Newbie
So I replaced the water pump and belt a few weeks back on my 99 xj limited and ever since then on start up the belt squeaks quite obnoxiously. Also while at idle if I have my overhead light bar on it'll start to squeak also. Not sure how to fix this problem.
CF Veteran
Quote:
1. Tighten belt. A general rule to use if you don't have a legit belt tension gauge is to twist it by hand. Find the largest stretch of belt between two pulleys, such as ac compressor to alternator, or water pump to power steering pump. Grab the belt right between the two pulleys and twist. Your aiming for a 90 degree twist, if it twists way more tighten the adjuster pulley, if it seems very tight and you can't twist it near 90*, loosen it. Loosen adjuster pulley, tighten adjuster bolt 1/4-1/2 turn, tighten adjuster pulley, then give it a noise test.Originally Posted by rickeyj99xj
So I replaced the water pump and belt a few weeks back on my 99 xj limited and ever since then on start up the belt squeaks quite obnoxiously. Also while at idle if I have my overhead light bar on it'll start to squeak also. Not sure how to fix this problem.
2. At idle in park, place your hand on the light bar and apply pressure. Does the noise go away? Tighten it, lube it, add rubber insulators.......
CF Veteran
87 xj 4.0 auto
When i crank it the rpm's will shoot up to around 1600 rpm and the lifters are loud. It will immediately settle back down to normal idle and drives fine with no lifter noise. Any ideas?
When i crank it the rpm's will shoot up to around 1600 rpm and the lifters are loud. It will immediately settle back down to normal idle and drives fine with no lifter noise. Any ideas?
Quote:
When i crank it the rpm's will shoot up to around 1600 rpm and the lifters are loud. It will immediately settle back down to normal idle and drives fine with no lifter noise. Any ideas?
Sounds like a dry start. Try changing the oil filter.Originally Posted by drhoward1988
87 xj 4.0 autoWhen i crank it the rpm's will shoot up to around 1600 rpm and the lifters are loud. It will immediately settle back down to normal idle and drives fine with no lifter noise. Any ideas?
Quote:
Well the front axle takes about a quart and a half. It's a pretty good deal but that's the only place you're going to use that oil. Originally Posted by Comanche1987
I want to do some general maintenance to my 1991 XJ 4x4 5 speed. I just bought it last week and I've done coolant flush, power steering flush, oil change, new battery and terminals. Now I want to change the front/rear axle fluid/manual tranny fluid/transfer case oil. I was planning on using Mobile 1 synthetic 75w90 for everything except the rear axle (75w140). I need to know how many quarts of oil I will need, I have a budget of 80 bucks right now so what would you do first? Transmission and rear differential? I found gear oil for 12.00 qt shipped from amazon.
The transmission does not use API GL-5 gear oil; it is for hypoid gears only and corrosive to brass. You want a purpose made lube compatible with synchronized gear boxes. Redline MT-90, Royal Purple Synchromax, Pennzoil Synchromesh, and ACDelco Synchromesh fluids all work, with MT-90 being the king of the castle. Roughly 3.5 quarts.
The transfer case takes slightly over 1 quart of ATF. Never put gear oil in it.
Rear axle depends on which one you have. Two bottles of 75w140, top it off with leftover from the front axle if required.
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cruiser54
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When i crank it the rpm's will shoot up to around 1600 rpm and the lifters are loud. It will immediately settle back down to normal idle and drives fine with no lifter noise. Any ideas?
Possibly the TPS is going bad and you've got a cheapy oil filter.Originally Posted by drhoward1988
87 xj 4.0 autoWhen i crank it the rpm's will shoot up to around 1600 rpm and the lifters are loud. It will immediately settle back down to normal idle and drives fine with no lifter noise. Any ideas?
