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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 04:31 PM
  #2251  
Makarov's Avatar
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From: Central KY
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Four Point Slow
Default Noisy suspension

hey guys I have a new question. My 99 sport has a 3 inch Skyjacker lift, with new springs and lower control arms and skyjacker shocks. Anyway, I practically baby my jeep and only go offroad to hunt, camp, or work on the farm. Most of my "offroading" is simply driving down a logging road or over an open field. Anyway, when my jeep leaves the pavement, I notice a lot of knocking and banging in the front end. It only does it on "rough" (heh) terrain. I crawled up underneath it and couldn't find anything loose... any ideas? Kind of a noob question but asking will be a lot easier than replacing parts at random. Thanks.
Old Dec 9, 2010 | 05:26 PM
  #2252  
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If I have a tc207 will a tc 242 bolt directly up?
Old Dec 9, 2010 | 07:01 PM
  #2253  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by Makarov
hey guys I have a new question. My 99 sport has a 3 inch Skyjacker lift, with new springs and lower control arms and skyjacker shocks. Anyway, I practically baby my jeep and only go offroad to hunt, camp, or work on the farm. Most of my "offroading" is simply driving down a logging road or over an open field. Anyway, when my jeep leaves the pavement, I notice a lot of knocking and banging in the front end. It only does it on "rough" (heh) terrain. I crawled up underneath it and couldn't find anything loose... any ideas? Kind of a noob question but asking will be a lot easier than replacing parts at random. Thanks.
Exhaust banging off the transmission crossmember?
Old Dec 9, 2010 | 07:11 PM
  #2254  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Default

Originally Posted by justintime
If I have a tc207 will a tc 242 bolt directly up?
no it won't, unless it's an older (pre 1990) np242. Spline count of your tranny needs to match the TC. (manual = 21 spline, auto = 23 spline).

I'd look into a np231 swap - it would be far more straightforward.
Old Dec 9, 2010 | 07:22 PM
  #2255  
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From: Kelseyville,CA
Year: 1983 yota
Model: Cherokee
Engine: SBC 350
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well on the transfer case thing he wants one of mine both outa 89s auto same configuire on both i6 with aw4
Old Dec 9, 2010 | 07:38 PM
  #2256  
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mine is a 5spd, hmmm
Old Dec 9, 2010 | 09:21 PM
  #2257  
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From: Central KY
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Four Point Slow
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Originally Posted by dukie564
Exhaust banging off the transmission crossmember?
I think I found it. The sway bar bushings are so mushy that I can wiggle the sway bar with my hands. Gonna put new ones on it and hopefully fix the problem. Now I REALLY feel like a noob.
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 08:17 AM
  #2258  
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should i disconnect alt. and or battery before mig welding?
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 08:28 AM
  #2259  
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Default

Originally Posted by vwjohnboy
should i disconnect alt. and or battery before mig welding?
It's not required but absolutely a good idea to protect it from spikes.
If you disconnect the negative, jumper it to the positive terminal to prevent the main line from just floating. Personally i would take the entire battery out, and jumper the two terminals together to ground everything out.

What is more important is proper placement of the return/work lead. I have seen cars repaired where someone grounded a welder to the frame then welded the exhaust. As the exhaust is rubber mounted and then usually bolted to engine with rusty bolts, the only return path is though the oxy senor and the ECU. This type of issue is main cause of damage due to welding
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 08:28 AM
  #2260  
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If surge-suppressor is not available then yes, disconnect the power system (both pos and neg). Surge protection is recommended in order to protect electronics from transient electrical "spikes" generated while drawing a welding arc.
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 08:44 AM
  #2261  
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Originally Posted by D_Conrad
hey guys i cant get my rear hatch to unlock, any ideas? or a way i can get it open?
How's your tailgate issue going? I'm interested in your results as I had an (almost) similar situation. The tailgate latch on my '99 would not release, especially after being in direct sunlight for a period of time. At first, I'd either let it cool-off in the shade or lean against the gate (to remove pressure from the latch) and pull the handle to effect release. This process got more difficult as time went by so I went into the gate to perform linkage "surgery". After observing the operating geometry, I ended-up adding shim stock between the handle body and the door surface. That worked for another two years and then it all failed again. Next time-in, I pulled the trim panel and drilled a clearance hole for a DIY internal release pull-tab attached to the linkage (a real "Rube Goldberg" fix using heavy tie-wraps). Now when it happens I simply reach in from the back seat, tug the tab and pop 'er open! Almost the same procedure for making old Bessy give... (but that's a story for another time).
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 08:53 AM
  #2262  
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From: west babylon,ny
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default backspacing?

this has probably been asked before, but i am unclear to what is backspacing? is it the offset of the rim?
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 09:06 AM
  #2263  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Default

Originally Posted by nyxj
this has probably been asked before, but i am unclear to what is backspacing? is it the offset of the rim?
This should clear things up. The less backspace, the more the wheel will stick out.
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 09:35 AM
  #2264  
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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got another one for you guys.. my e-brake works but the lever won't lock into place. I pull up the lever and it just clicks all the way back down. Is this a simple adjustment and can it be done without removing the center console?

and speaking of backspacing, isn't too little going to destroy wheel bearings? What's considered practical? I've been looking at v-5s and would like then to poke from under the jeep a little bit.

Last edited by BOOMroasted; Dec 10, 2010 at 09:37 AM.
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 09:42 AM
  #2265  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Default

Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
got another one for you guys.. my e-brake works but the lever won't lock into place. I pull up the lever and it just clicks all the way back down. Is this a simple adjustment and can it be done without removing the center console?

and speaking of backspacing, isn't too little going to destroy wheel bearings? What's considered practical? I've been looking at v-5s and would like then to poke from under the jeep a little bit.
Either a spring has come undone or is work out, or the locking pawl is broken. Either way you need to take it apart to fix it.

***EDIT***
Never mind, looks like the parking brake assembly in one piece on a '98. Whole thing needs to be replaced. Sorry. Grab one from the local JY - only three screws hold it hown.

Last edited by dukie564; Dec 10, 2010 at 09:55 AM.



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