wouldn't you need something insulated?

 

what's the history with this rig?regular tune-ups? good fuel? need more input...

 

Not sure on a 96' but with 97'-01's you can cycle the key on and off then start it. If it fires up better than normal this can indicate you either have a leaky injector(s) or a bad check valve in the fuel pump. This is typically for Jeeps with long crank times before firing, however your symptom could be related.

 

Same for the earlier ones. Indicates a bad fuel pump check valve or leaky injector. It IS more common on the later models though.

 

Thanks for backing this up

 

under normal driving conditions

what would be a severe temp? as for the hubs / rotor warping

just curious, been refurbing front set. rubber hoses next, think theyre decrepit, new calipers still slightly touch pad to rotor (powerstop drilled/slotted kit)

7 miles highway to work this AM, braked very little .. temp was 115* F

drove a few miles just now, lotsa stoplights, traffic .. temp was approx 210* F on each side

 

For whatever reason, when I hit a bump or encounter some rough road in my 98 Cherokee Classic, the dash goes out all together. All gauges go dead. Then when I hit another bump, it comes back on. It seems to be more intermittent as the weather gets colder. I checked all fuses and visible wires and found nothing obvious loose. I can manage the fuel level by the odometer but i am not comfortable with no oil pressure or temperature gauges and no speedo.

Any ideas?

 

Clean the gauge cluster ground.

 

Recommended gear oil for a D30 with a Lock Right lunchbox locker? I have a trade lined up...

 

I change mine often so I run store brand 80w-90. Lunchbox lockers don't need anything special, you could run the heavier 90w-140 or whatever it is too though.

Get some extra pins and springs for that lock-**** locker.

 

They that bad? I'd prefer an Aussie, but it's a trade. I figure it's better than being open.

 

I'm not a fan of them. The ones I have seen have been noisy and their material isn't as hard of a steel as others.

 

Gotcha. Thanks for the insight.

 

After getting all the "little" things worked out, I'm finally at the point where I am ready to start having a little more fun with the Jeep. I ordered the Skyjacker 3" kit, so besides some 31's, what is the next thing suspension-wise I should do? Sway bar links? Track bar? I'd like to hear what you all think.

 

Sway-bar links up front and track bar should be a part of any lift over 2", whether in a kit or something you tack on. I ordered extended links for a not-so-quick-disconnection setup, and relocated my track bar by drilling a new hole. Rear sway can go, it's very useless. Longer brake lines are a good idea, anything that was old will suddenly show you how old it was like U joints and steering linkage. If you replace the steering order bits for a ZJ with V8, nice little upgrade for almost the same price.