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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 06:48 PM
  #4306  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by Uhrinator

Maybe this thread should be changed to "Ask Dukie Thread" lol.

Sent using CherokeeFM
Nah dukie just needs his own app where you directly ask him questions. And in future jeep models instead of onstar it's gonna be calldukie.
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 08:47 PM
  #4307  
Sideways99's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,240
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From: Rocket Country MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by dukie564
when's the last time you did a full tune up? (plugs, wires, cap/rotor, air filter, etc). This would be my first step.

What link of MPG we talking? I'd expect a rig with your specs to run about 13-15mpg in good condition.

If it's really bad I would consider changing the pre-cat o2 sensor and see if that fixes your issue.


As far as your vibes go, with a sye you should have no transfer case drop. I'm assuming you have a double-cardan rear driveshaft as well, in which case your pinion should be about 0.5-1.0* below parallel with the drive shaft with the wheels on the ground to account for axle warp under acceleration.

if you don't have a DC driveshaft, pinion input needs to be parallel to the transfer case output.
i was gettin 310-325 out of a tank
now only about 270-80 not being hard on it
as far as tune up i did everything mid july last year and regular oilchanges
i'm not throwing codes at all matter of fact a buddy works at advance and i have him run codes every other month just so we can go outside an bs when hes at work lol and ain't really justify throwing money at an o2 thats not bad ya know
dc ds yes, t case drop no, shims yes but could def use more after inspecting
i'll pull plugs soon to se how they look
any other ideas let me know
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 10:14 PM
  #4308  
jeepin4jesus's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 177
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From: Fort Wayne, IN
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6 cylinder
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Originally Posted by Sideways99

i was gettin 310-325 out of a tank
now only about 270-80 not being hard on it
as far as tune up i did everything mid july last year and regular oilchanges
i'm not throwing codes at all matter of fact a buddy works at advance and i have him run codes every other month just so we can go outside an bs when hes at work lol and ain't really justify throwing money at an o2 thats not bad ya know
dc ds yes, t case drop no, shims yes but could def use more after inspecting
i'll pull plugs soon to se how they look
any other ideas let me know
I only get 14mpg average on my 99 stock xj. i have replaced cap rotor plugs and wires. So i just deal with the bad mpgs. unless this is not a normal mpg?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Cherokee Forum
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 03:16 AM
  #4309  
trug's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 88
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From: bone, idaho
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default diagrams any one

I just bought a 90 xj, it has issues but the price was right.

The short version of my question is I am checking the sensors that feed the RENIX brain and some of the tests require checking terminals identified by letters. My chilton manual (the latest version) is not helpful in ID'ing which is which. Does any one have the appropriate pages from a service manual to help me figure out what I am doing? FYI I am also using the modified jabbathahutt write up on http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm to work through the sensors.

thanks, read on if you want to check my thought process/diagnossis

If it had a carb I would say it has choke issues. The idle is low (if the tach is to be trusted <400) when it is cold as it warms it gets worse at 200-210 F it dies.

It is undriveable as is.

When I first got the jeep friday night the idle was erratic jumping around between 50- 1500 rpm and was marginally drivable. The exhaust smelled like raw gas and it had a knock that occurred at about 2k ~3k rpm with a corresponding loss of power (for the time being I am assuming the knock sensor is ok for that reason.) After 3k the power would jump and by about 4.5K the power felt about 'right'.

A thorough going over of the vacuum system yielded a disconnected EGR solenoid (hose pluged w/ a screw), the CCV fitting on the manifold and the hose connecting it to the the valve cover gasket was a mess, and multiple cracked hoses were 'fixed' with electrical tape.

When I checked the plugs the ceramic insulators were black but not 'sooty' or oily. (it had texture but would not wipe off so it does not fit my definition of soot.) Also the Emiss Maint light is on which makes me think the problem is the motor running rich because a failed sensor is fighting a good one. My money is on a failed CTS fighting a good O2 sensor.

In addition the vacuum fixes, the plugs (champion copper), wires, distributor cap and roter, air filter, and coil were all replaced recently, and the cat is new within the last 1.5 years.

Thanks for all previous posts I never would have gotten this far without them. (i read about 120 pages on this thread alone)

Last edited by trug; Apr 13, 2011 at 03:43 AM. Reason: grammer
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 08:18 AM
  #4310  
dukie564's Avatar
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by nme159
What is everyone using for rear recovery. I picked up a smittybilt prefab d ring w 2" receiver for $35. Good deal or not? Its only 3/4" not 7/8". Is this good enough? Rating is 10,000. Sooooo...... Whatya think?
plenty good. I have a harbor freight d-ring receiver and it works great. Just make sure you have a class III hitch to put it in.
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 08:27 AM
  #4311  
dukie564's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Default

Originally Posted by Sideways99
i was gettin 310-325 out of a tank
now only about 270-80 not being hard on it
as far as tune up i did everything mid july last year and regular oilchanges
i'm not throwing codes at all matter of fact a buddy works at advance and i have him run codes every other month just so we can go outside an bs when hes at work lol and ain't really justify throwing money at an o2 thats not bad ya know
dc ds yes, t case drop no, shims yes but could def use more after inspecting
i'll pull plugs soon to se how they look
any other ideas let me know
hmmm are you sure? You need to fill it up, drive till empty, then fill it up to see how much gas you used. (divide miles/#gallons used, and adjust for tire size/speedo calibration). Don't trust the gas gauge, it can vary by 2 or more gallons. For reference sakes i get about 17.5mpg with m/t tires and trimmed front fascia/bumper.

and o2 sensors usually will not throw a code when they stop being effective. It's definitely a small cost to replace if it gains back mileage.

