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Old Sep 14, 2013 | 06:54 AM
  #35371  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by tssguy123
So... I dunno if anyone remembers but I'm getting a huge knock when I shift from drive to reverse and vice versa. Jacked it off the ground this afternoon and looked for any play in the u-joints. They seemed fine to me, and most of the play seemed to be coming from the transmission itself.

Between that and the kind of jerky/slow shifts, I'm starting to worry that my transmission is going bad.

I took a video of myself messing with the DS trying to find any play as well as someone sitting in the Jeep and shifting between Drive/Reverse.

Any suggestions for diagnosing further?
Visually inspect your engine mounts and trans mount. Make sure the bolts are in the trans mount!!
Old Sep 14, 2013 | 07:08 AM
  #35372  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by ccooper1234
Can someone tell me why the engine idles so high in park but not in drive or reverse? I started it up it idled at 2k, shift to reverse it dropped down to 1500, shift to drive and it goes to 2500 and I'm riding the brakes down the road. I stop and its idling at 3k in park. All this stops once the engine gets up to 210°F
The idle target is 750 RPM. When in P or N the transmission is in neutral and the torque coverter freewheels. All other gears have the engine spinning the torque converter while the transmission is still (if you're on the brakes). Sounds like you've got a vacuum leak or sensor issue that either seals up or a circuit closes once things expand from heat. I'd guess vac leak it changes under load.
Old Sep 14, 2013 | 07:11 AM
  #35373  
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
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Originally Posted by salad

The idle target is 750 RPM. When in P or N the transmission is in neutral and the torque coverter freewheels. All other gears have the engine spinning the torque converter while the transmission is still (if you're on the brakes). Sounds like you've got a vacuum leak or sensor issue that either seals up or a circuit closes once things expand from heat. I'd guess vac leak it changes under load.
Best way to find vacuum leak
Old Sep 14, 2013 | 07:15 AM
  #35374  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by ccooper1234
Best way to find vacuum leak
Spray suspected areas with throttle body cleaner or oxygen sensor safe carb cleaner.
Old Sep 14, 2013 | 07:16 AM
  #35375  
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Spray suspected areas with throttle body cleaner or oxygen sensor safe carb cleaner.
And it will bubble up?
Old Sep 14, 2013 | 07:18 AM
  #35376  
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NO! It's vacuum, not pressure. The cleaner will temporarily either seal the leak, or get sucked into the engine and the engine speed will change.
Old Sep 14, 2013 | 10:07 AM
  #35377  
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From: Canton, GA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by fatboyadams
How does the transmission mount look? Can you move the transmission itself really easy?
The transmission seems like it's pretty solid. The movement looks like it's coming from inside.

Originally Posted by cruiser54
Visually inspect your engine mounts and trans mount. Make sure the bolts are in the trans mount!!
Will do.
Old Sep 14, 2013 | 10:18 AM
  #35378  
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From: Marshfield, Missouri
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
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ok so this makes me feel dumb even asking. but I am in the middle of taking the front two corner bumper plastics off and ran in a weird looking "nut" . they also are what is holding the plastic strip(air dam) onto the metal bumper. they dont have anything to grab the heads with and the back looks similar to a wing nut but wit three folds. how the heck do ya get em off? or do you just trash em and trow em out?
Old Sep 14, 2013 | 10:43 AM
  #35379  
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From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by codykrr
ok so this makes me feel dumb even asking. but I am in the middle of taking the front two corner bumper plastics off and ran in a weird looking "nut" . they also are what is holding the plastic strip(air dam) onto the metal bumper. they dont have anything to grab the heads with and the back looks similar to a wing nut but wit three folds. how the heck do ya get em off? or do you just trash em and trow em out?
Torx my friend. Its a torx screw. Might be full of crap like most are
Old Sep 14, 2013 | 05:11 PM
  #35380  
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
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OK I charged the battery up because it was at 12.2. When it finished charging it was at 12.6. Once I disconnected the charger after it went back down to 12.2 after 10 minutes
Old Sep 15, 2013 | 10:09 AM
  #35381  
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From: Middletown, Maryland
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Ok here is a wierd one.. last night I left my lights on for about 2 hours and it drained my battery to where it just barely wouldn't start.

No jumper cables so I had to bump start it. Worked fine but it did that stupid **** where you have to keep your foot on the gas till the ECM relearns the idle speed...

well since then it is idling very low at 500 rpm or less and the voltage on the dash reads about 12 regardless of RPM even after a hard drive for about 10 miles.

Alternator is less than a month old and all connections are good. It ran perfect before last night and voltage was just above 14 on the drive to where I left the lights on.
Old Sep 15, 2013 | 11:19 AM
  #35382  
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From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by KG8893
Ok here is a wierd one.. last night I left my lights on for about 2 hours and it drained my battery to where it just barely wouldn't start.

No jumper cables so I had to bump start it. Worked fine but it did that stupid **** where you have to keep your foot on the gas till the ECM relearns the idle speed...

well since then it is idling very low at 500 rpm or less and the voltage on the dash reads about 12 regardless of RPM even after a hard drive for about 10 miles.

Alternator is less than a month old and all connections are good. It ran perfect before last night and voltage was just above 14 on the drive to where I left the lights on.
Get a battery charger on the battery
Old Sep 15, 2013 | 12:58 PM
  #35383  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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I CAN"T FIND THE POST WITH PHOTOS THAT SOMEONE MADE REGARDING REPAIRING THE FUEL TANK SENDING UNITS> Frickin sticky caps locks.
Old Sep 15, 2013 | 03:49 PM
  #35384  
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From: Alpharetta, Ga
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 Cylinder 4.0
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Where can I find a replacement 2001 jeep cherokee limited chrome emblem?
Old Sep 15, 2013 | 04:35 PM
  #35385  
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From: Marshfield, Missouri
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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ok so today I finished cleaning up the jeep a bit. took it out for a drive enjoying the day. I noticed this super high piched whine when I throttle. I mean like dog whistle time whine. but only at a certain point then when I would increases the throttle it went away back to a coast and it comes back. almost like a ringing of the ears noise... any idea what could cause it? I cant seem to pin point the noise.

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