Haha i know i know its bad!

 

just wanted to say i got my 88 overheating problem fixed!!!
thanks to everyone on here who answered my questions.
i checked the water pump it was fine,
changed the thermostat.
and changed lower radiator hose.
but it turned out to be my egr valve.

now another question, my trackbar (everything is stock, no lift.. yet) was bad and the guy told me the will go bad about once a year, is this true? or is there a aftermarket setup to help?

 

Just out of curiosity... how did an EGR valve cause overheating?

This guy you talked to is a moron. My wife's Jeep has an OEM track bar on it that's 15 years old and is still in fine shape.

If you intend to lift it in the near future I'd suggest going ahead and getting an adjustable trackbar since you'll need a new one anyway.

 

it was stuck and it caused it to idle wrong which caused a chain of events that led to overheating it took me 3 hours to locate problem and i took it to are mech to have a assured opinion (the mech wouldnt screw us actually does damn good work for a fair price) i left it with him for 30 mins and he agreed it was the egr valve causing a mishap of issues.

and thanks, i do plan on lifting i will look into the adjustable track bar now.

 

Hey Everyone,
I am at my wits end. Hoping someone can help me figure this out. I think it could be a couple of things...
Ok, I have a 2000 Cherokee 4.0... I've been having cooling issues with the car for a while. (PO was a little lax with the upkeep.) The car has been running ok, warmed up fine, and as long as the car was moving, stayed at a decent temp (just around 210). Sitting in traffic, it would creep up, fan would kick on, it would hover and still go higher, but slowly. When I started moving, it would drop down again. I've been driving with the heat on to help with the cooling (Its been really hot down here). It's been fine for jaunts around town, and some highway driving if there's no traffic... Friday I decided to flush the coolant since it was looking pretty yucky. Drained, flushed, changed thermostat and refilled. Went to burp it and the vent blows, but there's no heat. It takes a while to start warming up, but then the temp just keeps creeping up. Before the fan even comes on, I have to shut the car off and the overflow bottle is boiling over. It has done this a few times. Could it be an air bubble in the heater core? Water pump? (It looks like I still have good coolant flow) The dreaded cracked head? I have limited money, no other means of transportation and a limited amount of tools.
Here are the things that have been replaced already:
Radiator, Thermostat, thermostat housing, temp sensor, fan clutch, rad cap (though I'm not 100% that this one is definitely working)
Thanks for any input.

 

You said you did the fan clutch. Does the fan have a shroud? It's actually quite important.

Water pump should be done too. Never too much money spent on cooling system maintenance, especially on a 2000.

 

Fan has a shroud. I know I have to buckle down and do the water pump, I just need to get it running enough to get it to the parts store. Just took it for a short drive. Efan kicks on when its supposed to, but the temp just keeps going up. Shut it off before it got to 230*. This time I didn't have the overflow boil over, but did have some bubbling. There was alot of gurgling coming from the top rad hose and some noises coming from the rad cap. Top rad hose was hot and stiff, bottom rad was hot (though cooler than top rad hose) and stiff. Heater hoses finally hot to touch ( they were cold up to this point). Had the heat going full blast and its finally starting to feel warmer, where as yesterday it was just blowing cold.

 

4x4 Shift Lever Locked UP!

Got stuck in the sand while in 4H and engaged 4L, and wheels spun deeper, so stopped, dug out around wheels, and reversed my way out approximately 100 yards while in 4L.

Now 4X shift lever seems to be permanently locked and frozen in place, and doesn't freely won't to move. Had a really hard time just getting it back to 4H, from 4L.

Now it's stuck permanently in 4H, and WILL NOT move forward into 2W.

Had all fluids replaced within last 1000 miles. Don't want to drive all around town locked in 4H, but have no choice at this point.

Any suggestions to disengage?

 

Shifting it at speed or sitting still?

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I let off the gas, throw the lever, and then tap the gas and let off.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

 

How hard would it be just to swap it for the other one

 

Hmm. Possible your rad cap is defective. I just re-read your original post, I missed the bit about "boiling over before the fan comes on". Certainly suspicious.

I hope you've removed your front driveshaft before driving around on pavement in 4H or you're going to have more problems than the shifter.

As for the shifter, you're going to need to crawl underneath and find out why it's binding. Clear away the crap and lube everything you see. If you don't see anything obvious pop the linkage off of the small bar attached to the transfer case and see if you can move that by hand.

A few screws and the snap-in lit bezel.

 

Anyone know how to make a perfectly round 3" hole without a holesaw?

 

Linear shaped charge.

 

I wish lol