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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 03:43 PM
  #3556  
killya4420's Avatar
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Joined: May 2010
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From: Banning, CA.
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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my xj started idlein rough, so i checked spark an fuel an commen things like that, and couldnt get it to run right. replaced the idle sensor and it didnt help. pluged in an obd2 and the codes said it was an open circuit in injector 1, multiple cylinder misfires, an cylinder 1 misfires. i replaced the injecter and it didnt help. she still gets up an goes, but it idles rough, has a puttin sound to it when in cruzen, and sounds like it backfires out of the intake when i push it to the floor. and now she wants to die on me when in at a stop in gear. any advice on what to check or what the bug might be would be appreciated, thanx
Old Mar 5, 2011 | 03:45 PM
  #3557  
dukie564's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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new cap and rotor would be my first step
Old Mar 5, 2011 | 05:20 PM
  #3558  
Jeepasaurus's Avatar
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From: Crystal Lake, IL Milwaukee, WI
Year: '92, '94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H/O
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Hey, I know someone mentioned checking for a warped rotor up front already, but if you find that they're true....Make sure the slides on your calipers aren't all frozen up! And that said, make sure your calipers aren't just trashed as it is...

If you've got a vibration like that, it could be that one side is hangin' up.

Hope this helps!
Old Mar 5, 2011 | 07:56 PM
  #3559  
n91chriss's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 103
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From: Georgia
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO from a 91 Comanche.
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Originally Posted by WantACherokee
My '87 XJ has a vibration from the front end under heavy braking. The harder I brake, the stronger I feel the vibration. It has new front pads and rotors as well as new rear drums, shoes, and hardware; I also replaced all brake lines and bled the system at the time. So I don't think it's an issue with the brakes themselves, but I'm wondering if I could be a front end component that is worn out. Any ideas what it could be?
Another thought besides rotor issues, the tie-rod ends on some pick-ups can cause that exact problem if severe wear occurs, my dad's '94 f150 currently has a few over 350k on it, and was greatly improved around 320k by replacing the tie-rod ends and aligning it.
Not a common cause for your problem , but a thought.....
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 12:15 AM
  #3560  
XJSEAN's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Tacoma Wa
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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How do you install a rear hitch? Do you have to remove the rear bumper? Is there a bolt strip that i can get to put in the frame rail my jeep just has the holes no threds or studs.
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 12:59 AM
  #3561  
Jeepasaurus's Avatar
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From: Crystal Lake, IL Milwaukee, WI
Year: '92, '94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H/O
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Hey XJSEAN, I just installed a hitch receiver on my XJ last month. My frame already had the three holes on each frame horn pre drilled.

The best way to do the bolts without removing the rear bumper is to drop the bolt down from inside the frame. If you get under there you'll notice it's open in the back and you have a few inches in between the bumper and that opening.

Place the bolt in, 'bottom' first and slide it back as far as you can. Watch for it through the holes in the frame, and when you can see the tip of the bolt, take one of those pen magnets and get ahold of it, and finally bring it down through the hole.

It's a huge pain in the ***, but if you're not planning on building a rear bumper right now and your bumper brackets are nice and soft from rust.....this is the way to go.
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 08:51 AM
  #3562  
wildspear's Avatar
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,680
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From: Western Michigan
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l inline 6
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2000 cherokee, I-6 4.0 (engine seems to be a 93 or 94- all electrics were swaped over from the 2000 engine), AW-4

I finished my engine install. I started it up (took alot of cranking) and it ran really rough, stalled out after a min or two (threw a check engine light). Started it again (alot of cranking) ran for a bit. I put it in gear and backed up a few feet. Stoped put in park and it stalled. It was late and I stoped messing with it for the night.

I thought I heard a exhaust leak at the down pipe and header when it was running. I didn't put seals in between the pipes (just saw online where they go, didnt know I needed any seal there).

I dont have a code checker but tomorrow I would like to get her to an auto store so they can do their code checker. Any quick things I can check before I go there (thats if she runs well enough for the 5 mile trip there)?
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 09:02 AM
  #3563  
Jeep95's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 948
Likes: 1
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
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You have all your spark plug wires correct? Also your injectors hooked up right?
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 09:08 AM
  #3564  
wildspear's Avatar
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 5
From: Western Michigan
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l inline 6
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Originally Posted by Jeep95
You have all your spark plug wires correct? Also your injectors hooked up right?
I assume so, I had to make my own brakets for my ignition coil pac, and the back brackets seemed a bit iffy (couldn't get it bolted in). On my #5 injector I broke the locking clip when I was taking the old engine out. I didn't want to splice a new plug in so I just connected it without the locking clip.

So maybe I'm not getting a good enough connection from the coil or injector and that could be part of my rough running engine? I geuss I could take the coil off and intall the back bracket in the right way. I was trying to rush things that night (jeep has been down since new years eve) and just wanted the jeep running.
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 09:45 AM
  #3565  
XJSEAN's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 100
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From: Tacoma Wa
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by Jeepasaurus
Hey XJSEAN, I just installed a hitch receiver on my XJ last month. My frame already had the three holes on each frame horn pre drilled.

The best way to do the bolts without removing the rear bumper is to drop the bolt down from inside the frame. If you get under there you'll notice it's open in the back and you have a few inches in between the bumper and that opening.

Place the bolt in, 'bottom' first and slide it back as far as you can. Watch for it through the holes in the frame, and when you can see the tip of the bolt, take one of those pen magnets and get ahold of it, and finally bring it down through the hole.

It's a huge pain in the ***, but if you're not planning on building a rear bumper right now and your bumper brackets are nice and soft from rust.....this is the way to go.
Thank's man I'm going to do it on Tue I will let you know how it goes.. Thanks again!!!!
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 10:03 AM
  #3566  
LizardRunner's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 19
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From: Arkansas
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
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Originally Posted by Dechion
I know you just replaced them, but every time I have run into a similar problem it's been a brake rotor.

One thing you might take a look at is whether one of the rotors got a little something behind it when you were installing. That might account for it being a bit off.
I agree with the check things again. Also, if you pulled the hats (rotors) then it may be a need to re-torque the mounting bolts. While you're in there, check the bearings for play, if those are loose, you're going to get vibration of a destructive kind.
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 11:12 AM
  #3567  
Napod1293's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5
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From: Oklahoma
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Default Off road lights

I am installing lights on my 1992 xj stock front bumper I have the passenger side mount on but I can not get the drivers side. I don't see a way to do it without pulling off the bumper. I really don't want to do that! any help would be appricated.
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 03:48 PM
  #3568  
Marine Mike's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 57
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From: Arizona
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default engine! whos got one!?

Hey guys I'm looking to build a nice engine for my 98, I was wondering if anyone in the Phoenix area had a old long block sitting around (that needs to be rebuilt)that could have or maybe buy??
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 04:05 PM
  #3569  
C/L 98 XJ's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 110
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From: Indianapolis
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Hey Newbie XJ owner I have purchased a very lightly used skyjacker 3" full leaf packs kit with shocks kwik discos coils lcas have noticed not many xjers run skyjacker I paid $400 I am wondering if they have bad reputation are they junk??
Any insight would be appreciated.
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 06:17 PM
  #3570  
Kyle 4x4 4life's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,838
Likes: 1
From: South Dakota
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Did some searching and cant really find a striaght up answer, so here it is. Im getting a cold air intake and am wondering which brand to go with. K&N seems to be a real popular choice but an afe, rugged ridge, aem brute force and airaid are a bit cheaper. Is K&N really worth the extra $50-$100 more?



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