When I put my ZJ springs in, I didn't.

 

Thanks, I was able to get the bolts loose, so I dropped the front U-joint anyway. (Match-marked it too)

Next question; the passenger side of the front track bar mounts to the axle housing with a bolt through it.

This bolt seems to go into a nut that is buried way up in the mounting bracket.

The bolt doesn't want to turn easily.

Are they prone to snapping off?

If so, is the nut behind it welded to the bracket, or will it fall free when the bolt snaps?

I am doing a 3" lift, & need to re-drill the bracket & move this bolt 3/4" inboard to keep the axle centered.

I will check back in a few, thanks for the help!


EDIT;lift is done, & axle seems centered enough. Gonna try it like this, & see how it rides.

 

If you can jack the rear end/front end/or any corner up to the point that you have no gas touching the hold, just go get some JB Weld, it's like $4-5 at any hardware store.. it takes like 24 hours to fully cure. But, it is 100% gas proof, and has fixed more than one tank/steel line for me. Heck, it held a 4" long crack in an oil pan, and a chipped head, on a crappy old pickup I had.. lasted 2 and a half years like that, then i sold it.. still holding.

 

what are the lower tube arms on both sides holding the front diff in place called mine are letting it move when i hit the brakes are ther bushings to replace both grease certs are broke off

 

So I patched the one hole, but am worried about other possible leaks under the plastic skid plate. Should I cut it off and look, it has already been cut on the sides where the other leak is.

 

i did not read well before i posted

 

I totally agree but the straps and j-bolts are so rusty they are a definite replace part. I am also replacing the tank soon, I just want to patch it to drive it to where I can pull the tank off and replace it.

 

I ended up doing mine in a parking lot if you cut and replace the old j bolts it would actually go fairly fast (1.5 hrs or less)

 

anybody?

 

Technically, Yes.. as long as you didn't try to run it in 4wd for any reason. But, be sure to really plug those holes from the front shaft.. there's A LOT of possibility for anything to get in there.. and that could really mess things up for you.

 

I'm gonna do a wiring harness for my headlights. I have factory fog lights, will I run into the problem of my high beams staying on with the low beams and how do I fix it. Thank you

 

Not if you wire it correctly. There is a high beam connection and a low beam connection on the bulb so long as the power gets shut off to the other or the power is just switched one to the other you should be alright.

 

I'm getting an intermittant code off the crank position sensor so it sounds like its getting time to replace it.

In previous discussions, I've seen suggestions that some aftermarket CKPS are not reliable.

Any suggestions on which manufacturer to avoid and which to prefer?

 

dealer napa,bennet no auto zone or advanced

 

ok, the two vaccume lines under the coolant bottle, where do they go? Our fans are stuck on defrost. I may or may not have pulled the black one out the other day and the pinkish one has a gaping hole in it. Dukie?