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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 12:00 PM
  #34711  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2

I run a Gator Back belt. Good belts.
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Yep. Hard to source locally, but they sell them on Amazon.
Originally Posted by salad

Gatorback for the win
What they said. Gator kicks ***
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 08:05 PM
  #34712  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Okay, two questions today (hope I'm not over quota)

1. I have this D30 I got for free that I'm going to install. It was free for a reason. Got the axle shafts out, working on the ball joints. They're mostly seized, and based on the experience with trying to get one of the spindle nuts off I'm looking at the easy route. Is it okay to hack the balljoint in half? I mean cutting it between the axle C and the steering knuckle. I have plenty of cut-off wheels and not much patience for this stupid press. I know I'm not going to damage the axle but is there some risk in trying to cut the ball joint other than grease and the rubber boot? Or would I be seriously shooting myself in the foot? I figure its easier to work with smaller cut-up bits than trying to press it out of two seized fittings.

2. What in the hell is the proper transmission mount for a 1999 with an AX-15? I only have parts fiche for 1998 and 2000; I followed the diagram at factorychryslerparts.com but the part is listed for 2.5L models; I can't cross-reference the NAPA or Rock Auto part numbers; and Rock Auto doesn't have any hits for the '98 or '00 Mopar part numbers. What the ****

EDIT: I came up with DEA # A2625/ Anchor 2625

Last edited by salad; Aug 21, 2013 at 08:08 PM.
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 08:20 PM
  #34713  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by salad
Okay, two questions today (hope I'm not over quota)

1. I have this D30 I got for free that I'm going to install. It was free for a reason. Got the axle shafts out, working on the ball joints. They're mostly seized, and based on the experience with trying to get one of the spindle nuts off I'm looking at the easy route. Is it okay to hack the balljoint in half? I mean cutting it between the axle C and the steering knuckle. I have plenty of cut-off wheels and not much patience for this stupid press. I know I'm not going to damage the axle but is there some risk in trying to cut the ball joint other than grease and the rubber boot? Or would I be seriously shooting myself in the foot? I figure its easier to work with smaller cut-up bits than trying to press it out of two seized fittings.

2. What in the hell is the proper transmission mount for a 1999 with an AX-15? I only have parts fiche for 1998 and 2000; I followed the diagram at factorychryslerparts.com but the part is listed for 2.5L models; I can't cross-reference the NAPA or Rock Auto part numbers; and Rock Auto doesn't have any hits for the '98 or '00 Mopar part numbers. What the ****

EDIT: I came up with DEA # A2625/ Anchor 2625
I wish I could help you but those are some good questions.
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 08:22 PM
  #34714  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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It would be a pain to cut that balljoint... I guess it's doable but I don't know how seized they are. Try to get as much of the boot and grease out if you do that.


What do I need to do to replace the front output seal on my t case? It's leaking, not the star washer. Apparently that just keeps two parts from rubbing together.
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 08:32 PM
  #34715  
salad's Avatar
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
It would be a pain to cut that balljoint... I guess it's doable but I don't know how seized they are. Try to get as much of the boot and grease out if you do that.
1 whack of a 2 lb hammer = turns knuckle 1 degree. That's how seized lol. I have little hope they'll come out nicely. Getting at it's no problem.


Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
What do I need to do to replace the front output seal on my t case? It's leaking, not the star washer. Apparently that just keeps two parts from rubbing together.
I can't remember if the nut's reusable, but I'd suggest nut, the washers, seal, slot screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers. And some RTV on hand for when you knick the aluminum. You might be able to remove the seal without removing the output shaft by tapping where the seal sits on the end of the housing and prying it off around the edge.
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 08:36 PM
  #34716  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
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Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by salad

1 whack of a 2 lb hammer = turns knuckle 1 degree. That's how seized lol. I have little hope they'll come out nicely. Getting at it's no problem.

I can't remember if the nut's reusable, but I'd suggest nut, the washers, seal, slot screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers. And some RTV on hand for when you knick the aluminum. You might be able to remove the seal without removing the output shaft by tapping where the seal sits on the end of the housing and prying it off around the edge.
Damn lol. Cut that *****.

Know of a blow up diagram? Sounds like a PITA for this leak.
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:11 PM
  #34717  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Know of a blow up diagram? Sounds like a PITA for this leak.
Da Servise Manuel: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...Case_NP231.pdf
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:40 PM
  #34718  
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
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Has anyone here ever installed no lift shackle relocators or cut out the original shackle mount? I'm going to cut the ordinal mount to install HD Offroad shackle relocators and don't want to blow up cutting them out.
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:42 PM
  #34719  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
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Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by ccooper1234
Has anyone here ever installed no lift shackle relocators or cut out the original shackle mount? I'm going to cut the ordinal mount to install HD Offroad shackle relocators and don't want to blow up cutting them out.
What's the question?

I did them

XJ Ask the Question Thread-image-2936588619.jpg
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:43 PM
  #34720  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
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Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by salad
Thanks ensalada
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:44 PM
  #34721  
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
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Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94

What's the question?

I did them
Is it hard to cut the old ones out? I will be using a cut off wheel and it sparks a lot
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:53 PM
  #34722  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by ccooper1234

Is it hard to cut the old ones out? I will be using a cut off wheel and it sparks a lot
No it's not bad. The drivers side is harder from the gas lines. I just made one cut up the unibody rail and another up the rear bumper side and back towards the front the used channel locks to break it loose by bending it back and forth. Good choice going HD.
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:56 PM
  #34723  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94

No it's not bad. The drivers side is harder from the gas lines. I just made one cut up the unibody rail and another up the rear bumper side and back towards the front the used channel locks to break it loose by bending it back and forth. Good choice going HD.
I'll ductape a welding mat up next to the gas tank and lines, just incase. What did you paint the brackets with?
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:57 PM
  #34724  
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I wasn't worried about the sparks, I was worried about the wheel getting away from me and hitting the filler lines lol
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 10:01 PM
  #34725  
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Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
I wasn't worried about the sparks, I was worried about the wheel getting away from me and hitting the filler lines lol
Are they painted or powder coated?



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