The downside of ATF:Acetone is you have to mix it very well every time you use it. It will quickly separate. I bought myself a spray bottle with a schrader air valve. ATF has a lot of detergents and does quickly penetrate into things. Also with the acetone the longer you leave it on the more it'll eat the rust.

Here's the progress so far....Liquid Wrench worked well. Working on the drivers side I was able to break loose all the bolts without snapping anything off (so far). I ended up dropping the shackle from the top bolt since the new bumper brace is in the way of removing the lower bolt. The front bolt has been a pain though. I was able to loosen it and it backed out about an inch. Thats when the inner sleeve contacted the mount and stopped the bolt from coming out the rest of the way. Using a 4" cutoff wheel I cut off the bolt next to the bushing hopeing I had unthreaded the bolt enough so that the leaf would drop out. But NOOOO. It's still in the bracket so I'm attacking with a sawzall tonight. Hopefully that will leave enough bolt to grip with pliers and finish removing it from the captive nut.

Thanks to indeepwithajeep for posting the comparison test. All I've ever used is Liquid Wrench (it's worked for me for 50 years so why experiment?) so it was nice to see it faired so well versus the other formulas.

ATF+acetone is outstanding. The best solution on the market is Aerokroil (often called Kroil), but it runs about $14/can

You can get kroil cheaper via the google deal

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

What are you using to turn the bolts?

About a week of soaking, a heat source (MAP torch), and a 2' breaker bar or a serious impact is a good starting point if you live in Rustville.

They are the right colors and yes the engine runs very strong

To some other products compared, both ATF & Acetone are especially nasty, keep it off your skin!

Quick question because I know a lot of you have encountered this. I just got new JEGS d windows 15x8 wheels in. These are lug centric. Are the stock wheel studs plenty capable of carrying this new load since they are no longer hub centric?

I've never had a problem, but I question how many of us still have factory lug nuts. As for strength, I bent three wheels (badly) when I rolled my XJ, but all the lug nuts and studs were fine

This is one time I'm glad to live in the desert. Rust isn't an issue with this Jeep. After soaking the bolts with Liquid Wrench I applied slow steady pressure using a 6-point socket and a 3' pipe on a 2' breaker bar. Whenever I heard chattering or groaning I applied a shot of Liquid Wrench, tightened the bolt a turn and then started backing it out again. It was slow but I successfully removed the upper and lower shackle bolts and loosened the front mounting bolt up to the point where the inner metal sleeve, which was rusted to the mounting bolt, contacted the outer mounting point. Then I had to break out the cut-off wheel. Eventually I removed the front mount without damaging the mounting bracket or the captive nut. All this just to get the drivers side leaf pack off.

After getting the pack off I bought new frame bolts and a tap to chase the threads in the captive nuts. $70 later and I'm still not done. Now the index pin on the bottom of the leaf pack is just a hair larger than the hole on the mounting plate so I'm heading off to borrow a Dremel to open the hole just a touch. It's always something.

So I just got my rugged ridge header in and there is no place to plug in the O2 sensor. is that right or do I have to drill into my brand new header? Can I just unplug the sensor or will it jack up the air to fuel ratio?

Does anyone have a part number for a serpentine belt that will fit while bypassing the A/C compressor? I dont want to empty the system or remove parts, just bypass that little bit of drag.

1990 laredo 4.0

The 90 only has one O2 sensor so you definitely need it. Sounds like you have a header for the 91 and up. My upstream O2 sensor is on the down pipe, yours I believe is on the header just above the fitting for the down pipe. I will defer to the Renix experts for possible workarounds but you do need it to run properly.

Keep in mind that the sender sits at a bit of an angle...

the tip facing you.

The outlets are different and there are no bungs for O2 or EGR tube.

Have a new downpipe made with an O2 sensor bung welded into ir as close to the header flange as you can. Have them use a shallow bung. You will have plenty of harness to reach the O2 sensor's new location.

Wow. That doesn't sound like a desert Jeep at all. That's almost exactly my experience, except I used a jack instead of a cheater pipe. Here they lay 1cm of salt when the forecast calls for 50% chance of 1cm snow.