The little metal tag is missing, any other way of checking the gear ratio? Would a 4.10 ratio be too much for the 2.5l. It is my DD and I would like the best acceleration and top speed possible since I drive highways and freeways daily.

 

We can't tell you what is right or wrong. It is mostly personal preference, amount of armor, size of tire, weight of tire, original ratio, and desired outcome. I don't know why size tire you're running. You can count the number of teeth on the ring gear and pinion gear and then divide ring/pinion and that will tell you your ratio then go from there. If you're going to regear, you might as well ditch the dana 35 no use putting all that money into it.

 

even if I don't plan on doing any extreme off-roading or rock crawling? Where I live dirt fields is the only thing I have nearby. Dirt bike trails outside the city. Anything else would be a mission to get to. Or is the d turdy 5 that bad?

ive been airborne all 4's off the ground (accidentally) and flew thru the air a few feet had the back end pop up and slam down hard and if anything the leafs seem to have taken the real beating. Have some sag in them now. Stock set up with horrible flex, front end slide off a rock and launched the back end in the air, bumper kissed the ground. for my intentions I haven't had an issue with it yet, and that's about as extreme as I can go without going real far out of the way. Can't post the video but there. Doesn't look steep because the camera man was on a downward sloped hill looking up. But it was 60-70 degrees

 

Electrical question, probably dumb. Built an aux fuse box a la BleepinJeep style. Problem is the way I did it limits thread room on the two input posts. I have a ~ 1/8" thick piece of steel that I wanted to use as a bridge of sorts. Three holes in the bridge: two that go over the fuse box studs, and one to connect the new battery cable to. Will this work and support the amperage? See my ****ty phone drawing for a visual. Thanks!

 

You need to research re fearing more instead of trying to get us to explain everything to you and pick the gears you "need", there are many factors in gear ratios. Mostly, what ratio you start with, what tire size you start with, what tire size you go to and then do the math to see what equals the same ratio of gear to tire size. My
Jeep came with 3.55 gear, I swapped to 4.56 with 31s and had tons of acceleration, but it was screaming on the highway, put some 33s on it and it's better at highway now, but lost some acceleration. There's no gear set that will give you acceleration and top speed. You have to find what compromise works for YOU. You say you run highways, well highways for me are 55 mph highways for others are 70 mph. Do you speed or go the speed limit? These are all questions only you know the answer to. Google your butt off. That's what I did when I was researching gear ratios. I don't mean to sound rude, but you don't seem ready for paying someone to regear, let alone helping your uncle regear it. It doesn't seem you have the concept and education on the matter to go drop $500 or more on gears for the front and rear axle, or drop $1000+ paying someone to do it. Regearing is something you only want to do once, so make sure you understand it all and get it right, because it's not cheap. There is tons of information on the internet about it you just need to sit down and do some googling. Hopefully that will help you understand it a little better then we might be able to answer more specific questions versus these random, very vague questions that we are trying to help with.

 

2.5's normally coming with 4.10's to begin with.... one of the reasons why c8.25 axles and HP d30's out of 97-99 2.5 liters are so coveted.

 

How about the tag on the front?

You could always pull the cover and service it!!

The ratio numbers are on the ring gear.

 

x2 on that... never know the last time that diff fluid was changed. May as well fill it with fresh oil.

 

my transfer case drain bolts were stuck and by trying to remove them i got them stripped pretty bad. i decided to replace for a couple male hex drain plugs looking like this one : https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wc...0_pri_larg.jpg

it includes the gasket which feels like paperboard, it's not rubber or plastic or steel that's for sure. well it started leaking after a week maybe.

i want to do it right when draining the tc so i can avoid wasting tranny fluid. i thought about using teflon tape on the threads, adding RTV with the gasket, adding RTV without the gasket. looking for advice, thanks!

 

hmmm, I serviced my t-case a few weeks ago. I do not recall there being any washer / gasket, as you call it, on the plugs. BUT, I have slept since then so....


If anything I'd think you'd want brass / copper????

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/im-...9/#post1669055

https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/OES7041048

First link you see a transfer case with the drain plugs i used. it's not the post i originally saw, but basically those drain plugs are not made for the transfer case, they just happen to be the same size and fit perfect. i used the supplied gasket but i figured it's probably not designed for tranny fluid. a couple threads mentionned this replacement and didn't seem to have any issues.

second link is the actual drain plug i used. gasket is not pictured.

if nobody has a suggestion, i'll go ahead and use teflon tape + blue loctite on the end of the plug and go from there.

 

Please don't use teflon tape on those... I swear that crap creates as many leaks as it stops. Plus do you really want little bits tearing off and getting swished around in bearings?

There's a thread sealant used on head bolts that would work well if you're having troubles. You could smear a VERY small amount of RTV around the upper threads, instead, if you wanted. Or get a tiny little piece of rubber and just cut a new gasket from it. Like an old inner tube.

 

thanks that's the kind of info i wanted to know. my plan wasn't to put tape on the whole plug, just the closest threads to the head so this way there's not much chance of getting it inside the transfer case itself.

i'll try the rtv first and go from there then.

 

On my 97 jeep cherokee sport i need help no dash lights or running lights cheaked all the fuses and connections i thought it was the new head light switch so i replaced it again

 

My lower rad hose blew out today while driving, the temp gauge never got passed 210 but when I got home I saw smoke. I popped the hood and smoke was pouring out from under the valve cover, turned the key back again and the needle was buried. Is there anything I should do besides new coolant and oil before I try to start it again? It is a 2000 so the whole head issue worries me.