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K&N filter, which isnt normally what i use (usually a mobil 1). I'll check the TPS this weekend. I havent been driving it much lately. Thanks Cruiser
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cruiser54
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On the "engine" side......Originally Posted by drhoward1988
K&N filter, which isnt normally what i use (usually a mobil 1). I'll check the TPS this weekend. I havent been driving it much lately. Thanks Cruiser
CF Veteran
Ok thanks. Ill PM you if I get stuck, like usual lol
Newbie
So the last few weeks I've been having this issue with my '99 xj 4.0. I'll be driving normal around town and it will suddenly lose power. Like turning out on to a rode to accelerate to 30-45 mph and it will hesitate/sputter/backfire... You can blip the throttle some and it will feel like its popping but won't go then it will clear up and take off like normal.
Also if it goes into this rough running mode and I'm at a stop, it'll idle low like <500 on the tach, and of course it'll be a bit rougher idle. Oil pressure is fine.
I checked the plug wires to make sure one didn't loosen up. The center wire on the distributor clicked as it apparently wasn't fully seated. I thought this had fixed this issue but no it happened one more time since then.
Any ideas? TPS? Transmission? I'm going to check the fluid just to be safe. Then maybe pull the plugs.
Also if it goes into this rough running mode and I'm at a stop, it'll idle low like <500 on the tach, and of course it'll be a bit rougher idle. Oil pressure is fine.
I checked the plug wires to make sure one didn't loosen up. The center wire on the distributor clicked as it apparently wasn't fully seated. I thought this had fixed this issue but no it happened one more time since then.
Any ideas? TPS? Transmission? I'm going to check the fluid just to be safe. Then maybe pull the plugs.
CF Veteran
Anyone have a rear tail light wiring diagram for an 88', need to splice a license plate light to the amber light
Member
Quote:
The transfer case takes slightly over 1 quart of ATF. Never put gear oil in it.
Rear axle depends on which one you have. Two bottles of 75w140, top it off with leftover from the front axle if required.
Thank you very much for this information. Good to ask before hand! I actually have a few quarts of ATF, I'll change that first. Then do a little more research on what brand of MT fluid to purchase.Originally Posted by salad
Redline MT-90, Royal Purple Synchromax, Pennzoil Synchromesh, and ACDelco Synchromesh fluids all work, with MT-90 being the king of the castle. Roughly 3.5 quarts. The transfer case takes slightly over 1 quart of ATF. Never put gear oil in it.
Rear axle depends on which one you have. Two bottles of 75w140, top it off with leftover from the front axle if required.
Junior Member
Quote:
Have you read this?
Valve cover can leak out the back and look like a rear main.
Oil filter adapter, distributor can look like a pan gasket leaking.....
I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.
Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.
Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.
Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".
Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
Revised 02-26-2013
yessur, I did read thatOriginally Posted by cruiser54
Felpro blue.Have you read this?
Valve cover can leak out the back and look like a rear main.
Oil filter adapter, distributor can look like a pan gasket leaking.....
I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.
Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.
Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.
Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".
Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
Revised 02-26-2013
and I cleaned up the whole engine compartment
I did some of that noggin pokin
I was havin a nostart issue anyway, so some simple green and a little extra time didn't seem to hurt
the valve cover wasn't tightened down near the fire wall
ant it was leaking. however so is rms
and the oil pan
this old engine has lots and lots of miles on it,
so since I don't start work for another week, and I may never have time again for at least a few years (i'm gonna be a dad come October)
I wanna do everything I can in the last bit of time I know I have
I even finally put in the aux lights ive had in the box for the past 2years
CF Veteran
Is the stock trans power/comfort switch basically a simple bridge type switch that connects/disconnects two wires or does it switch between different circuits? I ask because I want to repurpose one as a simple fog light switch.
CF Veteran
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I think what you explained is correct. Originally Posted by 1991Jeep_Man
Is the stock trans power/comfort switch basically a simple bridge type switch that connects/disconnects two wires or does it switch between different circuits? I ask because I want to repurpose one as a simple fog light switch.
You can wire two of the switch wires together to keep it in power mode. That's what I did and Im putting daystar switches in all 4 of those slots