place a 3 inch extension with one end of the extension on the edge of the axle and the other end against wheel hub. turn the wheel to pop the hub off.




There are a few reasons why i don't like this though...
1) your extension may turn into a lethal projectile
2) extreme stress on steering components
3) i've never actually gotten it to work. If it doesn't pop off right away with minimal effort turning the wheel, then forcing it will just break things IMO.

 

Thanks. I checked part numbers but sometimes thats not a very good method.

 

I just bought a new battery. Maybe the alternator then.
It was on all day on friday, but hasnt come on again since then. Thanks again dukie.

 

I have the RE 3.5 lift. Which gave 4.5 in the front. And since my back shackles were from the lift I had on it before, it's at 5.5. I bought a 1 inch coil spacer to even the front out.

But I'm thinking, when we did the lift we did the track bar relocation. What effect would this 1 inch have on that? Will the axle become off center?

 

Hey all- my fan will start and stop randomly- when idling, while driving and it sounds very rough... any ideas? Maybe they are happening b/c of eachother, but the car is idling rough now too all of the sudden. 99 Jeep Cherokee Classic. Appreciate y'all's help!

Best,
Christian

--Sorry, I clicked the wrong link. Wrong forum, wouldn't let me delete. Apologies all.

 

I don't need that grey sticker do I? It keeps getting in my way lol. It just looks like it's there to contain wires but I only have a few wires running back there so it seems pointless.

 

if your refering to the inner door plastic its there for a reason i'm sure but hell if i know what that is.
i have noticed that without it there my old rig was really drafty

 

I'll leave it for now then... But I plan on putting some dynamat in its place.

 

It's there to help insulate & primarily to keep water, dust & moisture away from your wires & electronics (if you have any). The door panel does not do that. If you decide you don't want it, remove it carefully & send to me. I might be able to make it work for my '92.

 

The other end goes against the yoke.
It works better if you leave the brakes on and brake.

 

trust me you will want to keep that... its better then dymat

 

Hello all,
I have just recently started to have a misfire issue with my 4.0 and after exhausting all options to externally fixing the problem and doing a compression test across all cylinders have determined I have a bad valve in the first cylinder. My father in-law said he could get me a good deal on a head so my thoughts are to just swap the head out.
My question is there anything else I should look for or be aware of when I pull the head and are there any tips, tricks or helpful hints any one can give so I can try and get this done in a weekend with little or no issues and problems. Also any materials that would be a good idea to replace when doing this, ie gaskets, seals nuts and bolts.

 

A valve and it's spring/seal can be replaced with the head on the engine in a few hours, so i'm not sure it would be worth it to replace the entire head just for that.

If you do replace it you will need a new head gasket, valve cover gasket, intake/exhaust manifold gasket, thermostat housing gasket, replacement coolant, and new head bolts if the existing ones are marked with paint (meaning they were removed once before - they can only be reused once).

 

Even for keeping sound in/out? Or is dynamat just not good for keeping it dry and dust free.

 

dynamat is a sound deadener and insulation
it'll keep your sound in and road noise out
same as heat in cold out, you get where i'm going
however it's not touted as a moisture barrier or absorber
dust and water protection would be as simple as cleaning or replacing window or door seals