yeah the fuse for that would be in the kick-panel, if the fuses are good then the motor is probably toast

thats not a bad radiator for the price, but the best radiators for XJs and most applications are aluminum 2-row radiators. There's no reason that an OEM equivalent replacement radiator wouldn't get the job done for you.

I have a 91 with the 4.0, a stock temp 195 degree thermostat and a stock radiator and sitting in stop & go traffic in 100 degree weather with the aux fan running it NEVER gets above 210.

Why would he have to swap the tailshaft on the transmission? Its always been my understanding that you can just take the tail-cone off of any 2wd AX15 or AW4 transmission in an XJ and the appropriate transfercase will bolt up. The nice thing about it is you can do the 4wd swap in stages, and if you do things the right way it can be done for UNDER 300 bones.(I got my current front axle for $100, and I picked up a spare transfercase with 79,000 miles for $50)

 

Never mind, I found the correct size on the sticker on the door jamb.

(For future searchers, mine calls for a 215/75R15 tire.)

 

ew. get the "XJ standard" 235/75/15 instead.

 

It has 235/70R15s on it right now, which have a 7.4" tread (approximately). 215/75R15s are pretty much the same height, but only about 6" wide, which should stop better on packed snow.
I agree that 235/75R15s would look better, but right now I'm more concerned with stopping than looks.

 

I believe its 235/75 r15. but i wouldnt bet my life on it.

 

I don't see why the 215s would stop better on packed snow than 235s.

I have 31x10.50R15s on my XJ and from 35 in packed snow if I lock up all 4 tires I stop quick enough to lock up the seat belt ratchets.

I'd go with the 235s, they're wider so you'll get better traction in most situations.

 

Hey guys, im a newb!! i have a 94 cherokee sport, it was a basket-case that i bought not running. The guy i got itt from was gonna build it to wheel,then took on another project (he had like 3 cherokees, a wagoneer, and a commado) this one i picked up for 300 bucks and he gave me an engine for it as well, problem im having is there were wires cut from the starting/charging side of the harness, i bought a partial(alt starter side) of the harness from a guy parting out a 94, but am having a hard timelocating where all my connections go/ end up. Ive looked online, and googled, but cant find any images to help, haynes manual is worthless, plus too boot, i have a long set of wires (3 or 4) that come off the main part of the harness that have the end clipped off, its also accompanied by what looks like three ground wire, if thats any help. Sorry for the cluster f***. Guess im in a little over my head for my first jeep! Any pics or info would help and be very appreciated!!!

 

I will recheck the vac lines[ again. I kinda figured on replacing the manifold gskt. Its about 15 degrees here so that may have to wait. I just needed affirmation that I was on the right track. Back to the garage! Thanks dukie! QUOTE=dukie564;779195]You need to check ALL of the vacuum lines - don't forget the one going to the brake booster. Disconnect them one at a time - the one that doesn't affect your idle speed is the culprit.

It could be you have a bad manifold gasket and it just needs to be replaced. Tightening it will only help so much. Also check the throttle body gasket for leaks. Is the butterfly closed all the way at idle?[/QUOTE]

 

I wonna do a 4 1/2 in rustys lift on my 99 cherokee 2 door sport and was wondering if i would have to long arm it

 

no but it wont hurt. im running at 5 with short arms and they do great. but long arms will be that much better so i hear. im not a believer yet

 

My Radiator is leaking from the passenger side....

 

i'm confused what that has to do with anything?

If you're feeling really cheap, go to the JY find the radiator in the best condition you can and take that home. $20 says it'll do the job just fine.

 

My jeep is bad in my parking gear the shifter i have to keep wiggling and it will start but then i can shake the steering wheel and it will do the same and start up if anybody knows hit me back ( i now about the neutral switch and the ground for your streeing wheel could it be both or what)

 

I think it may be my track bar working like a spring. I have new 31BFgs and just had the front lined up. This started when I put a 3in pro comp lift on it. I have tried every thing exept change the track bar it has a curve and I think its working like a spring. It starts at about 45 and stops around 50. What do you all think ??

 

The track bar wouldn't be bending. Most likely your busings are worn out. Watch your front end while someone turns the wheel. If the body moves side to side before the wheels turn, your trackbar bushings need replacement. You may also have play in the other joints, or at the pitman arm - pay attention for movement.