MarkJRust

So I was troubleshooting one issue and did this...

I was rolling at 2-3 mph and I needed to get into 4LO.. Me being dumb I forgot to put my transmission into Neutral.. So I slide it from 4HI into the Neutral position on the TC, the I go to put it into 4LO.. GRIND GRIND. **DANG IT**.... I go to put it back into 4HI.. GRIND GRIND.

Crap.

I put it into park and a grind (that sounds different from the others) happens and starts off high and slows down: GRRRRRRIIIIiiiiiiinnnnnnddddd.. (I do this twice in different combinations) when I hear the grind I throw it out of park so it stops.

I grab the owners manual to double check my stupidity, and it says its possible to switch out of 4LO/Neutral Position with the engine off and the trans in neutral. I do that and place the TC handle in the 4HI position. I turn the engine over and BOOM it throws the handle in the neutral position again.

After grinding a couple more times I finally hop out of the car and start pushing in neutral, as it's rolling I reach in and drop it in 2WD.

I know, I messed this one up. I'M ASKING:

How many times can I grind these mating teeth before things start going south, and what the h*ll was the grind when I put the trans in park!?

VTJeep

That can be linked to ignition, in some cases.. Sounds kinda like an electric motor grinding? If that makes sence.. Or was it full metal on metal grind?

Edit- it could be linkage related, something not lining up properly. I accidentally put an older TC from 4wd to 2wd while rolling at like 10mph...XJ bent or dislodged something because now you have to crawl underneath and manually assist lever while someone in cab shifts the lever... Not broken, just needs adjustment. Hopefully you're in same boat... Not that those gears like to be ground.. Ever..

MarkJRust

It was metal on metal everytime, to my knowledge.

CCKen

Grinding in Park is odd. With the transmission in Park the Park Pawl should lock the transmission geartrain and prevent any rotational output from the transmission output shaft to the TC, and with the vehicle stationary there would be no TC internal rotational input from the wheels. There's no reason this should happen...unless the Park Pawl is not fully engaging an the transmission output shaft is actually turning (this, of course, is with the engine running).

You could have multiple problems. Transmission Park Pawl (?) and, like VTJeep said, your linkage may be out of adjustment.

The TC won't tolerate teeth grinding. You'll need to drain the TC oil into a clean drain pan and look for metal in the oil. I had to replace my 242 because it was making noise and the TC oil was full of metal. I changed the oil in my TC four times trying to flush out the metal but it kept coming back. I only had teeth grind once.

MarkJRust

Well, it looks like I'm going to be draining the fluid this weekend.

I don't know why it grinded while going into park either (but I currently have my interior apart and can see the little notch thing pop up as I place it into park so it's not broken off)

I will also check the linkage, does anyone know of a good write up location for that one?

lilredxj99

What happened was this.... when you left it in drive and threw the tcase into neutral, the transmissions output shaft started to spin. The only thing to do at that point would have been to turn off the engine, and then try to get the tcase back into the selected range.

Even when with the transmission in neutral, you have to be fast when you go in and out of 4LO or the transmission will start to spin just because of internal drag.

I would recommend draining the tcase. When you threw it in park, the output shaft was spinning. That was the parking pawl ratcheting on the park gear. It should not have hurt it because it is spring loaded.

GM (during R&D) used to test the parking pawls in their auto trans by running it at 55mph and shoving it in park.... do not recommend doing this in any vehicle you own.

MarkJRust

Okay, say I drain the TCase and I get some metal bits (how much would be an alarming amount?) Also I'll probably buy some extra bottles and flush the system with clean fluid.

I'm nervous...

MarkJRust

Well I'm just the dumbest person in the world right now..

I was practicing (the right way) getting in and out of 4LO. I did it twice successfully and then on the third try (getting out of 4lo) I was in drive. GRINDDD. Put it in neutral and got out and started pushing again... that's the last time I do anything without having the transmission indicator in place...

I'm definitely changing the fluids out now.. GOD I'm so dumb...

Wish me luck that I don't have too many bits in there from pushing the handle while in drive..

Gee oh Dee

Some Jeep manuals say your suppose to me moving very slightly before going into 4 low.

My wifes TJ grinds going into 4low when its in neutral and were not moving slightly.

And, again, the manual suggests slight movement...the manual.

MarkJRust

Yeah, I've just did it the past times while moving slightly.

But I'm just worried about the damage i've done while pushing the TCase handle up/down while in drive and grinding up the gears.

I've gotta swap the fluids and get any metal (hopefully there is very little) out of there the best I can.

MarkJRust

Can anyone hazard a guess at the likelyhood that I'll need a new transfer case? Referring back to CCKen's post...

Rustydog555

When you put it in park with the engine running and t-case in neutral it's like you were rolling when you put it in park (turn engine off next time) park gear not in t-case e gears in the case are all spinning and don't grind it's the shifter fork/ keys making that grinding

Rustydog555

If it goes in gear and drives it likely ok draining the t-case and checking for scraps couldn't hurt But in my opinion and real life experience that little case will take an *** whooping and keep on ticking

CCKen

After you get your shift bezels back in place so you can see what gear you're in, leave it in 2WD.

Tips on changing TC oil...if you're not familiar with the process:

1. Always remove the Fill Plug First, then the drain plug.

2. Get enough quarts of the ceapest DexIII/Merc fluid from Advance auto parts or walmart to service the TC about 4 times.

3. If you still have the internal hex wrench plugs you'll need a 10MM hex bit/socket and a suitable wrench (breaker bar) to get them out. Remove the fill plug then the drain plug. Toss them away and get two plugs from NAPA, part number BK 7041048 to replace them with. (see pic - pic is of my NV242 but the 231 is the same)

4. Drain the TC oil into a clean drain pan and look for metal in the oil (under direct sunlight is best). The TC has a magnet in it to capture fuzz and other bits of steel. Chunks big enough to have part numbers on them won't be captured by the magnet There may be bronze floating around in the oil as well.

5. Refill the TC with around 2 pints of fluid. Then drive around the block to circulate the fluid through the TC oil pump and all the bearings. All these items will still be turning even in 2WD.

6. Drain again and check for metal. Drive around. Check and refill until all metal is gone.

7. Fill TC with a quality fluid. DexIII/Merc or ATF+4.

8. Install the NAPA drain plugs and torque to around 25 ft/lbs. The plugs require a 19 MM wrench for the hex head. Check for leaks after the first drive.

9. After about 200 miles of driving youmay want to drain the TC fluid again and check for metal.

Good luck.

MarkJRust

Thank you! I was gonna do a similar process but this is even better.