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With that one sentence you've surpassed the alleged expert level of knowledge at JP Magazine.

And yes I'm still bitter about that absolute sham of an article that was nothing other than an ad for T&T Customs.

 

I don't know what you're talking about... the article at least.

I think the only problem with people and the XJ's cooling system is that people don't overhaul it AS A SYSTEM.

Oh, I'm overheating. Let's put a tsat in. Still overheating, oh let's put a new water pump in, etc.

Its not always one thing... especially with 20 year old factory parts. The water pump may be a bit slow due to the bearing, the tsat might not open all the way, the rad is probably a bit clogged the hoses collapse a little the fan clutch is bad. ALL contributing to an insufficient cooling system.

Do it all.

Now my question, I have a sunroof and when all my windows are up and I'm on the highway I can hear some wind noise like my sunroof window is being sucked up a little bit. I know for sure its it because if I just push ever so slightly on it I get the same noise.

If I bought/made a vent shade type thing for the sunroof window, would that deflect the wind to stop it ?

 

well my secondary fan stopped working and I figured id upgrade if it was worth it

 

Last year they had this huge promotion on the cover for REAR COIL CHEROKEE SWAP that sounded really badass. Once you got inside the thing was tripe. It can be summarized very easily:

"We went to T&T Customs and spent a bazillion dollars on every single product they have and paid them to do all the work, we didn't even need to wash our hands. SO BADASS! Then we took it for a drive and it overheated because XJs suck"

The same issue has "AWESOME DIESEL SWAPS", which is an inventory of companies that do the work for you (mostly 4BTs into JKs); "AWESOME OLD CJ", which is an editor interviewing a personal friend (yeah that's some quality ****ing journalism in there. The most technical the article gets is the owner bragging about the V8's headers); and a bit of Bimmer-level epic fail at the end that compares driving a 10 MPG trail rig to work to purchasing a $20k 25 MPG commuter over two years.

I'm getting off topic lol. Carry on.

 

Do a Canadian red neck fix to the terminals. Lead melts at 621.5*F, so just get a soldering iron that's capable of producing 900*F at the tip and melt the clamps to the battery posts in several spots.

 

That's right eh. Torch 'er in good.

Last night I was reading a Detroit Diesel 71 Series maintenance guide, and the process to change the flywheel ring gear is something like:

Removal: Cut the ring gear with a grinder so that it pops. Drive it apart (spread) and take it off.

Installation: Heat ring gear until it glows red hot. Place on flywheel and let it cool.

 

I'd agree, these things sold like popcorn at the movies when they were new, and I don't recall any issues with them overheating back then.

However, they can be miserably difficult to diagnose... I replaced the water pump, t-stat and all hoses when I fixed the disintegrating piston problem mine had when I bought it, but overheated when on the I-10 last summer in a hurry to get to Phoenix with the A/C running. Installed an aluminum 2 row radiator, no improvement, new NAPA fan clutch, no improvement. At this point, there's nothing left but the heater core, which has nothing to do with cooling the engine except in an emergency, and that'll get replaced when I put a new evaporator in. Another new (170 degrees this time) thermostat, new sending unit, now it doesn't overheat anymore, but runs at about 180 unless in traffic after a heat soak, plus the A/C quit and it's now winter, so no more 110 degrees. Waiting to see how it acts next summer when the A/C is working again and it gets hot outside...

Reading posts in this forum, it seems a bit subjective as to exactly what "overheating" means. I guess it's when the needle pegs and the buzzer goes off, but I'd love to never see it over 210 no matter what, my 2002 Chevy truck sits at about 190 with/without A/C running, towing a 7200lb trailer up a 6% grade 5 miles in summer, or sitting in LA traffic for an hour. It just might never work like that, I guess... I do want to look at the radiator with an IR thermometer when it's really hot, and see if the water flow is even across the whole core. I wonder if the tubes are a bit too fat, which lets most of the flow go through just the top few rows. Massive flow capacity in the core does no good if the system flow isn't enough to force water through all the tubes.

 

Neeever gonnna happen lol. XJ's normal operating range is between 195 and 218.

A lot of people overlook the importance of the fan shrouds. Very important on these vehicles.

 

So many people don't realize now hot an xj is actually suppose to run. I remember by, then girlfriend, borrowed my day and calls me and says my jeep is or heating. I ask her what the temp was. She says around 210.i died laughing telling her that's normal

 

My YJ (effectively the same in this regard) suits right at 195° when moving. I get up to around 205 idling and 210 wheeling.

MJ never passed 200 after I overhauled the cooling system.

 

Anybody know where I can find some new bellhousing bolts online? I lost mine somehow while removing my engine. I looked on hesco and couldn't find any. Should I just try and find some at the JY?

 

Homedepot- Lowes there nothing special. ...M12x1.75x50

 

Are you sure about those bolt dimensions?

Which year XJ uses Metric bolts?

 

My 89 uses metric and standard nuts and bolts..........but thats mine.

 

Found in 1998 parts fiche

2 06034795 2 EN0 DBB SCREW, Hex Head, .375-16x2.00, Clutch Housing to Spacer Plate, Mounting

4 06100952 2 EN0 DBB SCREW, Hex Head, M12-1.75x55, Clutch Housing to Spacer Plate, Mounting

6 06100345 2 EP0 DBB SCREW AND WASHER, Hex Flange Head, M12x1.75x45, Clutch Housing to Engine Block, Mounting

10 11504922 2 EP0 DBB BOLT , Hex Head, M12x1.75x50, Clutch Housing to Engine Block, Mounting

11 34201837 2 EP0 DBB BOLT , Hex Flange Head, M12x1.75x90, Clutch Housing to Engine Block, Mounting


The 3/8 bolts (#2) are the two at the top.