With the HO. 1991.

 

At least inside. I'm driving
Thought so

 

I posted about this before, but I'm about to start parts hunting. My muffler melted a tarp I had on the rear floor. I'm going to look for a smaller muffler and a heat resistant pad (what's it called?) to put on the floor. Should I wrap the muffler in some heat tape to Keep it from radiating? I want this **** to be fixed and done with after this time.

I have a FM 40, anyone have a muffler to recommend that is physically smaller? Not a glass pack.

 

I'm laying in the backseat napping while the gf drives. She just reached back to wake me saying the airbag light came on momentarily and all gauges cycled, delayed, then back to normal ops. She's doing about 45-55, small mountain uphill/downhills. Now the check engine light is on but no other indications. Think I've read something similar before but my google search isn't doing too well at the moment. Should be home in an hour or so. Any ideas what to look for?

 

Factory used some sticky foil-backed stuff like Dynamat over the cat and muffler. I've seen something similar in threads here... check out those discussing sound-proofing material.

Have you considered just bending up a heat shield out of sheet metal to float between the floor and muffler?

Aside from checking the code I'd make sure the ground point under the dash is good. IIRC the gauge cluster an clockspring (airbag) wind up there. Ground point G108 should be under the dash on the driver's side, top left corner.

 

Thanks Salad.

 

My stock headlights are very dull and i was looking into the h4 lights with the putco harness but before i get that is there any good bulbs and lamps i could get without having to get the putco harness?

 

I replaced my VSS, speedo still doesnt work. I tested the power at the probes that plug into the VSS, the far left probe had.21 volts, the middle probe had 0 volts, with a bar appearing on the meter, and the far right had .17 volts. Can someone tell me if that is correct, or if i need to look upstream in the harness?

 

Anyone have a link or pictures of a false floor design where the rear seat and floor is, not the rear cargo area?

 

Just get the Putco harness. Your stock lights will be much brighter and you will save your headlight switch and connections. The install is very simple.

 

X2 - Heater core. Even a small pinhole(s) will give you that faint smell with the heat on, but no apparent leak visible by way of wet floors. May also fog up your windows when first turning the heat on if the temp is right. Had it happen with my Dodge Ram.

 

Not really. Sealed beam halogen lamps lose light output over time, so just replacing them with stock H6054s will probably look brighter. However, adding the harness will increase the light output of stock lamps by about 20%, and you need to use a harness to run any bulbs stronger than stock...

Exception to this rule is LED headlamps that draw almost no current, such as TruckLites.

 

I just replace my exhaust manifold with a header. Unfortunately in the process of re-installing everything else I broke the plastic housing for the spring for the throttle cable. Can't find one locally through any parts vendors or dealership. I found one via Quadratec.

link: http://www.quadratec.com/products/917716_15.htm

Is this the right style for my XJ? It matches the years for my 91, but I can't get a better picture of the cable in question. Any info would be helpful. I'm trying with a patched together cable setup.

 

Try it with the ignition switch to RUN (without starting the engine).

The connector pin cavity with a Violet/Orange tracer wire going to it is the 5 volt reference voltage from the PCM. Far right pin cavity #1. You should see 5 volts here when reading from here to chassis ground and/or to pin cavity #2.

The White/Orange tracer wire is the VSS Signal wire to the PCM. Far left pin cavity #3.

The Brown/Yellow tracer wire is the VSS Sensor return (Ground) to the PCM. Center cavity #2.

 

Thanks boys.