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CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,880
Likes: 0
From: Frederick, Maryland
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
So I bought a 1992 Cherokee Sport in rough shape, thought I could just beat it to dust as a winter commuter, now I am thinking more and more about fixing it up. My number one concern before I tackle this frame/floor rust is making sure the frame is straight enough to bother with. Is there a way to check? If I bring it to a shop and it's not are they going to tell me not to drive it or something, or fix it and charge me? I am especially concerned because of the rust problem, which I will fix myself, but am worried what they might say/do. Is it expensive to have a frame checked for trueness?
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by squigles
So I bought a 1992 Cherokee Sport in rough shape, thought I could just beat it to dust as a winter commuter, now I am thinking more and more about fixing it up. My number one concern before I tackle this frame/floor rust is making sure the frame is straight enough to bother with. Is there a way to check? If I bring it to a shop and it's not are they going to tell me not to drive it or something, or fix it and charge me? I am especially concerned because of the rust problem, which I will fix myself, but am worried what they might say/do. Is it expensive to have a frame checked for trueness?
. Go fix up the rig these things can take a good beating
Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Well one thing I can tell you your Cherokee...It doesn't have a frame... The body on the other hand it's pretty tough and gets some sings and such. The xj has a unibody design. Instead of body put onto frame they made it as one big ol pile of rust and sorry for the history lesson probably cause Ive been drinking a little
. Go fix up the rig these things can take a good beatingCF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by squigles
I know it is a unibody with no frame but it still can get knocked out of alignment can't it? The body is also pretty beat up but I really want to build it up!
I thought I would just get some doors from a junkyard but I have seen little info on door replacement. otherwise the dent on the test quarter panel I thought I could pull out. I really don't know how bad it is.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by squigles
I thought I would just get some doors from a junkyard but I have seen little info on door replacement. otherwise the dent on the test quarter panel I thought I could pull out. I really don't know how bad it is.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.oL H.O. 784 injectors, EV6 to EV1 connectors, APN header, Dynomax exhaust
Seems I have the starting woes everyone else does....
Already replaced/fixed:
Battery
Battery cables (pos/neg)
Starter
NSS (Cleaned)
Next is the ignition switch and relay.
Need to know how to remove the trim panels around the steering column.
There are no screws on the lower (closest to the dash panel) trim ring. The one surrounding the signal/light switch, tilt lever and ignition cylinder has a seam but no pry point to unlock them.
Do I have to remove the steering wheel??
I know the switch part is easy, two bolts and align the rod properly but I need to know how to get in there without permanently destroying the trim covers.
Already replaced/fixed:
Battery
Battery cables (pos/neg)
Starter
NSS (Cleaned)
Next is the ignition switch and relay.
Need to know how to remove the trim panels around the steering column.
There are no screws on the lower (closest to the dash panel) trim ring. The one surrounding the signal/light switch, tilt lever and ignition cylinder has a seam but no pry point to unlock them.
Do I have to remove the steering wheel??
I know the switch part is easy, two bolts and align the rod properly but I need to know how to get in there without permanently destroying the trim covers.
I went to the dealership today to get a checkup on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L Sport 134,000 miles. They said my engine had a ton of oil leaks: Frontcrank seal, oil pan gasket, oil adapter housing seal, upper gasket set, valve cover gasket. The Jeep runs fine. The oil pressure is usually around 30 psi but can get down to 10 psi or less at idle(never 0 psi). The oil level has stayed consistent for 3 months. Will it damage my engine if I don't get these seals fixed? As long as oil is still circulating in the engine everything should be fine right? I tried to search these threads and couldn't find an adequate answer. Thanks for any help.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 847
Likes: 2
From: Battle Creek, MI
Year: '92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I went to the dealership today to get a checkup on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L Sport 134,000 miles. They said my engine had a ton of oil leaks: Frontcrank seal, oil pan gasket, oil adapter housing seal, upper gasket set, valve cover gasket. The Jeep runs fine. The oil pressure is usually around 30 psi but can get down to 10 psi or less at idle(never 0 psi). The oil level has stayed consistent for 3 months. Will it damage my engine if I don't get these seals fixed? As long as oil is still circulating in the engine everything should be fine right? I tried to search these threads and couldn't find an adequate answer. Thanks for any help.
Jeeps don't leak, they just mark their territory!
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,880
Likes: 0
From: Frederick, Maryland
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
Seems I have the starting woes everyone else does....
Already replaced/fixed:
Battery
Battery cables (pos/neg)
Starter
NSS (Cleaned)
Next is the ignition switch and relay.
Need to know how to remove the trim panels around the steering column.
There are no screws on the lower (closest to the dash panel) trim ring. The one surrounding the signal/light switch, tilt lever and ignition cylinder has a seam but no pry point to unlock them.
Do I have to remove the steering wheel??
I know the switch part is easy, two bolts and align the rod properly but I need to know how to get in there without permanently destroying the trim covers.
Already replaced/fixed:
Battery
Battery cables (pos/neg)
Starter
NSS (Cleaned)
Next is the ignition switch and relay.
Need to know how to remove the trim panels around the steering column.
There are no screws on the lower (closest to the dash panel) trim ring. The one surrounding the signal/light switch, tilt lever and ignition cylinder has a seam but no pry point to unlock them.
Do I have to remove the steering wheel??
I know the switch part is easy, two bolts and align the rod properly but I need to know how to get in there without permanently destroying the trim covers.




