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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,838
Likes: 1
From: South Dakota
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
how do i make a thread? i can not figure it out
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Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Battle Ground WA
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO 6cy
Easiest way i found to do it, and they're may be easier ways. But what i do is go to user CP and on the bottom right it'll say forum jump, click on the one your question would be classified under, and on the top right it'll say forum tools and click on it and it should say post new thread.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Kettering, OH
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 4.0 H.O.
Hey guys I'm a n00b jeep owner and I was wondering what would be the beat way to go about putting back on the side door trim on a 1996 Cherokee sport? Thank you so much!
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Hey Newbie XJ owner I have purchased a very lightly used skyjacker 3" full leaf packs kit with shocks kwik discos coils lcas have noticed not many xjers run skyjacker I paid $400 I am wondering if they have bad reputation are they junk??
Any insight would be appreciated.
Any insight would be appreciated.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Did some searching and cant really find a striaght up answer, so here it is. Im getting a cold air intake and am wondering which brand to go with. K&N seems to be a real popular choice but an afe, rugged ridge, aem brute force and airaid are a bit cheaper. Is K&N really worth the extra $50-$100 more?
(shown without the separation shroud i built later)
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 5
From: Western Michigan
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l inline 6
I'm thinking of getting rid of my cold air and get my air from the cowl and run it to a stock box and filter. Won't be until some warmer weather though.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
1990 jeep cherokee, replaced alternator and battery.. ran fine for a while and died. Tried to restart and would not restart. When open hood found orange wire going to little silver box with a bunch of wires connected to it melting and smoking. any ideas?
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 5
From: Western Michigan
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l inline 6
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 5
From: Western Michigan
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l inline 6
As we always say on this forum;

Why do we say that......orange wire, silver box, and a bunch of wires. I'm still learning jeep lingo and I make up names when I dont know what something is, many of us do that and the names tend not to be the same. Also many have modded there rigs and it might not be the same as yours so nameing colors will not help alot. Post a pic and the answers will come. Sorry I coundnt help with your question.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,838
Likes: 1
From: South Dakota
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
doesn't matter at all. Cold air is cold air. The main differences will be in the filter element. I bought mine off ebay for like $45 and it works exactly the same as one of the high dollar kits.
(shown without the separation shroud i built later)
(shown without the separation shroud i built later)
X2 on Wildspear's input. He's right on the money. Very few will know about that little silver box with the orange wire unless you're talking about the "Jesus Box", because when that thing's fried all you can do is pray for your Jeep to get well.
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 116
Likes: 1
From: Gads Hill, Ontario
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You first need to confirm that this is the problem. The specs for crankshaft end play are probably something like 0.008". It'll probably work fine maybe up to 0.030" or so. With the engine off, try to pry the crankshaft fore and aft, the movement should be almost imperceptible. You can pry either at the front of the engine on the bottom pulley, or at the back of the engine from underneath, if you remove the tinwork that covers the flywheel bottom opening. If it moves back and forth a measureable amount (like 1/16" or more), you'll need to rebuild the engine.






