exhaust/intake manifold gasket install: dry, right? no rtv or anything? just clean really well?

also, where the exhaust manifold(s) meet the exhaust/precat setup on my 01, do i need to use copper gasket spray or something? And should i expect those bolts to break?

 

Just the cam sensor / pickup coil, not the entire distributor

 

You never said??....did it run well "before" you tuned it??..and another obvious point..No cat.=Limp home mode in the EMC..so it will never perform as well as it should without it (barring. a lot of $$ and many Hi Po modifications) ..basically you just xxxxxed yourself...

 

No RTV.

 

I disagree with the last statement.

He realized his error and corrected it.

Went and got the codes read and posted them up.

 

Yeah sorry gentlemen

 

I put an ignition pick up in it problem still persist

 

My 2cents..If you have any age at all on your manifolds, it would be a good idea, to use some sealant..Hi Temp Silicone should seal any "warp" on the manifold surface (usually from "over torqued" bolts) I always "Flat" my manifold surface with a very sharp (large) Flat File (Fine grade) or a Bench Belt Sander (if available). As for the "Down Pipe" connection ..I like to "soak" nuts &bolts well (overnight if possible) with "PB Blaster" or an equivalent penetrating oil, even then they might want to break..if you have a lift, you can heat them with a torch (I don't reccomend using tourch with Jack Stands or Ramp unless you have a high level of experience..Fire Hazard). On the install, again, Hi Temp Silicone (the goo of choice for "roundy round racers everywhere) it will seal any irregular surface issues and "chips" right off on future repairs. One more important thing..use "Anti Sieze" on the Exhaust nuts &bolts (Manifold to Head too) for a easier repair "down the road"

 

Some GM cars have flat manifolds, no gaskets. They spec a graphite dry lube to fill any imperfections, like the Lock lube, a few coats and it builds up pretty well. Aftermarket forums generally use Ultra Copper RTV instead.

 

Opps.. my bad..I read it that he did away with Cat. and installed Magna Flow muffler?? sorry..and as far as RTV..In a perfect world I agree with you..but..we are talking about a older 4x4 with a questionable service history..I have seen many warped, overtorqued, run with missing or broken bolts, and just generally abused Cherokee's...and most of them have had leaking manifolds and exhaust connections..a little RTV does wonders

 

Porsche uses a "membrane" sealant for Case halves..seen quite a few "metal to metal" applications myself..Have you ever seen the "Engine with NoGaskets" at the bigger Car Shows??...Runs all weekend with nothing but RTV for every gasket in engine...it's cool and really works..LOL

 

I used Copper Gasket spray on my manifold gasket. Re-checked the bolts a few weeks later, and its been good since.

 

I can tell you from experience...I shout for joy when I work on someone's Exhaust and the last guy used Anti-Sieze..cuts the project time 50-75%

 

Can you bleed brakes from where line bolts to caliper? We couldn't get the bleeder valve loose so we've been "gravity bleeding" the line by keeping cap off reservoir and not bolting line tight to caliper. Don't know if this is a thing or not, but will it have any effect? Fluid is slowly dripping out. Thanks all.

 

You won't be able to get all the air out that way but will get you home for proper fix. I don't know if they still carry them (I'm sure you can find on the Net) but NAPA used to carry a replacement Bleeder & Seat...snap off old Bleeder..very carefully drill out and Tap to seat size...Loctite seat..screw in firmly..let sit a moment..screw in Bleeder and proceeded