysler product suv.

And yes polyurethane-graphite bushings are next, not to mention a roll cage and 4-point harness

 

There's no ****ing way this is going in. See the gap in between the head and threads on the original sensor? That's very necessary, apparently.



A socket will not fit between the (larger than original) 9/16ths head and the lip on the valve cover.



See^

This is irritating the **** out of me. Am I supposed to get a 9/16ths combo wrench or something?

 

What transfer case is in a 1986 Jeep Comanche with 2.8 V6 and auto transmission?

 

Put an open end wrench on it and turn it a little bit at a time or slightly massage the valve cover lip just enough to clear a socket.