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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: havelock, nc
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by TCSwizz
I think you should stick with 93xjay's advice and steer clear of the shackle and spacer route. A buddy of mine went that way with his cherokee and eventually what happend was the shackle "beat the hell out of his add a leaf" and the rear end sagged. A lot! IMO you should go with a long arm kit if you want to go high and think about getting a slip yoke eliminator and new trackbar. If you are doing this yourself, its a lot of work. Think about it before you go off any start buying parts. Or else you could be doing this
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Problems again:
My xj barely starts. The alternator turns the engine so slow, barely! When it finally manages to get it, it stalls right away. The only way for me to get it going is to push the accelerator while starting it. Then it starts (with a lot of trouble) and if I let my foot off the gas it stalls right away again. So, I start is again and keep my foot on the accelerator for like a minute keeping it around 1000-1500rpm and only after a minute or so it will idle fine by itself.
I drove it to autozone, tested the battery and alternator and the guy said everything is fine. In fact it will be OK for a 3-4 days, and then as soon as the outside temperature drops below 30 F (Indiana), it will give me that trouble again.
I have recently upgraded the injectors, cleaned the IAC.
I have replaced the connections to battery terminals as well, thinking that the issue was there.
I have seafomed the crankcase and the cylinders.
I kinda feel like, since it's doing this crap when it's cold outside, that I have some kind of sludge build up in the crankcase, that gets thicker in the cold???
Or maybe it is just my battery being bad (CCA), or alternator not charging enough?
Any suggestion would be appreciated. I don't want to just replace all the parts and spend $$$ and then still get no solution...
My xj barely starts. The alternator turns the engine so slow, barely! When it finally manages to get it, it stalls right away. The only way for me to get it going is to push the accelerator while starting it. Then it starts (with a lot of trouble) and if I let my foot off the gas it stalls right away again. So, I start is again and keep my foot on the accelerator for like a minute keeping it around 1000-1500rpm and only after a minute or so it will idle fine by itself.
I drove it to autozone, tested the battery and alternator and the guy said everything is fine. In fact it will be OK for a 3-4 days, and then as soon as the outside temperature drops below 30 F (Indiana), it will give me that trouble again.
I have recently upgraded the injectors, cleaned the IAC.
I have replaced the connections to battery terminals as well, thinking that the issue was there.
I have seafomed the crankcase and the cylinders.
I kinda feel like, since it's doing this crap when it's cold outside, that I have some kind of sludge build up in the crankcase, that gets thicker in the cold???
Or maybe it is just my battery being bad (CCA), or alternator not charging enough?
Any suggestion would be appreciated. I don't want to just replace all the parts and spend $$$ and then still get no solution...
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
Turn signal woes
While I've read a few posts about flashers and what not burning out, I'm not sure that's my problem. So I'll ask here.
I have an 85 Cherokee Chief, pretty much stock, and the turn signals don't work - more specifically, they won't click into position.
When I bought it (used) the right turn signal didn't click but worked if you held it, and the left signal worked fine. Then one day, while I was waiting at a stop sign, I went to put the left indicator on, and nothing happened... no click, no signal even when held... and
smoke came out of the column where the turn signal lever joins the column. Ever since, neither signal works, and neither one will click into position. I'm assuming I need to replace the actual switch, but I'm not sure what part to ask for, or if that's even the issue.
I have an 85 Cherokee Chief, pretty much stock, and the turn signals don't work - more specifically, they won't click into position.
When I bought it (used) the right turn signal didn't click but worked if you held it, and the left signal worked fine. Then one day, while I was waiting at a stop sign, I went to put the left indicator on, and nothing happened... no click, no signal even when held... and
smoke came out of the column where the turn signal lever joins the column. Ever since, neither signal works, and neither one will click into position. I'm assuming I need to replace the actual switch, but I'm not sure what part to ask for, or if that's even the issue.
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: Independence, MO
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
While I've read a few posts about flashers and what not burning out, I'm not sure that's my problem. So I'll ask here.
I have an 85 Cherokee Chief, pretty much stock, and the turn signals don't work - more specifically, they won't click into position.
