Really urgent question. About 2 days ago my jeep started lurching and bucking hard like it would if I had a bad tps. I figured I'd had to be bad gas or the tps, this little issue is now a big problem. That lurch gets much more noticeable on hard corners so much so that it'll actually stall my jeep. Here's the real kick in the ***** once it stalls it won't start unless i get a jump start. Anyone have any idea what's going on

 

This is probably a stupid question but would a header from a 95 wrangler fit on a 98 cherokee? It looks the same.

 

Here's the picture it looks like a dual exhaust, is there a way to connect them?

 

Will my '88 cherokee AC components work in my '95??

 

Isnt the 98 xj a single downpipe from the header

 

Yea, but can you put an adapter on the 2 pipe outlet?

 

Might be a negative due to spacing

 

I could get a wrangler exhaust pipe that comes down into a single pipe. But it might not fit or be aligned with the rest of my exhaust.

 

I don't wanna sound like I'm making this up, how well can you weld and do you have an exhaust shop nearby. Im not sure how those line up with the exhaust manifold but you can most likely fab up the down pipe. It's just the lining up at the manifold that i can't answer for sure

 

No experience welding. I think that you are right about fabbing a down pipe. Although I I would have to get a shop to do that. Might get expensive.

 

Has your XJ done this since you have had it? If so, the previous owner or a shop may have replaced the fuel pump. And if they did they may have left off the grommet deal on the bottom of the return line in the gas tank which keeps the fuel from running right back into the tank before it gets a chance to pressurize your lines. Mine was doing the same thing. found it by accident.
You can access the pump from the front of the fuel tank without dropping the tank.
I jacked up my Jeep and put Jack stands on the frame and let the rear axle hang down. When I got the lines off and the pump out the grommet was not on the return line and the pump assembly was in the tank cockeyed. When I saw the clean spot on the return line I knew something was supposed to be on there. I reached into the tank and at the bottom there was a little raised plate with a hole in it that had the grommet thing stuck into it. I pulled it out and put it on the return line and re assembled it and it starts every time without that long battery draining crank time. I would sometimes drain my battery down trying to get it to start. Now it starts after a couple of seconds. Renix are known for a long crank times, but not what you, I and other people with this problem have experienced.
ALSO, the little line that goes from the feed tube to the pump can sometimes get holes in it from the fuel eating it up. Change that out too. Mine was fine but it is a known problem and even if yours is fine too, replace it. Mine was getting soft and it left black soot on my hands after handling it. It was going south and I swapped it out for fresh fuel line.

That rotted hole in the fuel line will cause the same problem as the grommet thing, your engine cranks over and over until it sputters to a start and gets the fuel line pressurized. I also had to replace the starter relay that is just behind the battery towards the firewall on the fender well, it is silver with a bunch of wires on it and is a piece of crap. I bought a new one at Autozone and it starts every time with a nice strong starter crank. Before it would click several times and then finally the starter would turn over real slow and sounded like the battery was almost dead. It was that cheap a$$ relay.
I finally did the relay after I replaced almost every thing else. Everything helped a little bit but it was ultimately the relay. But now it starts like a brand new Jeep. lol!

Another thing I did was to bypass the stupid ballast resister on the driver side fender well. That is for the fuel pump and is supposed to keep it quiet when you are at a stop. It is just something to go wrong. I had a power loss for awhile and decided to bypass that thing. My XJ ran like a champ after I bypassed it. I was getting full fuel pressure and getting all my power from the motor. I don't hear my fuel pump at idle and I have a stock quiet exhaust. That was something to keep soccer mom's from taking it back to the dealership because of the funny noise I guess.

 

It sounds like a short in your electrical system. Could be the ignition switch, could be a wire under the hood connected to the battery that is touching something during acceleration or during a turn. If it was a 90 or older with the Renix system, I would say try the ballast resister on the driver side fender well. I bypassed mine because it was making my XJ run sluggish from lack of volts to the fuel pump.
Check all the wiring to you fuel pump. There could be a fuel pump wire that is rubbing underneath on the suspension. Crawl underneath your Jeep and trace all the wires going to the fuel pump. Check your relays to make sure one didn't come loose when you were off road. Try swapping relays to see if your fuel pump relay is starting to take a krap.

 

How far down is it going to hang with all that extra adapter pipe on it? You going to be dragging that crazy concoction on rocks and stuff?

I am wondering if it would just be better to get another header that is for your XJ. Sell that one to a Wrangler owner and get the right pipe.

$150 and free shipping on EBay, stainless steel XJ header. You can easily spend more than $150 trying to get some shop to fab up an adapter for that header. And then after they do all kinds of wacky bends and connectors to get it to fit underneath your XJ, you would loose the 5 hp gain from it.

A header on a V8 car that had cast iron log type exhaust manifolds would average about 15hp. Since the stock XJ pipe is really a header, an aftermarket header will only net you about 4 to 6hp max.

These are low rpm engines and a header doesn't help much. The 99+ intake manifold is the biggest hp multiplier for your XJ "about 20hp". Only a stroker kit would out do a head and intake upgrade, but combined it would be the best since it all compliments each other.


Here is the header on Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-99-JEEP-W...item231c7063d3

 

Are you referring to the slinky hose tube from the air box? That is not an EGR tube. It is a pre-heater hose to make your XJ warm up faster and have better emissions when is first started.

It is connected to the exhaust header which warms up very quickly and will warm the air going into intake/engine. When our XJ's are cold they don't run very efficiently and burn rich until the engine warms up to operating temperature. This helps it along and allows for better emissions when cold.

Once the engine warms up, the little vacuum flapper valve will shut that circuit off and your engine will then get it's air from the other inlet into the air box which I believe is at the front of the Jeep.

 

Unfortunately you don't want to do that. Your 88 has an R12 system and the 95 has an R134. If you put the 88 stuff on and put R134 in it, it will leak. I would go to the junk yard and get the stuff you need there from a 93+ XJ. I think 93 and newer have R134 systems. All the hoses and the compressor is sealed for R12 on your 88. The hoses will leak out along with the front shaft seal on the 88 since the R134 molecule is smaller than the R12 molecule.

And if you were to put R12 in the 95 with your 88 system, it would cost you $150 to fill it up since R12 is highly regulated and being completely phased out.

It sucks, I am going through a similar situation. I have a 90 and had to buy a new compressor, hoses, dryer for mine. It was all needing replacement so it was going to have to be done anyway. And since the R12 stuff is all being rebuilt to use R134 gas it was an easy decision.

I had to swap out the hoses since they won't hold the R134. I also swapped out the evaporator since the R12 oil left over in it will coagulate in the R134 gas and goop up the system.

If you get the stuff from the Jyard, look for a compressor that has no oil on the front, bottom of it where the seal is. Or look for one that looks replaced by a new or rebuilt compressor. With the belt off the compressor at the Jyard, turn the center of the pulley and not the outer pulley. This is so you can see if it is still good and not locked up from it coming apart on the inside. It will be fairly hard to turn but should turn and not feel like there is grinding or clunking. It is like turning an air compressor, it will feel stiff but turn.