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CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by 96xjclassic
A little warmer today. For the first time I saw my temp gauge over 210, If I had to guess I would say closer to 215 or 220. Is this something to worry about?? What temp do you guys run when its warmer??
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
From: Rocket Country MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
how do you tell the * of your shims without removing them i.e. how thick is the fat end
i need to order up a bigger pair and don't remember what ones i put in
i need to order up a bigger pair and don't remember what ones i put in
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
2003 Cherokee lorado std V8 auto 4 wheel
Local repair shop suspects faulty fuel pump causing intermittant stalling and subequent no start condition. What is acceptable fuel pressure reading at fuel rail? Is there a possibility of intermittant pump malfuction not caused by electrical fault?
Arniebud
Arniebud
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
Originally Posted by ydduba
Local repair shop suspects faulty fuel pump causing intermittant stalling and subequent no start condition. What is acceptable fuel pressure reading at fuel rail? Is there a possibility of intermittant pump malfuction not caused by electrical fault?
Arniebud
Arniebud
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, AB
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: V8 5.2
ABS Light
Hey my ABS light came one this morning, hasn't gone off since. Reading around and think it could be my ABS sensors... would kind of make sense as of late it has been very dirty on the roads with salt and sand. Has anyone here gone through the steps of cleaning the sensors on a 97 grand. BTW I think its my sensors as my braking is fine, nothing has actually changed with the light coming on. Thanks!
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
From: Rocket Country MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: bone, idaho
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I just bought a 90 xj, it has issues but the price was right.
The short version of my question is I am checking the sensors that feed the RENIX brain and some of the tests require checking terminals identified by letters. My chilton manual (the latest version) is not helpful in ID'ing which is which. Does any one have the appropriate pages from a service manual to help me figure out what I am doing? FYI I am also using the modified jabbathahutt write up on http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm to work through the sensors.
thanks, read on if you want to check my thought process/diagnossis
If it had a carb I would say it has choke issues. The idle is low (if the tach is to be trusted <400) when it is cold as it warms it gets worse at 200-210 F it dies.
It is undriveable as is.
When I first got the jeep friday night the idle was erratic jumping around between 50- 1500 rpm and was marginally drivable. The exhaust smelled like raw gas and it had a knock that occurred at about 2k ~3k rpm with a corresponding loss of power (for the time being I am assuming the knock sensor is ok for that reason.) After 3k the power would jump and by about 4.5K the power felt about 'right'.
A thorough going over of the vacuum system yielded a disconnected EGR solenoid (hose pluged w/ a screw), the CCV fitting on the manifold and the hose connecting it to the the valve cover gasket was a mess, and multiple cracked hoses were 'fixed' with electrical tape.
When I checked the plugs the ceramic insulators were black but not 'sooty' or oily. (it had texture but would not wipe off so it does not fit my definition of soot.) Also the Emiss Maint light is on which makes me think the problem is the motor running rich because a failed sensor is fighting a good one. My money is on a failed CTS fighting a good O2 sensor.
In addition the vacuum fixes, the plugs (champion copper), wires, distributor cap and roter, air filter, and coil were all replaced recently, and the cat is new within the last 1.5 years.
Thanks for all previous posts I never would have gotten this far without them. (i read about 120 pages on this thread alone)
The short version of my question is I am checking the sensors that feed the RENIX brain and some of the tests require checking terminals identified by letters. My chilton manual (the latest version) is not helpful in ID'ing which is which. Does any one have the appropriate pages from a service manual to help me figure out what I am doing? FYI I am also using the modified jabbathahutt write up on http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm to work through the sensors.
thanks, read on if you want to check my thought process/diagnossis
If it had a carb I would say it has choke issues. The idle is low (if the tach is to be trusted <400) when it is cold as it warms it gets worse at 200-210 F it dies.
It is undriveable as is.
When I first got the jeep friday night the idle was erratic jumping around between 50- 1500 rpm and was marginally drivable. The exhaust smelled like raw gas and it had a knock that occurred at about 2k ~3k rpm with a corresponding loss of power (for the time being I am assuming the knock sensor is ok for that reason.) After 3k the power would jump and by about 4.5K the power felt about 'right'.
A thorough going over of the vacuum system yielded a disconnected EGR solenoid (hose pluged w/ a screw), the CCV fitting on the manifold and the hose connecting it to the the valve cover gasket was a mess, and multiple cracked hoses were 'fixed' with electrical tape.
When I checked the plugs the ceramic insulators were black but not 'sooty' or oily. (it had texture but would not wipe off so it does not fit my definition of soot.) Also the Emiss Maint light is on which makes me think the problem is the motor running rich because a failed sensor is fighting a good one. My money is on a failed CTS fighting a good O2 sensor.
In addition the vacuum fixes, the plugs (champion copper), wires, distributor cap and roter, air filter, and coil were all replaced recently, and the cat is new within the last 1.5 years.
Thanks for all previous posts I never would have gotten this far without them. (i read about 120 pages on this thread alone)
Last edited by trug; Apr 17, 2011 at 05:39 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Piscataquis County, Maine
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cylinder, 4 liter
Earlier today, I read a great thread (from 2009, can't find it now) started by a guy from Louisiana who had the same problem I'm having, no spark. He solved the problem by cleaning the NSS, plugging it in and "holy heck, the pig started". Everyone was happy for him and congratulated him. So was I, except. No where in the tread had anyone mentioned the nss or described what it stood for. So I'm asking, "what is the nss?"
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: bone, idaho
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Earlier today, I read a great thread (from 2009, can't find it now) started by a guy from Louisiana who had the same problem I'm having, no spark. He solved the problem by cleaning the NSS, plugging it in and "holy heck, the pig started". Everyone was happy for him and congratulated him. So was I, except. No where in the tread had anyone mentioned the nss or described what it stood for. So I'm asking, "what is the nss?"
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 917
Likes: 101
Earlier today, I read a great thread (from 2009, can't find it now) started by a guy from Louisiana who had the same problem I'm having, no spark. He solved the problem by cleaning the NSS, plugging it in and "holy heck, the pig started". Everyone was happy for him and congratulated him. So was I, except. No where in the tread had anyone mentioned the nss or described what it stood for. So I'm asking, "what is the nss?"
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by Kuro89
If the problem was the neutral safety switch wouldn't it not turn over to begin with?
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
From: Roscoe, IL
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242 Power Tech I6
Although I'm coming in the middle of the convo somewhat, I have a problem with my NSS during the winter time. If I parked her to fast next time I try to start up nothing happens so I have to cycle through my gears and start in neutral and she would start right up. I've heard of people cleaning it but i never tried it myself.
I had this problem 3 times last winter.. the last was during those really damn cold day, here in the Chicago-area. Finally, I just bypassed my NSS completely, with $12 of wires & a switch, ran a positive from the end of my fuse box, put a 30-amp inline. I still need the key in the "on" position, but then I push a button to actually start it up. I've not had a single problem since. ..except for my starter going out a couple months later. but, that was just due.
It came out pretty nice. I found a nice round push-button, and placed it in lieu of one of my accessory power outlets.
Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
From: lavergne
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
my jeep is on 33s with stock gears and everything im gonna get 456 gears soon but how wcan i get me speedo and milige fixed is it the little gear in the tail end of the tcase i need to get and if so how many teeth do i need to get thanks