When I bought it (used) the right turn signal didn't click but worked if you held it, and the left signal worked fine. Then one day, while I was waiting at a stop sign, I went to put the left indicator on, and nothing happened... no click, no signal even when held... and smoke came out of the column where the turn signal lever joins the column. Ever since, neither signal works, and neither one will click into position. I'm assuming I need to replace the actual switch, but I'm not sure what part to ask for, or if that's even the issue.
I have an 85 Cherokee Chief, pretty much stock, and the turn signals don't work - more specifically, they won't click into position.
When I bought it (used) the right turn signal didn't click but worked if you held it, and the left signal worked fine. Then one day, while I was waiting at a stop sign, I went to put the left indicator on, and nothing happened... no click, no signal even when held... and
smoke came out of the column where the turn signal lever joins the column. Ever since, neither signal works, and neither one will click into position. I'm assuming I need to replace the actual switch, but I'm not sure what part to ask for, or if that's even the issue.It's simply called the "turn signal switch"...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2774264
It's about $37 + shipping through http://rockauto.com. Might be cheaper locally through a parts dealer (Napa, Advance, Orielly)
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Central Washington
Year: 91 xj, 93 xj, 93 zj, 94 zj
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2x I6, 2x v8
I have had an ongoing problem since I bought the current jeep. It initially had a bad idle control motor, but due to a misdiagnosis I ended up replacing pretty much all other components as well. Since then I've probibly put another 30~50k on the engine.
The problem I have is an RPM drop for a second or so every minute or so while idling, like it was turned off and back on before it dies. It never died until today and otherwise rund great.
What I suspect is that it's anticipating something turning on or off, and cycling the ICM. I have done the ICM check by flipping things on and off, but it idles just fine, nice and smooth. I have checked all I can think of.
I dont know what this problem is called to search for it, as "idle problems" returns a lot of different issues, none of them really having to do with a '91~95 era xj with this issue.
It is a '91, has a '98 engine in it, and either has the origional computer or the one out of my 93, or its spare. They are all the same computer anyway. Beyond that, it is bone stock with whatever options were available for it at the time, besides power windows and locks, a/c and rear windshield wiper.
Only other thing is that the auxillery cooling fan is not functional. It didnt come with one when I got it, but I had an extra and installed it, and it ran fine. Then I replaced the alternator a few months ago and cracked that one, got another out of a junkyard and it hasn't run since. The "almost dieing ever couple minutes" problem has not been affected throughout all that though.
Im stumped.
The problem I have is an RPM drop for a second or so every minute or so while idling, like it was turned off and back on before it dies. It never died until today and otherwise rund great.
What I suspect is that it's anticipating something turning on or off, and cycling the ICM. I have done the ICM check by flipping things on and off, but it idles just fine, nice and smooth. I have checked all I can think of.
I dont know what this problem is called to search for it, as "idle problems" returns a lot of different issues, none of them really having to do with a '91~95 era xj with this issue.
It is a '91, has a '98 engine in it, and either has the origional computer or the one out of my 93, or its spare. They are all the same computer anyway. Beyond that, it is bone stock with whatever options were available for it at the time, besides power windows and locks, a/c and rear windshield wiper.
Only other thing is that the auxillery cooling fan is not functional. It didnt come with one when I got it, but I had an extra and installed it, and it ran fine. Then I replaced the alternator a few months ago and cracked that one, got another out of a junkyard and it hasn't run since. The "almost dieing ever couple minutes" problem has not been affected throughout all that though.
Im stumped.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
your idle issue is likely caused by your Crankshaft Position Sensor starting to fail. It likely happens while driving too, but you don't notice it since the transmission keeps the engine turning at speed. Another possibility is your distributor rotor/cap needs replacement, or your camshaft position sensor (in the distributor) is starting to fail.
Intermittent problems are very hard to diagnose/pinpoint. Good luck with this one. Start with the cheapest first and move up to the most expensive. Good thing is none of these are particularly hard/expensive to replace, but it's finding the right cause that's the issue.
I'm not sure about the cooling fan, although it's not uncommon for it to not ever turn on in the winter months. It kicks on at about 210* for engine cooling, and also kicks on with the a/c compressor (also defrost). However it won't kick on under ac/defrost mode if your a/c system doesn't have enough pressure in it.
Intermittent problems are very hard to diagnose/pinpoint. Good luck with this one. Start with the cheapest first and move up to the most expensive. Good thing is none of these are particularly hard/expensive to replace, but it's finding the right cause that's the issue.
