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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by XJmotard
Pretty sure u can just put it in 4 and drive and make turn to either left it right and it should pull and skip a lil...thats how I.can tell in mine anyways....
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
From: Rocket Country MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ok first off ignore my member status this is my 2nd account therefore not a noob
I have run into a few problems with my rig as of late
its a 99 sport with the re 3.5 super ride w/ full leaf packs
i purchased a rusty's adj trackbar which keeps destroying the frame end tre
i've been told its meant for more lift than i currently have
so do i find another track bar or.... look into more lift then more problems
I'm not against more lift just not sure how to go about it and keep cost down
I have looked into adding a 2in bb to what i already have then getting the lca drop brackets (ok since I don't really do rock crawling) or a long arm upgrade for better ride.
Problem #2 is more basic.. my rear brakes keep falling appart
the pin the self adjuster pivots on keep coming undone on the pass side set-up
i've rebuilt them twice and keep having the same problem
i only do one side at a time to have the other as refrence as i should i'm just stumped
any ideas guys
thanks for listening
I have run into a few problems with my rig as of late
its a 99 sport with the re 3.5 super ride w/ full leaf packs
i purchased a rusty's adj trackbar which keeps destroying the frame end tre
i've been told its meant for more lift than i currently have
so do i find another track bar or.... look into more lift then more problems
I'm not against more lift just not sure how to go about it and keep cost down
I have looked into adding a 2in bb to what i already have then getting the lca drop brackets (ok since I don't really do rock crawling) or a long arm upgrade for better ride.
Problem #2 is more basic.. my rear brakes keep falling appart

the pin the self adjuster pivots on keep coming undone on the pass side set-up
i've rebuilt them twice and keep having the same problem
i only do one side at a time to have the other as refrence as i should i'm just stumped
any ideas guys
thanks for listening
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: michigan
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Are you seating the pin all the way into the shoulder? If you are you might need to use some 2 part epoxy or JB weld on the back side grind the paint off around the hole first. It happend to me once either the pin or hole could be out of tollerance allowing it to vibrate out.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: michigan
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by sycoglitch
That's never good even as a test if he goes too fast he can damage some parts
Find yourself some dirt and hit the gas hard enough to spin the tires a bit then get out and look at your marks if you've thrown some dirt front and back 4 is working and no need to go nuts with it a foot or two will give you the answer
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: havelock, nc
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by northernnorm
I agree hard turn + hard surface +gas = damage
Find yourself some dirt and hit the gas hard enough to spin the tires a bit then get out and look at your marks if you've thrown some dirt front and back 4 is working and no need to go nuts with it a foot or two will give you the answer
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,894
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I agree hard turn + hard surface +gas = damage
Find yourself some dirt and hit the gas hard enough to spin the tires a bit then get out and look at your marks if you've thrown some dirt front and back 4 is working and no need to go nuts with it a foot or two will give you the answer
Find yourself some dirt and hit the gas hard enough to spin the tires a bit then get out and look at your marks if you've thrown some dirt front and back 4 is working and no need to go nuts with it a foot or two will give you the answer
I'll try that.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: havelock, nc
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by cjcherokee8189
Im lifting my xj to clear 35s and was wondering what type of axle or gears i should run i have stock gears now with 31s with a dana 35.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
That being said, usually 4.54 gears are perfect for 35s
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: havelock, nc
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by dukie564
I would SERIOUSLY consider some axle upgrades / swap with anything over 33s, especially on a d35 rear. I would recommend a ford 8.8 swap or at least a 29-spline c8.25 in the rear, and axle shaft/u-joint upgrades minimum in the front.
That being said, usually 4.54 gears are perfect for 35s
I'm thinking about getting either a Spartan automatic locker or a lock right for my front d30 but since my xj is my DD I'm worried about how it would affect my street driving any suggestions or advice would help




