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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 03:09 PM
  #4471  
usmccherokee's Avatar
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From: 29 palms california
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 strait 6
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aright thanks for the help. this just got a lot more expensive haha
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 03:11 PM
  #4472  
SqueakyT1O's Avatar
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From: MD
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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i know the feeling....mine are flat and i'm waiting for the extra funding for new springs
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 06:12 PM
  #4473  
'93 XJ's Avatar
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Model: Cherokee
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I have a '93 XJ country and my front, passenger side axle u-joint is effed. Is it hard to replace this or can I do this on my own?
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 06:15 PM
  #4474  
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From: Frederick, Maryland
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
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Originally Posted by dukie564
cranks are the same, mechanics are different due to bigger door size (length)

More heavy duty? no.
Thanks Ive got a buddy with a 95 two door and is having trouble getting all said above any sites or recommendations??
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #4475  
squigles's Avatar
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Model: Cherokee
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So I bought a 1992 Cherokee Sport in rough shape, thought I could just beat it to dust as a winter commuter, now I am thinking more and more about fixing it up. My number one concern before I tackle this frame/floor rust is making sure the frame is straight enough to bother with. Is there a way to check? If I bring it to a shop and it's not are they going to tell me not to drive it or something, or fix it and charge me? I am especially concerned because of the rust problem, which I will fix myself, but am worried what they might say/do. Is it expensive to have a frame checked for trueness?
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 08:56 PM
  #4476  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by squigles
So I bought a 1992 Cherokee Sport in rough shape, thought I could just beat it to dust as a winter commuter, now I am thinking more and more about fixing it up. My number one concern before I tackle this frame/floor rust is making sure the frame is straight enough to bother with. Is there a way to check? If I bring it to a shop and it's not are they going to tell me not to drive it or something, or fix it and charge me? I am especially concerned because of the rust problem, which I will fix myself, but am worried what they might say/do. Is it expensive to have a frame checked for trueness?
Well one thing I can tell you your Cherokee...It doesn't have a frame... The body on the other hand it's pretty tough and gets some sings and such. The xj has a unibody design. Instead of body put onto frame they made it as one big ol pile of rust and sorry for the history lesson probably cause Ive been drinking a little . Go fix up the rig these things can take a good beating
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 08:59 PM
  #4477  
-Dom-'s Avatar
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Posts: 1,056
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From: 813
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 str8 6
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How do I know what is wrong with my ac.
It only blows heat.
I hear the compressor kick on but no cold air.
Not even warm it's HOT!!
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 09:06 PM
  #4478  
squigles's Avatar
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Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Well one thing I can tell you your Cherokee...It doesn't have a frame... The body on the other hand it's pretty tough and gets some sings and such. The xj has a unibody design. Instead of body put onto frame they made it as one big ol pile of rust and sorry for the history lesson probably cause Ive been drinking a little . Go fix up the rig these things can take a good beating
I know it is a unibody with no frame but it still can get knocked out of alignment can't it? The body is also pretty beat up but I really want to build it up!
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 09:37 PM
  #4479  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by squigles

I know it is a unibody with no frame but it still can get knocked out of alignment can't it? The body is also pretty beat up but I really want to build it up!
Yea takin it to a shop can get you some answers but post some pics how bad are these knocks? Main alignment problems are with the driveline, tires etc as for the body yea some hardcore off roaders should answer that hopefully by the morning for ya. Def take pics though cause ive seen alot of xjs getting beaten and only alignment problems were due to lifts and undercarriage items like u joints and axle
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 09:58 PM
  #4480  
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I thought I would just get some doors from a junkyard but I have seen little info on door replacement. otherwise the dent on the test quarter panel I thought I could pull out. I really don't know how bad it is.
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 10:10 PM
  #4481  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by squigles
I thought I would just get some doors from a junkyard but I have seen little info on door replacement. otherwise the dent on the test quarter panel I thought I could pull out. I really don't know how bad it is.
Looks like it been in a war zone but not too worry. Brag thing bout the xj you can get so many different years of parts and they'll work. For the doors yea pick some up from the JY. If I can picture it right it's just the two brackets the pin and any electric shouldn't be too bad if you're willing to get dirty. As for re other dents yea dent on flat panels can generally be pulled out and then painted. Dents on edges are harder but other than the doors the other dents shouldn't be a problem. And any dents by the fenders don't stress cause if you wanna get tires like 33"+ you'll be doin some trimming. Overall go for it. Any xj owner will tell you they put a hell of a lot of time and money into their Rigs but it was well worth it
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 10:29 PM
  #4482  
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From: Las Vegas
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.oL H.O. 784 injectors, EV6 to EV1 connectors, APN header, Dynomax exhaust
Default Need help

Seems I have the starting woes everyone else does....

Already replaced/fixed:

Battery
Battery cables (pos/neg)
Starter
NSS (Cleaned)

Next is the ignition switch and relay.

Need to know how to remove the trim panels around the steering column.
There are no screws on the lower (closest to the dash panel) trim ring. The one surrounding the signal/light switch, tilt lever and ignition cylinder has a seam but no pry point to unlock them.

Do I have to remove the steering wheel??

I know the switch part is easy, two bolts and align the rod properly but I need to know how to get in there without permanently destroying the trim covers.
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 11:18 PM
  #4483  
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Model: Cherokee
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I went to the dealership today to get a checkup on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L Sport 134,000 miles. They said my engine had a ton of oil leaks: Frontcrank seal, oil pan gasket, oil adapter housing seal, upper gasket set, valve cover gasket. The Jeep runs fine. The oil pressure is usually around 30 psi but can get down to 10 psi or less at idle(never 0 psi). The oil level has stayed consistent for 3 months. Will it damage my engine if I don't get these seals fixed? As long as oil is still circulating in the engine everything should be fine right? I tried to search these threads and couldn't find an adequate answer. Thanks for any help.
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 05:04 AM
  #4484  
havensov's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 847
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From: Battle Creek, MI
Year: '92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by tlaf2004
I went to the dealership today to get a checkup on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L Sport 134,000 miles. They said my engine had a ton of oil leaks: Frontcrank seal, oil pan gasket, oil adapter housing seal, upper gasket set, valve cover gasket. The Jeep runs fine. The oil pressure is usually around 30 psi but can get down to 10 psi or less at idle(never 0 psi). The oil level has stayed consistent for 3 months. Will it damage my engine if I don't get these seals fixed? As long as oil is still circulating in the engine everything should be fine right? I tried to search these threads and couldn't find an adequate answer. Thanks for any help.
As long as you have oil (ie keep and eye on it) then you are fine.

Jeeps don't leak, they just mark their territory!
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 05:09 AM
  #4485  
96xjclassic's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,880
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From: Frederick, Maryland
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
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Originally Posted by duafacia
Seems I have the starting woes everyone else does....

Already replaced/fixed:

Battery
Battery cables (pos/neg)
Starter
NSS (Cleaned)

Next is the ignition switch and relay.

Need to know how to remove the trim panels around the steering column.
There are no screws on the lower (closest to the dash panel) trim ring. The one surrounding the signal/light switch, tilt lever and ignition cylinder has a seam but no pry point to unlock them.

Do I have to remove the steering wheel??

I know the switch part is easy, two bolts and align the rod properly but I need to know how to get in there without permanently destroying the trim covers.
First uncsrew your tilt arm if you have one.Then Look under the trim, There is three holes. You need a torx 15 screwdriver I believe. After that gently open.In the back there are two snap hooks you will need to squeeze to open.Then your in.Good luck.



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