I'm not sure about the cooling fan, although it's not uncommon for it to not ever turn on in the winter months. It kicks on at about 210* for engine cooling, and also kicks on with the a/c compressor (also defrost). However it won't kick on under ac/defrost mode if your a/c system doesn't have enough pressure in it.
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
2000 Sport rear brake question
Replaced the 9" rear shoes and badly leaking wheel cylinders. While I was doing that, I got a hardware kit and replaced the springs and adjuster screws. I have to take the wheels and drums back off, because I don't think I positioned the self-adjusting lever correctly on the star adjuster.
Problem--while looking at the bills and parts diagrams to make sure i got it right, I just realized that the adjuster screws I bought say LH and RH on the invoice, but I put them on without noticing which side goes on where. How do I now tell which is the left and which is the right to make sure I got this right? I assume that because the parts look identical, it is about thread/rotation direction so that the self-adjuster lever can push/hold it correctly. Help.
Problem--while looking at the bills and parts diagrams to make sure i got it right, I just realized that the adjuster screws I bought say LH and RH on the invoice, but I put them on without noticing which side goes on where. How do I now tell which is the left and which is the right to make sure I got this right? I assume that because the parts look identical, it is about thread/rotation direction so that the self-adjuster lever can push/hold it correctly. Help.
Last edited by 00skgsport; Feb 23, 2011 at 09:59 AM.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Problems again:
My xj barely starts. The alternator turns the engine so slow, barely! When it finally manages to get it, it stalls right away. The only way for me to get it going is to push the accelerator while starting it. Then it starts (with a lot of trouble) and if I let my foot off the gas it stalls right away again. So, I start is again and keep my foot on the accelerator for like a minute keeping it around 1000-1500rpm and only after a minute or so it will idle fine by itself.
I drove it to autozone, tested the battery and alternator and the guy said everything is fine. In fact it will be OK for a 3-4 days, and then as soon as the outside temperature drops below 30 F (Indiana), it will give me that trouble again.
I have recently upgraded the injectors, cleaned the IAC.
I have replaced the connections to battery terminals as well, thinking that the issue was there.
I have seafomed the crankcase and the cylinders.
I kinda feel like, since it's doing this crap when it's cold outside, that I have some kind of sludge build up in the crankcase, that gets thicker in the cold???
Or maybe it is just my battery being bad (CCA), or alternator not charging enough?
Any suggestion would be appreciated. I don't want to just replace all the parts and spend $$$ and then still get no solution...
My xj barely starts. The alternator turns the engine so slow, barely! When it finally manages to get it, it stalls right away. The only way for me to get it going is to push the accelerator while starting it. Then it starts (with a lot of trouble) and if I let my foot off the gas it stalls right away again. So, I start is again and keep my foot on the accelerator for like a minute keeping it around 1000-1500rpm and only after a minute or so it will idle fine by itself.
I drove it to autozone, tested the battery and alternator and the guy said everything is fine. In fact it will be OK for a 3-4 days, and then as soon as the outside temperature drops below 30 F (Indiana), it will give me that trouble again.
I have recently upgraded the injectors, cleaned the IAC.
I have replaced the connections to battery terminals as well, thinking that the issue was there.
I have seafomed the crankcase and the cylinders.
I kinda feel like, since it's doing this crap when it's cold outside, that I have some kind of sludge build up in the crankcase, that gets thicker in the cold???
Or maybe it is just my battery being bad (CCA), or alternator not charging enough?
Any suggestion would be appreciated. I don't want to just replace all the parts and spend $$$ and then still get no solution...
Thanks for all the help and suggestions (none so far).
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Live Free or Die State
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Replaced the 9" rear shoes and badly leaking wheel cylinders. While I was doing that, I got a hardware kit and replaced the springs and adjuster screws. I have to take the wheels and drums back off, because I don't think I positioned the self-adjusting lever correctly on the star adjuster.
Problem--while looking at the bills and parts diagrams to make sure i got it right, I just realized that the adjuster screws I bought say LH and RH on the invoice, but I put them on without noticing which side goes on where. How do I now tell which is the left and which is the right to make sure I got this right? I assume that because the parts look identical, it is about thread/rotation direction so that the self-adjuster lever can push/hold it correctly. Help.