But get some real mpg numbers - maybe run through 2 or more tanks to get a more accurate calculation (total cumulative mileage / total number of gallons used).

Different fuels (winter/summer blend), weather conditions, hwy/city all affect mpg so try to keep it as constant as possible.
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 08:34 AM
  #4312  
dukie564's Avatar
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Premium Member
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Default

Originally Posted by trug
I just bought a 90 xj, it has issues but the price was right.

The short version of my question is I am checking the sensors that feed the RENIX brain and some of the tests require checking terminals identified by letters. My chilton manual (the latest version) is not helpful in ID'ing which is which. Does any one have the appropriate pages from a service manual to help me figure out what I am doing? FYI I am also using the modified jabbathahutt write up on http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm to work through the sensors.

thanks, read on if you want to check my thought process/diagnossis

If it had a carb I would say it has choke issues. The idle is low (if the tach is to be trusted <400) when it is cold as it warms it gets worse at 200-210 F it dies.

It is undriveable as is.

When I first got the jeep friday night the idle was erratic jumping around between 50- 1500 rpm and was marginally drivable. The exhaust smelled like raw gas and it had a knock that occurred at about 2k ~3k rpm with a corresponding loss of power (for the time being I am assuming the knock sensor is ok for that reason.) After 3k the power would jump and by about 4.5K the power felt about 'right'.

A thorough going over of the vacuum system yielded a disconnected EGR solenoid (hose pluged w/ a screw), the CCV fitting on the manifold and the hose connecting it to the the valve cover gasket was a mess, and multiple cracked hoses were 'fixed' with electrical tape.

When I checked the plugs the ceramic insulators were black but not 'sooty' or oily. (it had texture but would not wipe off so it does not fit my definition of soot.) Also the Emiss Maint light is on which makes me think the problem is the motor running rich because a failed sensor is fighting a good one. My money is on a failed CTS fighting a good O2 sensor.

In addition the vacuum fixes, the plugs (champion copper), wires, distributor cap and roter, air filter, and coil were all replaced recently, and the cat is new within the last 1.5 years.

Thanks for all previous posts I never would have gotten this far without them. (i read about 120 pages on this thread alone)
Most sensors are actually labeled on the body of the sensor itself which terminal is which.

My bet is on a faulty throttle position sensor.

You're off to a good start - You have a PM so check your inbox
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 10:57 AM
  #4313  
Taekwondemers's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Saginaw, MI
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
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I need to know what year grand cherokee steering gear I can put into my 91 cherokee that has that Inline 6, I have some play in my steering. or how to go about rebuilding mine. Thank you
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 11:00 AM
  #4314  
dukie564's Avatar
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Premium Member
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Default

Originally Posted by Taekwondemers
I need to know what year grand cherokee steering gear I can put into my 91 cherokee that has that Inline 6, I have some play in my steering. or how to go about rebuilding mine. Thank you
If you're going to replace it, may as well upgrade. The grand cherokee steering box is the same as the cherokee box.

Steering box out of a 98/99 V8 Dodge Durango w/o the plow package bolts right in.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/du...houghts-84046/
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 11:31 AM
  #4315  
XJmotard's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 921
Likes: 1
From: havelock, nc
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Default

So...i see different jeep son here that have different random panels painted black. (I'm guessing some sort of bed liner paint?) But i was wondering what exactly someone has used, or someone they know has used...and if you just taped off the area and painted it over the vehicles paint?

I pretty much just like that look for some reason with like the front panel or rear panel painted black...

thanks
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 01:39 PM
  #4316  
askingxforxit's Avatar
CF Veteran
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,500
Likes: 0
From: Long Beach, Ca
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

Solved my alternator noise issue this morning. Installed the Cobra 25 WX NW ST

I wish I would have done this months ago!!
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 02:16 PM
  #4317  
askingxforxit's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,500
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From: Long Beach, Ca
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Best decision I've made so far with my cb install next to the wilson antenna

Last edited by askingxforxit; May 13, 2012 at 05:14 PM.
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 03:27 PM
  #4318  
jeepcherokee99's Avatar
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 275
Likes: 2
Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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My gf drives a 99 vw golf. Her car is always having battery problems n we thought we finally got it fixed. Now none of her gauges r working they r all off even while she is driving no heat reading no speed or rpm but it is driving normal. We have been told different things like the alternator is at high voltage not working properly and another place said it was wiring. Could this really b related the alternator? Does anyone kno wat could cause this?
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 03:39 PM
  #4319  
Taekwondemers's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Saginaw, MI
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Default

Originally Posted by dukie564
If you're going to replace it, may as well upgrade. The grand cherokee steering box is the same as the cherokee box.

Steering box out of a 98/99 V8 Dodge Durango w/o the plow package bolts right in.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/du...houghts-84046/

Thank you very much Dukie564!
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 03:50 PM
  #4320  
Japple650's Avatar
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
From: Lansing MI
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by askingxforxit
Best decision I've made so far with my cb install next to the wilson antenna
So your problem was the radio the whole time?



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