thank you sir. i got it figured out it turns out the relay was gummed up i pulled it aprt cleand it out added contacted jelly works like its brand new.

 

Clean the outer part of the shaft with steel wool. To persuade it off, use some little wooden shim shingles and drive them under it in 2 places.

 

Engine knock after cylinder head reworked and oil change. I had the cylinder head reworked recently. It was decked (not a lot just a bit to make it perfectly flat again), cleaned, new guides and springs installed. I was running Mobil 1 full synthetic before. After putting the head back on and running about 100 miles, I changed the oil. Mind you the engine had zero knock at this point. I put Pennzoil 10W-30 in at oil change. Now I have a slight knock that sounds like it is coming from the lower end of the 4.0. It is not a valve tick. It sounds just like this video. Not my video but the sound is just the same. I have 163,000 miles on my 99.


It goes away under load or acceleration but comes back at idle. Mine is not as loud as the video but it sounds like a quite Cummings diesel. I read it could be torque converter bolts. Any suggestions?

 

Did some more digging. I think this is the issue. Now I have something to do next weekend.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/ho...ocking-125547/

 

Here's how to fix converter bolts. and below that is how to check for cracked flexplate.

What brand of oil filter are you using?

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/ho...ocking-125547/

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fou...emoval-171945/

 

Just got done checking the bolts and flex plate. Bolts tight and plate is fine. Still making the noise. I am running a Bosh filter.

My guess is the reworked cylinder head the problem????? This is why I come to the infinite wisdom of the Cherokee forum.

 

Got'er done. Went... surprisingly well? Really, I was expecting mayhem and damnation with my coming back on here to scream about how life is evil. Instead, it went rather well. The zip-ties blow big time, but everything else came apart and went back together nicely for being 22 years old. I have pics for a CF write-up I am going to put together.

 

Can you use a mechanic's stethoscope to narrow down the area it's coming from ?

 

Alright guys another front end clunk question cause I don't want to start another thread for it. It happens when I am turning and also when I take off from a stop. It really only clunks under around 10-15 mph. I replaced the tie rod end that attatches to the driver side knuckle this weekend, no go. Track bar is tight, I had that issue a few weeks back with the mount being loose. I jacked up the heep and did the 12 and 6 test along with the 3 and 9 test. 12 and 6 felt fine when I used my hands but 3 and 9 had eome play. Thats why I replaced the TRE. It doesnt pop over bumps, only when turning and taking off from a stop. It sounds like metal on metal if that helps. I also just replaced the UCAs with adjustables. My rig is lifted 4.5" on 32s. It also wont pop if I have someone turn the wheel. Im thinking its either axle u-joints, unit bearings or ball joints. Any thoughts?

 

Why don't I have tail, running, or dash lights? 2000 xj Whatever happened happened within the last hour because I stopped for gas and noticed I left my lights on because my tail lights were on I plugged my door jamb sensor back in so the alarm would work and now no tail lights or dash lights

Fuses look good has a new headlight switch I am scratching my head on this one

 

They're all on the same fuse I think... Check for current in the fuse spot.

 

two separate fuses my meter is at work I'm thinking it may be the headlight switch parts store switches probably aren't the best quality I changed the fuses to no avail I just don't see how they stopped working between the gas station and here

 

Fuse should have blown lol. That makes things easier. Headlights work? I suppose a contact in the switch could have gone out.

 

Check your track bar bolt. It may be tight but the hole may be wallowed out. I had the same issue Til I put a larger bolt in it and drilled out my track bar sleeve. Now it's tight and doesn't move around. Have someone turn your wheel full lock back and forth while your under the front. It'll help narrow it down

 

Regarding the NSS, has anyone ever had the shifter get stiffer not because of the retaining nut but instead the mounting bolt? My NSS is back on flush all the way as far as I can tell and push, yet with the retaining nut barely hand tight and the mounting bolt 'torqued' down, I still have a tiny bit of stiffness. It was worse before and even loosing the retaining nut all the way didnt fix it like loosening the mounting bolt did... aside from that it works fine. Starts in park, neutral and I have reverse lights.