Problem--while looking at the bills and parts diagrams to make sure i got it right, I just realized that the adjuster screws I bought say LH and RH on the invoice, but I put them on without noticing which side goes on where. How do I now tell which is the left and which is the right to make sure I got this right? I assume that because the parts look identical, it is about thread/rotation direction so that the self-adjuster lever can push/hold it correctly. Help.
I just happened to be working on my brakes too. Left is Drivers side, Right is Passengers side.
Inside the barrel of the star adjuster it will say L or R.
The Teeth which resemble a saw blade of the adjuster wheel should point outwards if oriented correctly.
The long end of the barrel always goes forward towards the ebrake or the front "primary" brake shoe pointing towards the front of the vehicle.
The short end of the adjuster is towards the rear on the main (thicker lining) secondary brake shoe side.
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
I just happened to be working on my brakes too. Left is Drivers side, Right is Passengers side.
Inside the barrel of the star adjuster it will say L or R.
The Teeth which resemble a saw blade of the adjuster wheel should point outwards if oriented correctly.
The long end of the barrel always goes forward towards the ebrake or the front "primary" brake shoe pointing towards the front of the vehicle.
The short end of the adjuster is towards the rear on the main (thicker lining) secondary brake shoe side.
Inside the barrel of the star adjuster it will say L or R.
The Teeth which resemble a saw blade of the adjuster wheel should point outwards if oriented correctly.
The long end of the barrel always goes forward towards the ebrake or the front "primary" brake shoe pointing towards the front of the vehicle.
The short end of the adjuster is towards the rear on the main (thicker lining) secondary brake shoe side.
. The info on the part stamping is huge, as is the correct placement. Very much appreciated!
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
hello fellas
ok so my jeep starts fine drives good but after it fully warms up thats when my little problem starts....
If i give it good throttle it goes great picks up great but after letting of the gas and giving it 5% throttle to get a slow cruze it starts jumping rpm's but the pedal is in barely pushed? But if i floor it or gradually press the pedal it goes fine....Only under low throttle load it jumps n stuters a bit?
ideas?
(just cleaned the trottle valve motor cone) helped a bit but still acting up
thx
ok so my jeep starts fine drives good but after it fully warms up thats when my little problem starts....
If i give it good throttle it goes great picks up great but after letting of the gas and giving it 5% throttle to get a slow cruze it starts jumping rpm's but the pedal is in barely pushed? But if i floor it or gradually press the pedal it goes fine....Only under low throttle load it jumps n stuters a bit?
ideas?
(just cleaned the trottle valve motor cone) helped a bit but still acting up
thx
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 948
Likes: 1
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
Will I hurt my Hellas 500ff 55 watt if I run 10 gauge wire? I don't want to run wires twice and I'm eventually upgrading the bulbs to 100 watt or 110 which ever hella sells. I forget.
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: MAPLE FALLS
Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.8 BORED
229 to 241 swap
I have looked all around the web for the answer figured someone here may have the answer. From what I have learned to now both have 23 count female spline and I have to cap or reroute vacuum line on 229. Front drive line will have to be replaced. Is there anything else that would prevent this swap? Is it a good swap?
2.8 built(love it)
3 speed auto w/overdrive
28" tires
2.8 built(love it)
3 speed auto w/overdrive
28" tires
Last edited by grumpy1; Feb 23, 2011 at 09:52 PM. Reason: additional info
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: MAPLE FALLS
Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.8 BORED
hello fellas
ok so my jeep starts fine drives good but after it fully warms up thats when my little problem starts....
If i give it good throttle it goes great picks up great but after letting of the gas and giving it 5% throttle to get a slow cruze it starts jumping rpm's but the pedal is in barely pushed? But if i floor it or gradually press the pedal it goes fine....Only under low throttle load it jumps n stuters a bit?
ideas?
(just cleaned the trottle valve motor cone) helped a bit but still acting up
thx
ok so my jeep starts fine drives good but after it fully warms up thats when my little problem starts....
If i give it good throttle it goes great picks up great but after letting of the gas and giving it 5% throttle to get a slow cruze it starts jumping rpm's but the pedal is in barely pushed? But if i floor it or gradually press the pedal it goes fine....Only under low throttle load it jumps n stuters a bit?
ideas?
(just cleaned the trottle valve motor cone) helped a bit but still acting up
thx