Ah. If they said "soon" back when you put big tires on that explains it.

Offset ball joints are for tweaked axles. Only necessary to correct messed up camber.

 

OK thanks salad. That's what I was thinking, just wanted to verify.

 

Is it normal for an aw4 to take a very large amount of throttle (pretty much floored) to unlock the torque converter and downshift to accelerate? Seems abnormal to me. I have adjusted the tv cable.

 

What's the best way to test ball joints? (98 XJ, 4x4)

 

My 96 clam shell is held together with Phillips also lol

 

Nope. What is the level and condition of your ATF? Ever test the TPS?

Don't know about "best" but "standard" is to jack up the Jeep, grab the tires at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock, and try to shake them. There should be no movement in-and-out or vertically.

 

Absolutely not.

 

I drained and filled the trans a couple months ago. Planning on doing it again sometime, but level is good and color is pretty good now too. (Never changed behavior after drain and fill btw)
How would I go about testing the tps? I know I've tried to look that up before but I guess I've never found anything. Otherwise the trans shifts beautifully, downshifting just fine in the lower gears.
Thanks for the help

 

Check this out. Courtesy of our friend tjwalker


The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.

 

Also, click on the link in my signature and go to Post 10.

 

Don't know about "best" but "standard" is to jack up the Jeep, grab the tires at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock, and try to shake them. There should be no movement in-and-out or vertically.[/QUOTE]

As I thought. I was looking for confirmation or alternate testing methodology. Thanks for your answer.

 

Is a D35 with a tru-track LSD still just a pile?

 

In fact it's a pile with a heap.

If the LSD still works (doubtful) it'd be fun with some 31" tires. If its cheap. Clutch pack isn't even worth rebuilding. 29-spline C8.25 with a lunchbox locker is much better bang for your buck.

 

Thanks guys. I'll report back.

 

I have some bubbles forming/hissing coming from a few of my cylinder head bolts. Improper torquing, or something else?