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CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Okay, two questions today (hope I'm not over quota)
1. I have this D30 I got for free that I'm going to install. It was free for a reason. Got the axle shafts out, working on the ball joints. They're mostly seized, and based on the experience with trying to get one of the spindle nuts off I'm looking at the easy route. Is it okay to hack the balljoint in half? I mean cutting it between the axle C and the steering knuckle. I have plenty of cut-off wheels and not much patience for this stupid press. I know I'm not going to damage the axle but is there some risk in trying to cut the ball joint other than grease and the rubber boot? Or would I be seriously shooting myself in the foot? I figure its easier to work with smaller cut-up bits than trying to press it out of two seized fittings.
2. What in the hell is the proper transmission mount for a 1999 with an AX-15? I only have parts fiche for 1998 and 2000; I followed the diagram at factorychryslerparts.com but the part is listed for 2.5L models; I can't cross-reference the NAPA or Rock Auto part numbers; and Rock Auto doesn't have any hits for the '98 or '00 Mopar part numbers. What the ****
EDIT: I came up with DEA # A2625/ Anchor 2625
1. I have this D30 I got for free that I'm going to install. It was free for a reason. Got the axle shafts out, working on the ball joints. They're mostly seized, and based on the experience with trying to get one of the spindle nuts off I'm looking at the easy route. Is it okay to hack the balljoint in half? I mean cutting it between the axle C and the steering knuckle. I have plenty of cut-off wheels and not much patience for this stupid press. I know I'm not going to damage the axle but is there some risk in trying to cut the ball joint other than grease and the rubber boot? Or would I be seriously shooting myself in the foot? I figure its easier to work with smaller cut-up bits than trying to press it out of two seized fittings.
2. What in the hell is the proper transmission mount for a 1999 with an AX-15? I only have parts fiche for 1998 and 2000; I followed the diagram at factorychryslerparts.com but the part is listed for 2.5L models; I can't cross-reference the NAPA or Rock Auto part numbers; and Rock Auto doesn't have any hits for the '98 or '00 Mopar part numbers. What the ****
EDIT: I came up with DEA # A2625/ Anchor 2625
Last edited by salad; Aug 21, 2013 at 08:08 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Okay, two questions today (hope I'm not over quota)
1. I have this D30 I got for free that I'm going to install. It was free for a reason. Got the axle shafts out, working on the ball joints. They're mostly seized, and based on the experience with trying to get one of the spindle nuts off I'm looking at the easy route. Is it okay to hack the balljoint in half? I mean cutting it between the axle C and the steering knuckle. I have plenty of cut-off wheels and not much patience for this stupid press. I know I'm not going to damage the axle but is there some risk in trying to cut the ball joint other than grease and the rubber boot? Or would I be seriously shooting myself in the foot? I figure its easier to work with smaller cut-up bits than trying to press it out of two seized fittings.
2. What in the hell is the proper transmission mount for a 1999 with an AX-15? I only have parts fiche for 1998 and 2000; I followed the diagram at factorychryslerparts.com but the part is listed for 2.5L models; I can't cross-reference the NAPA or Rock Auto part numbers; and Rock Auto doesn't have any hits for the '98 or '00 Mopar part numbers. What the ****
EDIT: I came up with DEA # A2625/ Anchor 2625
1. I have this D30 I got for free that I'm going to install. It was free for a reason. Got the axle shafts out, working on the ball joints. They're mostly seized, and based on the experience with trying to get one of the spindle nuts off I'm looking at the easy route. Is it okay to hack the balljoint in half? I mean cutting it between the axle C and the steering knuckle. I have plenty of cut-off wheels and not much patience for this stupid press. I know I'm not going to damage the axle but is there some risk in trying to cut the ball joint other than grease and the rubber boot? Or would I be seriously shooting myself in the foot? I figure its easier to work with smaller cut-up bits than trying to press it out of two seized fittings.
2. What in the hell is the proper transmission mount for a 1999 with an AX-15? I only have parts fiche for 1998 and 2000; I followed the diagram at factorychryslerparts.com but the part is listed for 2.5L models; I can't cross-reference the NAPA or Rock Auto part numbers; and Rock Auto doesn't have any hits for the '98 or '00 Mopar part numbers. What the ****
EDIT: I came up with DEA # A2625/ Anchor 2625
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
It would be a pain to cut that balljoint... I guess it's doable but I don't know how seized they are. Try to get as much of the boot and grease out if you do that.
What do I need to do to replace the front output seal on my t case? It's leaking, not the star washer. Apparently that just keeps two parts from rubbing together.
What do I need to do to replace the front output seal on my t case? It's leaking, not the star washer. Apparently that just keeps two parts from rubbing together.
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I can't remember if the nut's reusable, but I'd suggest nut, the washers, seal, slot screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers. And some RTV on hand for when you knick the aluminum. You might be able to remove the seal without removing the output shaft by tapping where the seal sits on the end of the housing and prying it off around the edge.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
1 whack of a 2 lb hammer = turns knuckle 1 degree. That's how seized lol. I have little hope they'll come out nicely. Getting at it's no problem.
I can't remember if the nut's reusable, but I'd suggest nut, the washers, seal, slot screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers. And some RTV on hand for when you knick the aluminum. You might be able to remove the seal without removing the output shaft by tapping where the seal sits on the end of the housing and prying it off around the edge.
Know of a blow up diagram? Sounds like a PITA for this leak.
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 0
From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
Has anyone here ever installed no lift shackle relocators or cut out the original shackle mount? I'm going to cut the ordinal mount to install HD Offroad shackle relocators and don't want to blow up cutting them out.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 0
From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
No it's not bad. The drivers side is harder from the gas lines. I just made one cut up the unibody rail and another up the rear bumper side and back towards the front the used channel locks to break it loose by bending it back and forth. Good choice going HD.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 0
From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
I'll ductape a welding mat up next to the gas tank and lines, just incase. What did you paint the brackets with?
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 0
From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6





