Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 0
From: Hayward, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
anyone?
Registered Users
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 764
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, Maryland
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
Whenever I hit a bump pretty hard ( i.e. pot hole, steep bridge joint ) the whole vehicle shakes violently with the bump, and sometimes jerks in a random direction at the same time. What could be causing that? I'm assuming shocks, but it could be something else. Never owned a Jeep til now so I don't know much about them.
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: Independence, MO
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Whenever I hit a bump pretty hard ( i.e. pot hole, steep bridge joint ) the whole vehicle shakes violently with the bump, and sometimes jerks in a random direction at the same time. What could be causing that? I'm assuming shocks, but it could be something else. Never owned a Jeep til now so I don't know much about them.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,209
Likes: 3
From: st.george utah
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 4.0
Buy a new trac bar from RC for 100$ The majority of DW issues are trac bar related.
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Tucson
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yea i have already looked into that, was just tryin to save myself 90 bucks when im just gonna wire up a ignition button anyways, and really dont have experience with ignition stuff, new to that end of the jeeps
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: Independence, MO
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
where are the most common places for a renix 4.0 to leak oil from? i'm already fairly certain that its not my rear main seal.
i have oil on my dist. cap, 4,5,6 plug wires, the top of the VC is wet w/oil, it leaks enough to leave a few small (by small i mean less than 1" in dia) under it over night... in random places.
i have oil on my dist. cap, 4,5,6 plug wires, the top of the VC is wet w/oil, it leaks enough to leave a few small (by small i mean less than 1" in dia) under it over night... in random places.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 0
From: Hayward, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
answer from Randys Ring and Pinion - the spacer should have the cup opening toward the hub of the axle with the smaller diameter opening toward the cross shaft
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: FBI
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5l TBI
Is this a MPI or TBI 4-banger?
When the pump keeps running it is usually because it is not able to make the pressure get high enough - so keeps running to try harder.
Blockage in pump / tank / filter might be worth looking at - as might be checking the ouput from the pump. Other thing to check is the regulator mounted on the fuel rail/TB. If the regulator has a damaged diaphragm then the pump will never reach pressure unless the regulator is replaced (or temorarily de-glitches itself).
The ballast resistor IS bypassed during cranking, and since it seems to be running fine once started i don't think the issue lies there.
The relay is in play here also - if it is stuck open it would cause the pump to run continuously.
First thing i would do is run a fuel pressure test. If it's a TBI, fuel pressure should be at 14.5psi at idle.
When the pump keeps running it is usually because it is not able to make the pressure get high enough - so keeps running to try harder.
Blockage in pump / tank / filter might be worth looking at - as might be checking the ouput from the pump. Other thing to check is the regulator mounted on the fuel rail/TB. If the regulator has a damaged diaphragm then the pump will never reach pressure unless the regulator is replaced (or temorarily de-glitches itself).
The ballast resistor IS bypassed during cranking, and since it seems to be running fine once started i don't think the issue lies there.
The relay is in play here also - if it is stuck open it would cause the pump to run continuously.
First thing i would do is run a fuel pressure test. If it's a TBI, fuel pressure should be at 14.5psi at idle.
cleaned out the fuel filter, blew it out so thats clean.
the pump still runs continuously. idles fine, but bogs out when i fully let the clutch out while in gear.
so in 1st gear, i can get it going, but as soon as i fully let out the clutch, it bogs out, and chokes to death
if i push the clutch back in it recovers and will idle all day.
couldnt change the fuel pressure because where the torx bolt is supposed to be under the regulator
is just a round hole, with what looks like the lead ball you are supposed to stick in to seal it up.
heres the instructions from the FSM. step 3 talks about the lead ball. how can i get that out? or do i need a new regulator?
and can i test the pressure at the pump itself or do i need to do it at the throttle body like the FSM says?
from the FSM:
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
WARNING: Always relieve residual fuel pressure in fuel delivery
system before opening system. To prevent chance of personal
injury, cover fittings with shop towel while disconnecting
fittings.
1) Replacement fuel pressure regulator must be adjusted to
establish correct pressure. Remove air filter elbow and hose. Connect
tachometer leads to diagnostic connector D1, attaching negative lead
to terminal D1-3 and positive lead to terminal D1-1. See Fig. 4.
Remove screw plug and install fuel pressure test fitting.
NOTE: Fuel pressure test fitting is not included with throttle
body. Fitting (8983 501 572) must be obtained separately.
2) Connect fuel pressure gauge to test fitting. Start engine
and increase speed to approximately 2000 RPM. Turn Torx head screw at
bottom of regulator to set correct pressure. Turning screw inward
increases pressure and turning screw outward decreases pressure. See
Fig. 3.
3) All models require fuel pressure of 14.5 psi (1.0 kg/cm �� ).
Install lead sealing ball to cover regulator adjustment
screw after adjusting fuel pressure. Turn ignition off. Remove
measuring equipment and test fitting. Install original plug screw and
air filter assembly.
starting to think its the relay, because i get the same story when its removed. i know the ballast resistor is bypassed during start up but where is it at on the 4 cylinder? its not in the engine bay.
not sure if its related, but after i took out the fuel filter and put it back in, my temp gauge is going berzerk and spinning in circles now.
any ideas? guess i can't do much until i get the pressure tested. thanx for the suggestions though, its much appreciated.
oh and all renix 4 cylinders are TBI by the way