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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: havelock, nc
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Oh yea xjs have tire carriers but they are a mod. Do a search on the forums for that build and someone might have it posted. I personally don't have one but I've seen them many times
Sent from my iPod touch using CherokeeFM
Hi,This is my first question(s) here. I have a 2000 4 door XJ with the 4.0, automatic trans. My old Jeep is a 97 XJ with the 4.0, manual trans. and is a 2 -door with the up-country package. Aside from not beeng able to use the transmisson and the front/rear differentials, are there any other drive train parts I can save off the 97' and use on the 2000? I.E. Transfer case, rear drive shaft, front drive shaft? Can I even use the engine out of the 97 in the 2000? I know the ignition system is different. Basicly I would just like to know what I can or can't use before I start taking parts off the 97'. Thank you very much guys.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by ww2farmer
Hi,This is my first question(s) here. I have a 2000 4 door XJ with the 4.0, automatic trans. My old Jeep is a 97 XJ with the 4.0, manual trans. and is a 2 -door with the up-country package. Aside from not beeng able to use the transmisson and the front/rear differentials, are there any other drive train parts I can save off the 97' and use on the 2000? I.E. Transfer case, rear drive shaft, front drive shaft? Can I even use the engine out of the 97 in the 2000? I know the ignition system is different. Basicly I would just like to know what I can or can't use before I start taking parts off the 97'. Thank you very much guys.
Sent from my iPod touch using CherokeeFM
OK. 2000 XJ (cherokee sport w/ 9" rear drums). I recently replaced front pads and rear wheel cylinders, hardware and shoes. Thanks to this site, everything is correctly installed, working, and rears were adjusted. Replaced brake fluid; bled everything. Rears are locking up if I make a hard stop, even from slow speeds. What is going on?
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
From: Rocket Country MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ok i've got this jeep thing sittin in my driveway
i've done some tinkerin with it and so the trouble begins
well i bought an adjustable tb from some rusty guy and it looks kinda slick so i put it where it belongs and all is good right?
well for a little bit, then the tre goes out so i change it and go at it again.
enough of that i'm in the market to move up to a double shear setup
is it possible and/or reliable to swap ends to the bushing type for the frame end?
whos done this and whats the best product for what i'm trying to accomplish
i've done some tinkerin with it and so the trouble begins
well i bought an adjustable tb from some rusty guy and it looks kinda slick so i put it where it belongs and all is good right?
well for a little bit, then the tre goes out so i change it and go at it again.
enough of that i'm in the market to move up to a double shear setup
is it possible and/or reliable to swap ends to the bushing type for the frame end?
whos done this and whats the best product for what i'm trying to accomplish
Haynes manual is ok for some things, but doesn't really help with others since it tries to cover every year in one manual.
The ballast resistor is for the fuel pump, which if you're having a no-crank situation, is not the cause of your issues.
Here's a link to a write-up I did a while back. One of the solutions/checks should get you back on the road, just follow them in order.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/non...writeup-71401/
The ballast resistor is for the fuel pump, which if you're having a no-crank situation, is not the cause of your issues.
Here's a link to a write-up I did a while back. One of the solutions/checks should get you back on the road, just follow them in order.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/non...writeup-71401/
Hello again, I thank you for your help. I did take the neutral safety switch off and cleaned at as instructed. I reinstalled it and had a cranking 5 or 6 times and then it stopped again. I've concluded it does need the NSS replaced, however it costs $173.99 plus tax
. Do you or anyone on here have a wiring diagram for the 6 wires on my NSS? I guess I'm just going to bypass it. Thanks.
I took the cowl off, but don't see the drains. Where are they and how do you clear these? My 2000 XJ collects water on the passenger floor after rains, especially when parked with the nose uphill (I have a sloped driveway).
Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 111
Likes: 1
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
The other day I was replacing my thermostat and the top bolt snapped flush with the head. I drilled a pilot hole and tried an EZ out but it snapped off. What are my options?? Is there a way to fix this or will I have to take the head to a machine shop? Thanks
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: baltimore city
Year: 89xj,00 xj, 87yj
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i need a little advice on a brake system on an 89 cher. is there anybody that point me in the rite direction. i read a couple of bad recall stories.what am i in for ? thanks , tommy fr baltimore
OK. 2000 XJ (cherokee sport w/ 9" rear drums). I recently replaced front pads and rear wheel cylinders, hardware and shoes. Thanks to this site, everything is correctly installed, working, and rears were adjusted. Replaced brake fluid; bled everything. Rears are locking up if I make a hard stop, even from slow speeds. What is going on?
BTW: Search on "brakes" and you'll find a good deal of discussion on this topic.
Last edited by Cherryokee; Mar 15, 2011 at 03:49 PM. Reason: btw
I get same brake action with my '99. Like you, I've rebuilt/replaced much. I think the rears lock-up because the front is binding/misbehaving and that it's causing forward weight transfer. I found something the other day that you may want to inspect for on yours. The front pad-slides should be clean and smooth but I found a divot (or a notch) at the upper-inboard pad slide on the passenger side. This may be causing the pad to "hang" rather than retract when my foot's removed off the brake pedal because it still feels like a brake is dragging slightly as I start-off, especially in stop/go traffic.
BTW: Search on "brakes" and you'll find a good deal of discussion on this topic.
BTW: Search on "brakes" and you'll find a good deal of discussion on this topic.
Last edited by 00skgsport; Mar 15, 2011 at 04:41 PM.






