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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 10:26 PM
  #37051  
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Herp Derp Jerp
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Originally Posted by ridinclassic
Went to install my RE 1.5" lift shackles and I ran into trouble. First I snapped the head off of my 1/2" ratchet. Then tried a 125 psi air wrench but it wouldn't budge the bolt at all. Am I screwed?
Sounds pretty normal lol. I spent 3 days removing my original springs and shackles with a 5" grinder, 2' breaker bar, 3 cans of PB Blaster, pipe wrench, 3lb hammer, and MAP torch. But I didn't break anything that I left on the Jeep!

Tip: Give up on using original hardware. Buy new bolts.
Old Nov 6, 2013 | 10:30 PM
  #37052  
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I don't think I've asked a question in a while!

Do new steering stabilizers include the stud thing that connects it to the drag link? When I changed my drag link out I could not remove this stud from the old one.
Old Nov 6, 2013 | 10:52 PM
  #37053  
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Originally Posted by salad
I don't think I've asked a question in a while!

Do new steering stabilizers include the stud thing that connects it to the drag link? When I changed my drag link out I could not remove this stud from the old one.
Most aftermarket ones do
Old Nov 6, 2013 | 10:57 PM
  #37054  
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Thanks
Old Nov 6, 2013 | 11:18 PM
  #37055  
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Originally Posted by salad
I don't think I've asked a question in a while!

Do new steering stabilizers include the stud thing that connects it to the drag link? When I changed my drag link out I could not remove this stud from the old one.
Last time I bought one it did. Why a new stabilizer? Just go straight for hydro assist lol
Old Nov 6, 2013 | 11:20 PM
  #37056  
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On my 99

Should the ac compressor kicking on cause the voltage to drop a lot?
Old Nov 6, 2013 | 11:45 PM
  #37057  
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Originally Posted by DieselD
On my 99

Should the ac compressor kicking on cause the voltage to drop a lot?
Negative. Mine drops maybe half a volt (in-dash gauge, so who knows? ) before the regulator puts it back where it was.
Old Nov 6, 2013 | 11:48 PM
  #37058  
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Mine drops to like 12 on guage and pretty much stays there until the compressor kicks off or I start moving. When I moving and it kicks on I see nothing. Maybe the alternator isn't functioning at 100%
Old Nov 7, 2013 | 01:05 AM
  #37059  
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kgm
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I got these LCA's on the cheap. Would you replace these before install? Red poly bushings. 2 out of 4 look like this. I was considering putting rubber in on the frame-side if I do the work but not sure if all companies run the same size bushings or if I should remove & measure. Otherwise I'll go with poly since I don't want to mess with it & these arms have grease nips. Going on a 99 XJ w/ 3" lift if that matters.
Old Nov 7, 2013 | 09:13 AM
  #37060  
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Herp Derp Jerp
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Mine drops to like 12 on guage and pretty much stays there until the compressor kicks off or I start moving. When I moving and it kicks on I see nothing. Maybe the alternator isn't functioning at 100%
Yeah. Check the wiring etc.

Originally Posted by kgm

I got these LCA's on the cheap. Would you replace these before install? Red poly bushings. 2 out of 4 look like this. I was considering putting rubber in on the frame-side if I do the work but not sure if all companies run the same size bushings or if I should remove & measure. Otherwise I'll go with poly since I don't want to mess with it & these arms have grease nips. Going on a 99 XJ w/ 3" lift if that matters.
haha those must have been cheap. I'm guessing that substance that looks like chewing gum is melted bushing from where someone cut a bolt?

If those are aftermarket arms there's a good chance the bushings are not OE compatible. Especially with grease fittings. Put up some pictures of the entire control arm in Modified Tech if you want some help IDing
Old Nov 7, 2013 | 09:15 AM
  #37061  
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Originally Posted by salad
Sounds pretty normal lol. I spent 3 days removing my original springs and shackles with a 5" grinder, 2' breaker bar, 3 cans of PB Blaster, pipe wrench, 3lb hammer, and MAP torch. But I didn't break anything that I left on the Jeep!

Tip: Give up on using original hardware. Buy new bolts.
Am I gana have to go to the stealership for the bolts?
Old Nov 7, 2013 | 09:23 AM
  #37062  
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Originally Posted by ridinclassic

Am I gana have to go to the stealership for the bolts?
Nope. Fastenal has em, though you may have to order. All the rear suspension is M14x2.0 120MM ISO Class 10.9. The OE is flanged heads but most people, including me, just get hardened washers (M14 ISO Class 10.9 or a some loose 1/2" SAE Grade 8) and call it good.
Old Nov 7, 2013 | 09:38 AM
  #37063  
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Originally Posted by salad
If those are aftermarket arms there's a good chance the bushings are not OE compatible. Especially with grease fittings. Put up some pictures of the entire control arm in Modified Tech if you want some help IDing
Will do. They look more cracked, it is not much like a melted plastic, unless poly breaks up strangely when hot...
Old Nov 7, 2013 | 09:39 AM
  #37064  
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Originally Posted by salad
Nope. Fastenal has em, though you may have to order. All the rear suspension is M14x2.0 120MM ISO Class 10.9. The OE is flanged heads but most people, including me, just get hardened washers (M14 ISO Class 10.9 or a some loose 1/2" SAE Grade 8) and call it good.
thanks. My dad has a 1" drive air wrench and that's my last resort before the grinder comes out. It amazes me how easy my front suspension parts came off but how difficult the rear is to do. It only took me 30 mins to replace each sway link but 4 hours of effort and I couldn't get one shackle off.
Old Nov 7, 2013 | 09:43 AM
  #37065  
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Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
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Originally Posted by ridinclassic
thanks. My dad has a 1" drive air wrench and that's my last resort before the grinder comes out. It amazes me how easy my front suspension parts came off but how difficult the rear is to do. It only took me 30 mins to replace each sway link but 4 hours of effort and I couldn't get one shackle off.
Leafs can be a pain. Lol



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